1. Characteristics of Normal and Damaged Hair
Texture – This is the size or diameter of a single hair.
Course Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair

2. Porosity : The ability of the hair to absorb moisture
This is related to the condition of the hair and whether it has been chemically
treated (permed or coloured).
Porosity is all about the condition of the cuticle, which is the outside layer of the hair.

3. Resistant -The cuticle layer is tightly closed.
The hair looks shiny or glassy.
The hair is in good condition
Normal -The cuticle is slightly open.

4. Porous -The cuticle is more open.
The hair is a bit dull looking, and feels slightly rough.
The ends are dry possibly because of tinting, or a lot of exposure to sun and swimming.
Extremely Porous -The cuticle is very open and damaged. The hair is very dull and dry. Usually this hair is double processed. Eg: has had both a perm and tint. Or the hair is bleached.

5. FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR COLOUR

6. Melanin Melanin is the colour pigment granules of skin and hair.
Melanin is produced by special cells where the germinal matrix joins the papilla called melanocytes.

7. MELANIN NATURAL COLOUR PIGMENTS

8. Melanocytes
Melanocytes secrete melanin into cells of the hair shaft soon after they are formed to give hair its colour.

9. GERMINAL MATRIX

10. Factors affecting Hair Colour
Type of Melanin
Amount of Melanin
Position of Melanin
Heredity

11. Types of Melanin There are two types of melanin found in the hair:
Eumelanin (black & brown)
Pheomelanin (red& yellow)

12. EUMELANIN & PHEOMELANIN

13. Factors affecting Natural Pigment
Hereditary
The colour of our hair is influenced by our genetic background and racial backgrounds.

14. BLOND HAIR Mainly YELLOW pigments Small amount of brown
Tiny amount red & black

15. RED HAIR
Mainly RED & YELLOW pigments
Fewer brown & black

16. DARK BROWN HAIR
Contains more pigment
Equal mix of all types

17. Absence of Pigment in Skin and Hair
Canities
Is the result of a breakdown in normal pigment production in the melanocytes. Canities is hair that contains no pigment
( white hair) the melanocytes at the base of the follicle stop producing melanin.

18. Albinism
Tends to appear in certain families. Albinos have no pigment in their hair, skin and eyes, and because of this have a low tolerance to sunlight.

19. WHITE HAIR CANITIES- melanocytes cease production natural aging
ALBINISM –complete lack of pigment

20. Factors affecting CHEMICAL REFORMATION

21. Alkaline Perm Solutions
Ammonium Thioglycollate
(alkaline solution)
Ammonium Hydroxide
Swells and softens the hair
Opens the cuticle

22. +
Thioglycollic Acid
Penetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position.

23. Alkaline solutions are suitable for:
Resistant/hard to wave hair
Chemically untreated hair
Tinted or mildly porous hair

24. Acid perm solutions
The active ingredient in acid perms is glyceryl monothioglycolate PH

25. Glycerol monothioglycolate (acid perm solution)
Thioglycollic acid
Penetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position. +
Glycerine

26. ACID SOLUTIONS ARE SUITABLE FOR:
Sensitised or damaged hair
All hair textures particularly fine hair