Chapter 17 (2016 Edition) Hairstyling.

Chapter 17 (2016 Edition) Hairstyling

Hairstyling or dressing the hair
~ direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times Marie Antoinette to Flappers (1920’s & 1930’s) Modern or art deco

Necessity in learning long hair and styling techniques
Two fold: well-rounded skills-adapt to the individual needs of the client By mastering “hair dressing” *learn discipline *finger dexterity *manipulation of our hands

***Think retro-out of style today may be back tomorrow 1970’s 2010’s

Understanding these basic principles:
*build consistency *quality *confidence To approach any hairstyle

First step in the hairstyling process *look at magazines/portfolio
Client Consultation First step in the hairstyling process *look at magazines/portfolio *picture is worth a thousand words Take into consideration ~ face shape ~ hair type ~ lifestyle miniquehair.com/CONSULTATION.jpg

Be a creative problem solver
If you create a style that is both flattering and easy to manage, clients will be most loyal

Wet Hairstyling Basics
Tools: Combs Brushes Rollers Pins Clips Clamps (butterflys)

Finger Waving Shaping and directing the hair into an “S” pattern through the use of fingers, combs, and finger-waving lotion Teaches you the * technique of moving and directing the hair *training in molding the hair to the curved surface of the head *introduction to hairstyling

Finger Waving Lotion Gel that makes hair pliable, keeps hair in place Made from karaya gum Found in trees in Africa and India Good lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when it dries

Form Pin Curls Basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls Used in wide range of hairstyles *springy and long-lasting curls *with good direction and definition

Pin Curls Parts of a Curl Base-closest to the scalp Stem-between the base and the first arc ~ gives direction and movement Circle-forms a complete circle ~ size of circle determines the width of the wave and its strength

Mobility of a Curl Stem determines the mobility or movement No-stem curl: -placed directly on the base -produces tight, firm, long-lasting curl -minimum mobility Name the pin curls that have a no-stem curl.

Half-stem curl: -medium movement -placed half off base Name the pin curl with this stem. Full-stem curl: -greatest mobility -off the base -strong, definite direction (waves, not curl)

Shaping for Pin Curl Placements Open and Closed Center Curls
~ section is molded in a circular movement ***Ex. Maypoles Open and Closed Center Curls Open-smooth waves and uniform curls Closed-smaller, fine hair, fluffy curl

Curl and Stem Direction
Terms: Clockwise Counterclockwise

Pin Curl Bases or Foundations
Rectangular base: -recommended on front hairline -smooth upsweep effect Name the pin curl with this base, then add to side bar.

Triangular base: -use at front or facial hairline -prevents breaks and splits Arc base: -half-moon -gives good direction -used at hairline Which pin curl uses each of these bases? Add to side bar.

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-curly styles without volume or lift
Square base: -curly styles without volume or lift List the two pin curls that have this base. Add to side bar. Add to side bar: Pin at the base through ½ of the circle Incorrect-pinning through whole circle

Carved or Sculptured Curls
Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning-forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension ***smoothes the strand/more even results Carved or Sculptured Curls Sliced from a shaping/formed without lifting the hair ***used to finish the hairline in fingerwaves

Designing with Pin Curls Creating Volume with Pin Curls
Barrel Curls -large center openings -rectangular base -similar to roller/not as much tension ***will not last as long as rollers Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade or Stand-Up Curls -create height

Create Roller Curls Advantages over pin curls: Much faster Wrapped with tension/stronger, longer-lasting set Variety of sizes Broadens creative possibilities

Parts of a Roller Curl Base (section) -same length and width as the roller Stem -between scalp and first turn -direction and mobility Curl or Circle -determines size of wave or curl Fig Fig

Determine the good and bad qualities of these two roller sets.

Choosing Your Roller Size
One complete turn creates a C-shaped curl One-and-a-half turns create a wave Two-and-a-half turns create curls

Roller Placement On base-full volume -sits directly on its base -over-direct (higher than 90 degrees ) Half base-medium volume -sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base -hold strand straight up (90 degree angle)

Off base-least volume - sits completely off base * under-direct - 45 degrees down from base Roller Direction Placement of rollers follows the movement of the finished style ***how you set is how you comb out Indentation-curls of opposite directions-forms a recessed area (dip or wave movement)

Hot Rollers Used on dry hair Stay in for minutes Use thermal protector spray before setting Weaker curl than wet set (rollers) Stronger and longer-lasting than curling iron

