1. n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves

2.  Crest, trough, wavelength  Wave Height (H)  Wave Steepness  Period (T)

4.  A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength  Sea vs. swell  What determines wave height?

6.  Waves in water depth less than 1/20 of wavelength  Often associated with surf zone  Variety of surf depends on shape of bottom ◦ Plunging ◦ Spilling ◦ Surging

8. spilling plunging surging

9.  Deep water wave ◦ Speed = 1.56T  Shallow water wave ◦ Speed = 3.1 times square root of water depth

10.  Bending of wave crests  Waves approach beach at angle  One part of crest reaches shallow water first and slows down  Waves become more parallel to shore

11. Wave Refraction

12.  note distribution of wave energy  most of energy strikes headlands  causes erosion of headland, deposition in bays  coastal straightening occurs

14.  disturbance of ocean floor  speed greater than 700 km/hr  wavelength greater than 200 km  crests can exceed 30 m as reach shore

16.  http://nctr.pmel.noaa.gov/ http://nctr.pmel.noaa.gov/