The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of hair colour and lightener Chapter 16, Colouring hair

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 During the session you will: Identify how natural and artificial colour pigments can be altered. Explore the different types of artificial hair colour. Explain where the colours work on the hair and investigate the features & benefits of each artificial hair colour. Identify the terms ‘tone’ and ’depth’. Explore the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide. Investigate how a lightening products works on the hair. Complete Word search

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of artificial hair colour Hair colour can be changed by the addition of artificial pigments: colouring Hair colour can be changed by the removal of natural pigments: lightening/bleaching

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of artificial hair colour (cont.) TypeEffect TemporaryAdds pigment on a temporary basis Semi-permanentAdds pigment that lasts several washes Quasi-permanentAdds pigment that fades over time PermanentAdds pigment that is permanent Bleach /high-lift colour Removes natural pigments permanently Colour stripperRemoves artificial pigments Refer to textbook, Chapter 16, pages 11–12

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Temporary colours Have large molecules that sit on the outside of the hair between the scales of the cuticle Positives available in different forms, e.g. mousse, gel good for first time colouring easily removed can be used to produce subtle effects will not damage the hair last only one wash Refer to textbook, Chapter 13, pages 12–13

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Temporary colours (cont.) Negatives X Only last for one wash X Cannot lighten the hair X May not give an even coverage X Can be difficult to remove on porous/damaged hair X Cannot achieve a specific target shade

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Features and benefits All products we use will have features and benefits Features are things about the product: the types it is available in – mousse, gel, box, etc. the range (colours, shades, etc.) what it can be used for Benefits are things about what it will do for the client (why they should have the product or service): Why this colour will fulfil the client’s needs Improve his/her appearance Easy to apply and remove, etc. Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 10– 11

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Temporary colours Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes FeaturesBenefits Complete Activity 2 Temporary colours

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Semi-permanent colours Have smaller molecules that lodge between the scales of the cuticle and on the outer cortex. Positives available in different forms, e.g. mousse, gel good for first time colouring give better results than temporary colours will enhance the client’s natural will not damage the hair last for up to six or eight one washes Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 11–13

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Semi-permanent colours (cont.) Negatives X Cannot lighten the hair X May not give an even coverage X Can be difficult to remove on porous/damaged hair X Cannot achieve a specific target shade X Will not cover white/grey hair

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Semi-permanent colours (cont.) Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes. FeaturesBenefits Complete Activity 3 Semi-permanent colours

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Quasi-permanent colours Quasi-permanent colours have smaller colour molecules and are mixed with lower strength hydrogen peroxide. They enter the cortex of the hair and are oxidised during the processing. This makes them swell and then they are trapped inside the cortex. Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 11–13

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Quasi-permanent colours (cont.) Quasi-permanent colours are popular in the buy to use at home market. They require a skin test before each application. Colour will fade over time. Will produce a regrowth. They are very useful in refreshing worn tired hair.

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Quasi-permanent colours (cont.) Positives last for between12 and 24 weeks will cover up to 80% white/grey hair Good range of colours Can be used for fashion effects Can be used to achieve target shade Can be used for colour correction work Can be used to refresh Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 11–13

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Quasi-permanent colours (cont.) Negatives X Do not cover 100% white/grey hair X Will fade over time X Can only be removed by colour strippers X Can give patchy results on hair in poor condition

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Quasi-permanent colours (cont.) Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes. FeaturesBenefits Complete Activity 4 Quasi-permanent colours

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Permanent colours Permanent colours have small colour molecules that are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. They enter the cortex of the hair, and are oxidised during the processing. This makes them swell and then they are trapped inside the cortex. Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 15–16

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Permanent colours (cont.) Contain a chemical compound called PPD (para-phenylenediamine). This can cause an allergic reaction. Hydrogen peroxide oxidises the natural pigments of the hair and this enables the artificial pigments to bond with them, creating a permanent change within the hair’s cortex. Contain ammonia/resorcinol Contain conditioning agents Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 15–16

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Permanent colours (cont.) Positives Have the largest choice of colours Are resistant to fading Will cover 100% white/grey hair Can be used for natural, fashion and fantasy effects Can be used to achieve target shade Results can be lighter than the client’s natural colour

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Permanent colours (cont.) Negatives X Some people can be allergic to PPD X Always require a skin test (if in contact with the skin) X Have to grow out X Can only be removed by colour strippers X Can give patchy results on hair in poor condition

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Permanent colours (cont.) Research the features and benefits of temporary colours and fill in the boxes. FeaturesBenefits Complete Activity 5 Permanent colours

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Other colours Vegetable-based colour Made from plant extracts Henna used for dying hair and skin Compatible with most hairdressing products Compound henna – a mixture of henna and metallic salts. Incompatible with hairdressing products Metallic salt-based dyes Surface coating Sometimes called progressive dyes. Incompatible with hairdres sing products Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 16–17