Velcro Rollers Add to side bar: *Not legal in Pa beauty schools Salons must remove hair and disinfect between each client Used on dry hair Wet hair will snag and pull the hair Leave in for 5-10 minutes

Fabric grips hair and stays in place
Mist hair with hairspray Can place client under hooded dryer for minutes ***Review page 97 for disinfection procedure

Master Comb-out Techniques Good set leads to good comb out
If you follow well-structured system of combing out hairstyles, you will save time and get more even results (on test-organized order) *** after the tease ~ start at bottom ~ place hair as you go up to the crown ~ bring in the sides ~ top is last

Back-combing and Back-brushing Techniques
-called teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing -mats hair at the scalp -forms a cushion

-after hot rollers or blow-drying ***read techniques list
Back-brushing -called ruffing -soft cushion Both: -used for up-dos -adds a little height -after hot rollers or blow-drying ***read techniques list Glamour.com

Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight
Hair Wrapping Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight Very little volume-hair at scalp is not lifted Done on wet or dry hair summary-hair-care... Read “Here’s a Tip” and “Caution”

Blow-dry Styling Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation Women desire hairstyles that require the least time and effort to maintain Guide and educate the client through this process The client’s first impression of the haircut you have done will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry

Add to side bar: Warm air “molds” the hair (into the desired shape) Cool air “sets” and removes frizz (smoothes and looks like a curling was used) Demonstration on mannequin

Guidelines to follow: Never hold blowdryer too long in one place Move constantly back and forth motion-unless using the “cooling” button Always direct hot air away from client’s scalp (avoid burns) Direct the hot air from scalp towards ends of the hair Partially towel dry the hair before blowdrying Read “Here’s a Tip”

Tools for Blow-dry Styling
Blow-dryer-an electrical appliance designed for drying and styling the hair Concentrator-is a directional feature -creates a concentrated stream of air Diffuser-air flows more softly -keeps textural definition

Not on test: good to know-clients will ask.
***Ionic blow dryers and curling irons infuse the hair with beneficial negative ions that seal the hair cuticle, eliminate frizz, and create shiny, silky, healthy hair. ***Ionic blow dryers dry hair quicker than regular blow dryers by breaking up the water in the hair into smaller particles which can evaporate faster.

Keep blow-dryer perfectly clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair
Air intake at back of blow-dryer must be clear at all times If intake is covered, dryer element will burn out prematurely

Combs and Picks Teeth closely spaced remove definition from curl Creates a smooth surface Widely spread teeth give a more textured surface Comb with pick on the one end lift the hair away from the head

Brushes Classic styling brush Half-round, rubber based Seven or nine rows Nylon bristles Heat-resistant/antistatic Smoothing and untangling all types of hair Little volume Less suitable for smooth classic looks

Paddle brush Large, flat base For mid-to longer-length hair Keeps hair from snagging FYI: Finger brush by Olivia Garden *great for long hair *removes tangles instantly *feels great on scalp

Grooming brushes Mixture of boar and nylon bristles Boar bristles-distribute the scalp oils/gives shine Nylon bristles-stimulate circulation of blood to the scalp Adds polish and shine to fine to medium hair Great for combing out updos

Speeds up blow-dry process Ideal for fine hair
Vent brushes Speeds up blow-dry process Ideal for fine hair And adding lift at the scalp

Round brushes Various diameters Metal cylinder bases-heat transferred creates a stronger curl Cooling button “sets” the hair in the new shape

Teasing brush Thin nylon styling brush Good for back-combing Use the sides of the bristles to smooth into the desired style Sectioning Clips Metal or plastic Keep whatever wet hair you are not working with sectioned off Do not allow wet hair to sit over dry hair

Styling Products “liquid tools” Gives style more hold Can increase or decrease amount of curl Adds shine Greatly enhances style

Know, to determine correct product for client:
How long the style needs to hold What environmental conditions-dryness, humidity, wind, sun Type of hair-fine, coarse, straight , curly Heavier products work by causing strands of hair to cling together, adding more pronounced definition Can weigh the hair down, especially fine hair Range from light to very firm hold

Types of Styling Products
Foam or mousse light, airy, whipped styling product Builds moderate body and volume Massage into damp hair Good for fine hair Does not weigh hair down Excellent for drier, more porous hair

Gel Thickened styling preparation Strongest control for slicked or molded styles Gives distinct texture when spread with fingers Creates long-lasting body Firm-hold gel may overwhelm fine hair

