Haircolor vs Hair Color Chapter 19

A hair colorist needs to become an expert in: Enhancing natural hair color Blending or covering gray Lightening natural hair color Depositing color on previously colored hair (corrective) Depositing color on hair that has been lightened (corrective) Creating dimensional color

Why do people color their hair? Cover or blend gray Enhance existing haircolor Create a fashion statement of self- expression Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure such as sun or chlorine Accentuate a particular haircut

Hair facts The structure of the client’s hair and the desired results determined which haircolor to use The hair structure affects the quality and ultimate success of haircolor service Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair, while others cause little change or can help repair You must know how the products will affect the hair in order to make the best choice for your client

Hair structure: TEXTURE & how it effects haircolor Texture: melanin is distributed differently according to the texture Melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker Medium texture hair has an average reaction to haircolor Coarse hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process

Hair structure: Density & how it effects haircolor Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor to ensure proper coverage Density also determines the quantity of color or number of ounces that must be mixed

Hair structure: Porosity & how it effects haircolor Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, but it may also “bleed-out” faster Low porosity means the hair is resistant and it is difficult for the moisture of chemicals to penetrate and may require a longer processing time Average porosity should take an average amount of processing time and produce the best results High porosity means that the hair is overly porous and takes color quickly and fades quickly – requires preconditioning or use of a filler

Porosity Test Take a strand of sever hairs, hold the strand securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp If the hair feels smooth it has low porosity If the hair feels slightly rough it is average If the hair feels rough is has high porosity

Hair color Hair color is natural color Haircolor is artificial color Learning to identify a client’s natural hair color is the most important step to becoming a good colorist

Hair color & Haircolor Are based on a level system # 1-10 Some manufacturers go as high as 12, however if you are talking about hair color it will always be based on 1-10

Melanin All hair has both eumelanin and pheomelanin Eumelanin is black / brown Pheomelanin is blond / red

Contributing Pigment Is also called the UNDERTONE It lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when you select a haircolor When you lighten hair you expose the contributing pigment

Level system Unit of measurement used to identify lightness or darkness of a color Level is the saturation of density of a color Color names may vary from manufacturer to manufacture however the degree of lightness and darkness in each level will remain the same

Tone Hue of color or the balance of the color Tones are described as warm or cool Any level can have different tones Warm tones = gold, copper, auburn, burnt orange Cool tones= platinum, ash, drab, blue

How to read a haircolor box The number is the level 1-10 The letters mean: n= neutral r = red rb = red brown rv = redviolet ro = redorange a= ash p = pearl / platinum g = gold k = kopper b= beige gn = goldneutal #’s 11 & 12 are always considered high lift series and act more like bleach or hair lightener with some of the benefits of haircolor

To determine natural level and tone Take a ½ in square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp – allowing light to pass through Using a natural level finder, select the swatch that matches the section of hair, place it up against the hair, you are trying to determine depth level – how light or dark not tone Move the swatch along the hair strand to determine the natural level

Base color Is the predominant tone of a color Example: a haircolor with a violet base color will deliver cool results and help minimize unwanted yellow tones / or a red-orange base will create the bright warm results that some clients are looking for

Law of color Primary colors: Red – Blue – Yellow These colors can not be achieved from mixing any other colors Secondary colors: Green – Orange – Violet These colors are achieved by mixing two primary colors together in equal parts

Law of color continued Tertiary colors Redorange – redviolet – yelloworange – yellowgreen – bluegreen – blueviolet These are created by mixing a primary with a neighboring secondary and always carry the primary colors name first Complimentary colors are those colors opposite each other on the color wheel that cancel each other out example: Red + Green = Brown (Neutral)

Types of Haircolor 2 categories: nonoxidative & oxidative Nonoxidative: temporary & semi-permanent Oxidative: demi-permanent & permanent Lighteners have a unique chemical property and falls into its own category

Temporary haircolor Used to neutralize an unwanted tone Uses large pigment molecules and does not penetrate the cuticle layer, only allows a coating action Only make a physical change not a chemical change Only last from shampoo to shampoo Color rinses, color mousses or gel, hair mascara, spray on color, color enhancing shampoos

Semipermanent Last several shampoos depending on the hair’s porosity Pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate and stain the cuticle layer Last 4-6 weeks and fades with each shampoo It is not mixed with peroxide Used right out of the bottle

Demipermanent Also called deposit only Is an oxidative tint Able to deposit but not lift Many use alkalizing agents other than traditional ammonia however that does not necessary make them any less damaging Great for blending gray hair or a first time color client Less line of demarcation Refreshing faded ends Color correction or restoring natural hair color

Permanent Can lighten and deposit haircolor at the same time in a single process They are more alkaline than deposit only Mixed with different volume developers Used to cover gray hair w/ 20vol developer

Natural & metallic haircolors Are NOT considered professional They coat the hairshaft Shade ranges are limited If this client was to come to the salon they would be upset to find out that out professional products can NOT be applied over these “natural” haircolors

Hydrogen peroxide H2O2 Often referred to as developer Is an oxidizing agent – that supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color Volume measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide Lower the volume – less lift, Higher the volume – more lift 20 volume is used with permanent haircolor to cover gray hair

Lighteners Lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment As soon as H2O2 is mixed with lightener, it begins to release oxygen Oxidation occurs within the cortex of the hair Used to create a light blond shade that is not achievable with permanent haircolor

Decolorizing process 7 stages of lightening The amount of change depends on: 1- the amount of natural pigment in the hair 2- the strength of the lightening product 3 – length of time product is processed Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a controlled final haircoloring result

CAUTION Lightening dark hair to a very pale blond is difficult without extreme damage to the hair Giving hair a white appearance usually will cause the hair to feel “mushy” and will stretch without returning to its original length When the hair is dry is feels brittle and harsh This type of hair often suffers breakage and has difficulty accepting a toner properly

Toners Are semipermanent or demipermanent haircolor products that are used on prelightened hair to achieve the desired color after the decolorizing process

Consultation Is the most critical part of the haircoloring service Hold the consultation in an area with proper lighting If possible the walls should be a neutral color Allow at least 15 minutes Have a client fill out a client information card and release statement Ask leading questions: are you looking for a temporary or permanent change? do you want color all over or just a few highlights? do you see yourself as conservative or dramatic?

