Hems

A properly sewn hem :  Hang straight & even  Parallel to the floor  All fullness be eased in and sewn smoothly

Hem Steps 1. Mark the hem length 2. Turn the hem up and press 3. Finish the hem edge 4. Attach the hem

Mark the Hem  Work with a partner  Wear garment with appropriate shoes  Measure the desired length with a yard stick from the floor  Mark desired length with pins or a marking tool

Turn Up the Hem  Depending on the selected hemming method, measure from desired hem length and make an additional mark noting where to trim the excess fabric

Finish the Edge The raw edge of a hem must be finished to prevent raveling.  The finish is determined by fabric & function.  The raw edges of hems are finished just like the raw edges of seams

Attach the Hem Hems are attached by hand, machine, or fusing.

Hems by machine  It is the quickest, permanent hemming method  Most common methods are Topstitched, Turned & Stitched, Machine Blind Hem, and Rolled Hem

Topstitched  Used to attach a hem and decorate at the same time (the stitching shows, just like any topstitching).

Topstitched Hem 1. Mark hem 2. Trim to 1 ¼ ” 3. Press hem to inside 1 ¼ ” 4. Turn raw edge in ¼ ” & press again. 5. Top stitch close to second fold.

Hems by machine Turned and Stitched Looks like a topstitched hem, but the amount of fabric turned up is very small (1/4 ” and usually found at the bottom of a man’s shirt).

 Turn & Stitch Hem 1. Mark hem & trim so that it is 5/8 ”. 2. Turn raw edge up 5/8 ” & press. 3. Turn raw edge in to the 5/8 ” pressing line and press again. 4. Topstitch along the second folded edge.

Machine Blind Hem Used for most commercially hemmed garments, Uses the blind hem foot. Virtually invisible

Steps Machine Blind Hem 1. Press the hem 2. Fold the raw edge in ¼ ” and press 3. Pin hem in position 4. Turn the “ hem ” back on itself 5. Position it under the blind hem foot 6. Sew using the machine blind hem stitch

Hems by hand The stitches should be: evenly spaced loose enough that the fabric does not pucker almost invisible sewn with a single thread

Hems by hand Slip stitch:  Stitches are almost invisible  Used to attach a folded edge such as a hemmed (turned & stitched) finish or bias binding.

To sew, the hand needle is slipped inside the folded edge of the hem and the picks up one or two threads of the fabric directly below.

Fused Hem  It is considered a quick fix.  Used to temporarily hold a hem, i.e dressing for work and you inadvertently pull out the hem of your pants and need a quick fix.  Done with a fusible web