Liquid gels or texturizers
Lighter less viscous (liquid) Good for all hair types Offer firmer, longer hold for fine hair with least amount of heaviness Gives a lighter, more moderate hold for normal or coarse hair

Upselling As you style the client’s hair, talk about the products you are using to achieve the desired look, and why Have client hold product while you demonstrate the uses and benefits Discussing and recommending Professional products as you use them -educate client -enhance salon’s reputation/help sell its products

Straightening gel Applied to damp hair Creates a smooth, straight look/blowdrying Counters frizz Temporary Becomes undone in extremely humid conditions

Volumizers Sprayed at the base of fine, wet hair Adds volume Add a light gel or mousse to the rest of the hair for more hold Avoid the base (with the gel)

Pomade or wax Adds considerable weight Used on dry hair Very easy to mold Greater manageability Use sparingly on fine hair Excellent on short hair * Demonstrate use

Silicone Adds gloss and sheen While creating textural definition Non-oily silicone products/all hair types Provides protection while blow-drying adds shine Spray shines/no weight Works best on dry, curly, and coarse hair Aquage “Beyond Shine”

Hair spray or finishing spray
Form of a mist to hold style in Most widely used hairstyling product Finishing spray used when style is complete and will not be disturbed ***Build-up removal treatments work well to cleanse the hair from all products ***Baking soda removes hair spray build up in one minute

Thermal protection product
Also known as heat protectant Used on damp hair-before blowdrying Protects hair from heat damage Forms include: spray, cream, mousse, and serum

Page On the test: #10. Direct the stream of air from the blow-dryer over the curl in a back-and-forth motion across the brush On the test: Add to side bar Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place Always direct the hot air from the scalp to the ends

Hot air flows in the direction in which the hair is
Hot air flows in the direction in which the hair is wound/improper technique will rough up the hair, making if frizzy Add to the side bar: Start drying at the bottom (underneath) in nape area Drying order: Scalp Cold (hair) shaft Ends

a. Marcel Grateau Thermal Hairstyling
Q. Who invented marcel waving in 1875? Add this to side bar Thermal waving/marcel waving and thermal curling are methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair a. Marcel Grateau

Electrical or stove-heated
Manipulative techniques/same for both irons Thermal Irons Irons made of quality steel Even heat controlled by stylist Electric curling irons *range ½”- 3”

Non-electrical favored by stylists catering to clients
Non-electrical favored by stylists catering to clients with excessive curly hair Large range of barrel size Higher heat capabilities

Two parts to know: Barrel or rod and Shell (spoon) Flat Irons ½”-3” straight edges Creates smooth, straight styles Beveled edge-bends the ends Improving-constant even heat even on high settings Ergonomic grips/lightweight

Analyze condition and texture of the hair
Bleached hair----delicate----could break off Lower setting in fine hair Higher setting for coarse, curly, thick hair Work ½”-1-inch sections Use slow, smooth motions on resistant hair Apply thermal protection spray

Correct hand position to prevent carpal tunnel

Testing Thermal Irons After heating, test on tissue paper (or white cloth) Hold for 5 seconds If scorches, iron is too hot Let cool before using Overly hot will scorch hair off/discolor white hair Fine, lightened, or damaged=less heat Best reason ever to test your heated tools!!!!!!! Youtube: girl gets hair burnt off with curling iron

Care of Thermal Irons Remove dirt, oils, and product residue Dampen towel with soapy solution and a few drops of ammonia (or prepared cleaners) Wipe barrel Non-electrical irons, immerse in solution Do not clean while turned on or still cooling

Comb Used With Thermal Irons Manipulating Thermal Irons
Use hard rubber or other nonflammable substance Have fine teeth to firmly hold the hair Manipulating Thermal Irons Hold iron in a comfortable position that gives you complete control

Temperature Setting depends on texture of the hair Fine hair, lightened or tinted, or white hair use gentle heat (warm not hot) Coarse and gray hair-use more heat (hotter)

Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
Straight hair-permits quick styling Pressed hair-permits styling without danger of returning to its former extremely curly condition Wigs and hairpieces-presents a quick and effective method of styling

Curling Iron Manipulations
Method of holding the iron is a matter of personal preference Choose one-greatest ease, comfort, and control of movement Practice opening and closing at regular intervals Practice releasing the hair with quick, clicking movements

