Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

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Presentation transcript:

Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

Terms to know: Wave height: vertical distance from lowest (trough) part of wave to highest (crest) part of wave. Amplitude: height of crest above still water level (1/2 wave height) Wavelength: horizontal distance between two crests Period: time between two adjacent crests

Diagram to show terms:

Diagram of wave properties

Speed of wave Equation

Wave Steepness

Deep Water depth = Wavelength/2

Deep water wave equations Wavelength (L) = 1.56 x wave period (T) squared 𝐿=1.56 (𝑇 2 ) Wave speed (C) = 1.56 x wave period (T) (m/s) 𝐶=1.56𝑇 Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L)/Wave period (T) 𝐶=𝐿/𝑇

Shallow water depth = wavelength/20

Shallow water wave equations Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x √Depth of ocean (D) 𝐶=3.13 𝐷 Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L) / Wave period (T) 𝐶= 𝐿 𝑇 (𝑚/𝑠) Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x

Question 6: Measuring Waves

Question 7: Measuring Waves