Presentation on theme: "Introduction to Textile Fabric Part 2: Plain Knit"— Presentation transcript:
1 Introduction to Textile Fabric Part 2: Plain Knit Dr. Jimmy LamInstitute of Textiles & ClothingThe Hong Kong Polytechnic University
2 Content Basic Knit, tuck and miss loop in single knit fabrics. Characteristics of all knit loops (plain) fabric.Characteristics of knit + tuck single knit fabricCharacteristics of knit + miss single knit fabricAccordian fabric (knit + tuck + miss loops)
4 Basic Loops The single knit fabrics can be made of: All Knit loops Knit & miss loopsKnit & tuck loopsKnit & tuck & miss loops
5 Plain knit (All Knit loops) If a single knit fabric is composed entirely by knit loops, the fabric is called plain knit or jersey knit.
6 Plain Knit (Notation)The above loop diagrams indicate the face and back side of a plain knit.It consists of many loops of the same shape and is not easy to draw by hand; therefore, knitters use simple notation to represent different type of loops.X= technical face loop; O=technical back loop
7 Plain Knit General Features Plain knit fabrics are quite good in cover and elasticity and can be knitted by following machines:V-bed machinesCircular machines andFully fashion machines.The suitable gauges of knitting are from 2.5 to 36 needles per inch; that means the plain fabrics can be cover the whole range of fabric thickness, in which the fabric weights include 80 g/m2 for fine shirting to 600 g/m2 for heavy weight outwear.The yarn for plain knit fabrics can be unroved from both ends.
8 Plain Knit End UsesThe end uses of fabric mainly depend on the following:Material used;Yarn linear density or count;Machine gauge;Fabric thickness and weight; andType of finishing
9 Plain Knit ShirtingProduced on the finer gauge circular sinker top machine.Example: 28 gauge machine knitting 30Ne cotton or 150 Denier texturised polyester. Fabric weight is 100 g/m2The most common materials for shirting fabrics are:100% cotton;65/35 polyester/cotton blend; and100% texturised polyester filamentMost plain fabrics are piece dye. Yarn dyeing is only used for fabric with colour striping.
10 Plain Knit UnderwearThe machine gauge for underwear fabrics may be slightly coarser than those for shirting; this is gauge and yarn used are mainly cotton.All wool underwear fabrics are knitted on gauge machines which will give thicker fabrics for winter underwears
12 Plain Knit with Knit + tuck loop All knitted fabrics are formed by knit loop. Tuck loops alone can never be formed into a fabric.However, tuck loops are used for the following purposes:To produce colour patterns;To give open work or see through effect,To make raise effectTo make fabric ladder resist
20 Miss LoopMiss loop is called float or welt, is rather similar to tuck loop as it cannot be seen from the face side of fabric.The miss loop appears as short length of horizontal yarn at the back of single knit fabric
21 Characteristics of Miss Loop Invisible from the face of fabricWill reduce the fabric widthWill reduce the fabric heightWill reduce the fabric elasticityWill increase the fabric density
22 Application of Miss loop Miss loop is used for jacquard (colour design) single knit jersey knitting/It is used to hide the unwanted colours at the back of the fabric.Example: shirting fabrics for casual wearExample: sweater fabrics
23 Accordian fabricThis is single knit jacquard fabric with knit, tuck and miss loops on the same course.The knit and miss loops are for colour pattern knitting, while the tuck loops are used to tie-in the long floats at the back of the fabric and make the float lengths shorter.
24 Discussion Why fabric is narrower with insertion of float loop? Why fabric is wider with insertion of tuck loop?Why knit + tuck loops will never be used for underwear fabric?