The 4 Basic Curl Patterns
Practice guiding the strand to the center of the curl Use the comb to protect the client’s scalp from burns The 4 Basic Curl Patterns 1. Root curl-volume, movement, curl formation from scalp to ends 2. Spiral curl-curling the hair while winding the strand around the rod *vertical corkscrew-best on one length hair

3. Waves-create S pattern
*texture and volume *applied to any texture or length *usually a surface enhancer 4. End curls-for long, medium, or short hair *turn under or over

Volume Thermal Iron Curls
Used to create volume or lift Volume-based thermal curls-maximum lift or volume -curl is very high on base (135 degree angle) Add: over-directed Figure 17-72

Full-Based Thermal Curls
Full volume-sits center of their base *strong curl-full volume -125 degree (over-directed) Figure 17-73 Half-based *half off base -strong curl-moderate lift or volume -90 degree angle Figure 17-74

Finished Thermal Curl Settings
Off-base *placed completely off their base -slight lift or volume - 70 degrees Figure 17-75 Finished Thermal Curl Settings Finished set-clip each curl in place until ready for styling

Safety Measures (3 needed for test)
Use only after instructions Keep irons clean Do not overheat irons Test temperature on tissue paper Avoid burning yourself or client Place in a safe place to cool Heating conventional irons do not place handle too close to the heater

Be sure iron is properly balanced in heater
Use hard rubber or non flammable combs Celluloid combs must not be used- flammable Do not use metal combs/too hot/burn scalp Place comb between scalp and iron/prevent burns Hair must be cleaned and completely dry

Do not allow ends to protrude over iron/fishhooks
Lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair-use gentle heat Use proper technique avoid “lines of demarcation” Use thermal protection product

Thermal Hair Straightening (Pressing)
Temporarily straightens extremely curly or resistant hair with a heated iron or comb Lasts until hair is shampooed Prepares hair for additional services *thermal curling Good pressing-leaves hair in a natural and lustrous condition *not harmful to the hair

Three types: On test!!!! Soft -removes up to 50-60% of curl Pressing comb-once on each side of hair Coarse hair-smaller sections Fine hair-larger sections Add -no pressure

-removes up to 60-75% of curl -once on each side -with some pressure
Medium press -removes up to 60-75% of curl -once on each side -with some pressure Hard press -removes 100% of curl -twice on each side Add -with pressure Also called double press myblackhairjourney.bravehost.com/press1.jpg

Read: Caution box

Analysis of Hair and Scalp
Before press, analyze condition of hair and scalp If not healthy-give appropriate corrective treatments If scalp skin disease-advise client to see a dermatologist If hair shows signs of neglect-recommend a series of conditioning treatments

Failure to correct dry and brittle hair-results in
Failure to correct dry and brittle hair-results in breakage during hair pressing Burned hair strands cannot be conditioned Check hair for elasticity and porosity Good elasticity-stretches about 50% (when wet) of original length before breaking

Texture (coarse, medium, fine) Feel (wiry, soft, or silky) Elasticity
Analysis covers: Wave pattern Length Texture (coarse, medium, fine) Feel (wiry, soft, or silky) Elasticity Color Condition Condition of scalp Read lists

Hair Texture Coarse, extremely curly hair has qualities that make it difficult to press Coarse-greatest diameter Requires more heat and pressure Medium curly-no special problems -least resistant to hair pressing

Fine hair requires special care
-less heat and pressure Wiry, curly hair may be coarse, medium, or fine, and feels stiff, hard and glassy -very resistant to pressing -use more heat and pressure

Scalp Condition Classified as normal, tight, or flexible Normal-proceed with analysis If scalp is tight and hair coarse-press the hair in the direction it grows Flexible scalp- use enough tension to press the hair satisfactorily

Service Notes Keep a record of the hair and scalp analysis Include all pressing treatments Question client about lightener, tint, gradual color (metallic), or other chemical treatments Release statement (may not hold up in Pennsylvania)

Conditioning Treatments
Involve special cosmetic preparations for the hair and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp massage Usually results in better hair pressing Pressing Combs Two types-regular and electric Constructed of good quality stainless steel or brass Handle is made of wood/does not absorb heat

To temper a new pressing comb-
-heat the comb until extremely hot -coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil -let cool down naturally -run under hot water to remove the oil

Heating the Comb After heating the comb, test it on a piece of light tissue paper (end wraps or sanex strip) If paper scorches, allow comb to cool slightly before applying it to the hair Straightening comb attachments fit on blowdryer *less damaging *less effective at pressing hair

