Cosmetology Mayer page 558 “the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, skin, hair, and nails”

Purposes Klicker page 167 Klicker page 167 1) replace coloring 1) replace coloring 2) compensate for FH lighting 2) compensate for FH lighting 3) well-groomed appearance 3) well-groomed appearance 4) create a comforting memory picture 4) create a comforting memory picture 5) accent or de-emphasize features 5) accent or de-emphasize features 6) harmonize complexion coloring with clothing, casket interior etc. 6) harmonize complexion coloring with clothing, casket interior etc. 7) conceal discolorations 7) conceal discolorations 8) match wax with complexion color 8) match wax with complexion color

Naturalism in Cosmetology Ornamental Cosmetology Klicker page 169

Pigments of the Skin Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 1) melanin: “brown to black-brown pigment in the epidermis and hair 1) melanin: “brown to black-brown pigment in the epidermis and hair 2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin” 2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin” 3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the arteries which influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries” 3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the arteries which influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries”

Complexion Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 Types/Classifications: light, medium, dark and darker Types/Classifications: light, medium, dark and darker Variations: red, yellow, brown Variations: red, yellow, brown Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, green, gray, and yellow-brown Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, green, gray, and yellow-brown

Matching Complexions Using Basic Pigments Klicker page 169 Klicker page 169 1) yellow 1) yellow 2) red 2) red 3) brown 3) brown 4) white 4) white

Types of External Color Klicker page 168; Mayer page Klicker page 168; Mayer page ) Transparent 1) Transparent 2) Translucent 2) Translucent 3) Opaque 3) Opaque

Methods of Applying Color Klicker page 168 Klicker page 168 1) internal 1) internal 2) external/surface application 2) external/surface application Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p

Reduction of Density Mayer page 568 Cosmetic Application at Hair Regions

Corrective Shaping Klicker page 187 Highlighting or Shadowing Cosmetics

“application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion” “application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion”

Shadowing Klicker page 183; Mayer pages Klicker page 183; Mayer pages Eye Shadow Eye Shadow Orbital Cavity Orbital Cavity Forehead Forehead Nasolabial Folds Nasolabial Folds Cheekbone Cheekbone Mouth Mouth Chin Chin Dimples Dimples

Highlighting Forehead Forehead Nose Nose Chin Chin

Warm Color Areas Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and forehead Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and forehead Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles

Corrective Shaping of the Lips Klicker page 188 Klicker page 188 Thickening the Lips Thickening the Lips Widening the Lips Widening the Lips Thinning the Lips Thinning the Lips Narrowing the Lips Narrowing the Lips

Coloring the Lips Natural Effect: Youthful Natural Effect: Youthful Adult Adult Old-age Old-age Crimson Lip Color Crimson Lip Color Ornamental Effect Ornamental Effect

Rouges and Rouging Klicker page 167; Mayer page 572 Proper rouge application and color selection constitute two of the most important phases of mortuary cosmetology

Purpose Replace the blood-color on nude skin. Replace the blood-color on nude skin. Create a florid or ruddy complexion. Create a florid or ruddy complexion. Combat absorptive effect of illumination. Combat absorptive effect of illumination. Re-instate warm color areas. Re-instate warm color areas. Correctively shape the cheeks and lips. Correctively shape the cheeks and lips.

Classifications Klicker page 168 Klicker page 168 Liquid: transparent, opaque Liquid: transparent, opaque Cream Cream Powder Powder Lip Lip

Natural Rouging Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573 Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573 From youth to middle-age, and then to old-age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks. From youth to middle-age, and then to old-age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks. Infants Infants Children Children Adolescents Adolescents Young Adults Young Adults Middle Age Adults Middle Age Adults Aged Adults Aged Adults

Ornamental Rouging Violates the “rules” of natural coloring. Violates the “rules” of natural coloring. Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the face. Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the face. Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold. Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold.

Lip Rouging Techniques Klicker page 169 1) lining and filling 1) lining and filling 2) vertical brush application 2) vertical brush application 3) horizontal brush application 3) horizontal brush application