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Depth and tone Depth = how light or dark it is. Tone = the colour or hue GoldRedViolet Very light Light Medium Dark Very dark Tones Depth Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 3–4

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 The International Colour Chart System (ICC) Used by all manufacturers to show the colours in the range. Shades of colour are numbered 1 – 10 Tones of other colours are shown as /1 or  1  3 The system arranges the shades in a table. The names of the bases 1 to 10 will be the same for all manufacturers The tones will have different names Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 4–9

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 The International Colour Chart System (ICC) (cont.) NumShade Ash  1 Violet  2 Gold  3 Copper  4 Red  6 Metallic  7 10Extra light blonde 9Very light blonde 8Light blonde 7Mid blonde 6Dark blonde 5Brown5.4 4Dark Brown 3Darkest Brown 1Black

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 The International Colour Chart System (ICC) (cont.) On some charts the tone will be split into 2 Primary tone is shown as /1 or  1  3 Secondary tones indicate the addition of more pigment and are shown with an added number ShadeDepthPrimary toneSecondary tone  Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 18–20

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Using the colour chart Look at the colour charts that are used in your salon. Compare each against the others. Note the numbering system and the names of the tones. Using a chart, find out the base shades of your colleagues. Compare your results with others in the group. Discuss any differences Complete Activity 6 Using the shade chart

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Hydrogen peroxide Used to develop permanent and quasi- permanent colours Contains hydrogen and oxygen Made up of 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 of oxygen (H 2 O 2 ) Oxygen is used to: Oxidise some of the natural pigments in the hair React with the artificial colour to make it swell Is available in various strengths indicated by volume or % Strength is based on the amount of free oxygen in it Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 18–20

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Hydrogen peroxide (cont.) Hydrogen peroxide strength Effect upon the hair 6 vol (1.9%) Will deposit colour and tone into the hair, adding depth, making it darker when using quasi-permanent colours 15 vol will lighten 1 shades when using quasi- permanent colours 9 vol (2.7%) 15 vol (4.7%) 20 vol (or 6%) Will deposit colour and tone into the hair, adding depth, making it darker when using permanent colours Will lighten 2 shades above base 6 (on fine hair) Will lighten 1 shades below base 4 30 vol (or 9%) Will lighten hair 3 shades above base 6 Will lighten hair 2 levels below base 4 40 vol (or 12%) Will lighten hair 4 shades above base 6 (with high lift colour) Will lighten up to 7 shades of lift with bleach

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Hydrogen peroxide (cont.) Strength cannot be increased Adding 20ml of 40 vol H 2 O 2 to 20ml of 40 vol will give you 40ml of 40 vol NOT 40 ml of 80 vol Hydrogen peroxide can be diluted by adding distilled water e.g. Adding 20ml of distilled water to 20ml of 20 vol H 2 O 2 will give you 40ml of 10 vol H 2 O 2 Complete Activity 7 Diluting hydrogen peroxide

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Lightening hair Lighteners and bleaches dissolve the natural pigments in the hair. They use hydrogen peroxide to achieve the oxidising process. There are 3 main products for lightening effects: High lift colour Powder bleach Gel/oil bleach Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 20–21

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Lightening hair (cont.) During the lightening process melanin is oxidised by the action of oxygen. Eumelanin (black/brown) has small molecules and these are more easily removed. Pheomelanin (red/yellow) is larger than eumelanin and takes longer to remove. During processing the hair will change from brown to red to yellow. Yellow pigments are often difficult to remove. Complete Activity 8 Lightening hair

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 High-lift colour Is a non-bleach option for lightening hair Gentler then powder or gel bleach Mixed with 6% or 9% H 2 O 2 Leave hair in better condition Contains resorcinol which swells the hair shaft giving better penetration into the cortex Deposits tones such as ash, beige or warm tones as the hair lightens Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 22–23

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Powder bleach Used for achieving maximum lift Mixed with 6%, 9% or 12% H 2 O 2 Best used with ‘off scalp’ techniques such as cap highlights and foils Are fast acting Mixed to a consistency of thick porridge Care when mixing to avoid inhaling the powder Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 25–26

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Gel/oil bleach Known as emulsion bleach as it forms an emulsion when mixed Mixed with 6% H 2 O 2 Has activators that enhance the lightening process, also known as boosters or controllers Has ingredients to counter yellow tones Is suitable for techniques that bring the bleach into contact with the skin Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 23–24

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Toning lightened hair Bleach toners are pastel shades that are used to neutralise unwanted tones on lightened hair Toning is the process of adding colour to previously bleached or lightened hair A variety of shades such as silver, ash and beige (cool tones) and rose (warm tone) Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 21–22

The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, , © Cengage Learning 2013 Revisit lesson aims: Identify how natural and artificial colour pigments can be altered. Explore the different types of artificial hair colour. Explain where the colours work on the hair and investigate the features & benefits of each artificial hair colour. Identify the terms ‘tone’ and ’depth’. Explore the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide. Investigate how a lightening products works on the hair. Complete Test your knowledge