Cleaning the Comb Will perform more efficiently if kept clean Clean of loose hair, grease, and dust before and after each use Intense heat keeps the comb sterile To remove carbon-rub the outside surface and between teeth with a fine steel wool pad or fine sandpaper Place metal portion in hot baking soda solution for 1 hour; rinse and dry

Pressing Oil or Cream First apply pressing oil or cream to hair
Products have these effects: Makes hair softer Prepare and condition the hair for pressing Helps prevent the hair from burning or scorching Helps prevent hair breakage Condition the hair after pressing Add sheen to pressed hair Helps hair stay pressed longer

Hard Press Only recommended when the results of a soft press are not satisfactory Also known as a Double comb press Touch-ups Process is the same-with shampoo omitted

Reminders and Hints for All Pressing
Good judgment=avoid damage Client’s safety is ensured only when stylist observes every precaution (need 3 for test) Avoid excessive heat or pressure Recommend conditioning treatment mask *twice a month Avoid too much pressing oil Avoid perfumed pressing oil-allergic

Avoid over frequently hair pressing
Keep comb clean at all times Avoid overheating Test temperature on paper before applying to hair Adjust temperature to the texture and condition of the hair Use comb carefully to avoid burning the scalp, skin, and hair

Prevent smoking and burning by drying the hair completely
Use moderately warm comb to press short hair at temples and back of neck Fine hair-consider using flat iron on high heat

Caution Box Two types of injuries: Immediate -burned hair that breaks off -burned scalp causing temporary or permanent loss of hair -burns on ears and neck that form scars

2. Not immediately evident
-skin rash if allergic to pressing oil -breaking or shortening of the hair due to many frequent hair pressings

Special Considerations
Pressing fine hair -less pressure Add -less heat *apply less pressure near the ends of the hair Pressing short, fine hair -extra care at hairline -extra short. Comb should not be too hot -comb causes accidental burns/painful/scars

Pressing coarse hair -apply enough pressure so hair stays straightened Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair -might require conditioning treatments -gray hair can be particularly resistant -moderately heated comb, light pressure -avoid excessive heat/discoloration/breakage

Creatively Style Long Hair
Updo-hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders Secured with implements like hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics Half updo (half up)-for long or very long hair -half of the hair is pulled back off the face -pinned at or below crown Special occasions

Five key points: Preparing-tools and materials -hair shampooed previous day (freshly shampooed hair slippery and difficult to work with) ***be sure client has put gel into shampooed hair and blown dry the hair, hairspray is recommended. -thermal irons or hot rollers *curl helps with rolls or loops, and fuller shapes

2. Sectioning: -allows you to control long hair -work with cleanliness -keeping lines simple *execute the look in a timely manner *ensures a quality end result

3. Pinning: -Hairpins-open-ended *bend one end of pin back-when inserted it locks into place *best in backcombed or back-brushed hair -Bobby pins *keep hair tight to the head *interlock to secure in place

4. Balance: -often overlooked -difference between flattering or not -head shape, neckline, facial structure analyzed before -periodically stand back and away from your work—is the balance right? -use mirror-look at every angle *front, back, profile

5. Texture: -creates the foundation *build your shape *design your style *customize to individual -styling tools and products *create any texture

Two basic hairstyles: Ponytail -most commonly used, versatility -chignon, bun, and knot -place on various parts of the head -worn casual, classic or trendy

French Pleat (French twist)
-means “folded” -classic long hairstyle -formal functions ***Level 1’s set on wet set rollers first, then comb- out ***All hair is in the twist when completing first one ***second and on-bottom twisted, top and sides up styled. ***review pinning on page 517

Chignon -true classic/popular for centuries -created from simple ponytail -dressed up with flowers or ornaments,or kept simple -very straight and silky hair-use large barrel thermal iron or set on hot rollers -wavy or curly, blow-dry straight -extremely curly-press first or leave for a textured-looking chignon

Bun: -foundation is a ponytail *sits high or low *secured with elastic band *small and large bobby pins *can use accessories

Client Consultation Make sure you understand what the client has in mind Pre-wedding, come in with hairpiece to try several styles Take photographs to help decide which she likes best Keep the photo to duplicate style on her big day

Artistry of Hairstyling
Master basic styles Create your own unique and attractive looks Styling trends change quickly Have a mannequin at home---Practice Create looks in magazines-try new ideas and techniques Every client presents creative possibilities

Chapter 17 (2016 Edition) Hairstyling.

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