2 Ocean Waves Essential Question Objectives How does ocean water work? Identify parts of a waveExplain the process that causes waves to breakDescribe different ocean currents
3 WavesA wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space.As a wave passes, only energy moves forward, while the water molecules move around in circles and stay near their original position.Waves are created by friction from wind.
5 Wave Characteristics The crest is the high point of a wave. The trough is the low point of a wave.Wavelength is the horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two waves.Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough.Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitude of a wave.
6 Wave Height Depends on three factors: Wind Speed Wind Duration Fetch Expanse of water wind blows across
7 BreakersWaves lose energy and slow down as they reach the shore, due to friction with the beachIncoming crests catch up to slower crests aheadsmaller crest-crest wavelengthWaves become higher, steeper, and unstableThe crests collapse forward