Consultation Continued Recommend at least two different color options Review the procedure, application technique, cost of service, and follow-up maintenance Be honest, let the client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve the final results Fill out the client’s record card with detailed notes Avoid negative words – bleached, frosted, roots

CAUTION Medications can affect hair color In the consultation determine if the client is taking any medication Usually medications for diabetes, high blood pressure, and thyroid problems will affect the outcome of color and most chemical services

Selecting Haircolor There are four basic questions that must always be asked when formulating a haircolor: 1. What is the natural level and does it include gray hair 2. What is the client’s desired level and tone? 3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed? 4. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result?

Selecting haircolor Always remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind A higher lift formula may not have enough deposit to cancel the warmth of a client’s natural contributing pigment The volume of hydrogen peroxide mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and deposit

Mixing permanent colors Method of mixing is determined by the type of application that you are using as well as the consistency of the product Applicator bottle – should be large enough to hold both color and developer with enough airspace to shake the bottle and blend the mixture thoroughly Brush and Bowl – use a nonmetallic mixing bowl, measure in developer, add color and use applicator brush to stir the mixture until blended

Color developer ratio 1:1 means for every one part of developer you use one part color 2:1 means for every two parts of developer your use one part color 2:1 is usually only used for high lift color, and should never be used for gray coverage

Patch test Used to determine clients allergies or sensitivities Also called a predisposition test Given 24 to 48 hours prior to haircolor application The color used for the patch test must be the same mixture used to color the hair Mix a small amount of the color to be used and apply it to a small area either behind the ear or in the fold of the elbow, leave undisturbed for 24 – 48 hours. If there is no swelling or redness then the test is negative a your can proceed with the haircoloring service

CAUTION Operator dermatitis or toxicity is the build up of chemicals in the operators system due to not using gloves and repeatedly being exposed to chemicals throughout the day

Strand Test Once you have created a formula try it first on a small strand of hair This test will tell you how the hair will react to the formula that you have chosen

Hair color application - Temporary Drape client Shampoo and towel dry hair Put on gloves Use an applicator bottle Apply color and work around the entire head Blend color with comb DO NOT rinse hair Towel blot and proceed with styling

Single process Lightens and deposits color in a single application Examples are virgin application and retouch application As the hair grows in you will need to retouch the new growth to avoid a two toned effect Line of demarcation is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth

Single Process – Virgin Application Virgin application is applied first to the area where the color change will be greatest or where the hair is most resistant, usually the temples or hairline Section the hair into quadrants Lift a ¼ subsection and apply color to the mid-shaft area stay ½ inch away from the scalp and stop before porous ends Go back an apply color to the scalp Pull the color through the ends of the hair After checking results, shampoo with warm water Remove any stains around the hairline Condition Towel dry and style

Single Process – Retouch application Section hair into quadrants Apply color to the new growth are using ¼ inch partings Complete all four sides and set timer for manf. Suggested processing time Prepare a no-lift deposit only glaze formula to be applied mid shaft to ends Apply the glaze from the line where the retouch application ends to the ends of the hair Check results Shampoo, condition, and style

Double process haircolor This process is used for hair that has to be prelightened because the desired result is a dramatically lighter color Decolorize with a lightener and then use a separate product to deposit the desired tone Because the lightening action and the deposit of color are independent of each other, a wider range of haircolor is possible During the prelightening you can create a perfect foundation for a longer –lasting color that will be true to tone The prelightener is applied in the same manner as a regular hair lightening treatment, shampooed, and then the demipermanent color is applied from scalp to ends

Lighteners 3 forms: oil, cream and powder Oil and cream are considered on the scalp lighteners Powder is considered off the scalp lightener Cream and oil are the most popular because they are easy to apply and are mild on the hair Cream and oil can also be used to professionally lighten dark facial or body hair

Cream lighteners features and benefits: Conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp Thickeners give more control during application process Because cream lighteners do not run or drip overlapping is prevented during retouching services

Powder lighteners: Strong Fast acting Stronger than cream Can cause scalp irritation and should not be applied directly to the scalp Contain persulfate salts for quicker stronger action Tend to dry out quickly Most powder lighteners expand and spread out during processing and should NOT be used for retouch services

Processing time for lightening is affected by the following: The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has , the longer it takes to lighten Amount of time needed is influenced by porosity Tone influences time to lighten natural hair, the greater the % of red the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of pale blond Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and the tone of the hair The strength of the product affects the speed and amount of lightening Heat leads to faster lightening, but can be more damaging to hair

CAUTION Powder lighteners are used exclusively for off the scalp applications This means never directly on the scalp, can be used on the shaft, ends, in foils, in film, baliage, or with a highlighting cap Heat used with lighteners causes the cuticle to crack and break, therefore extreme caution must be used

Lightener retouch Mixture is only applied to new growth Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation Never overlap

Lightening virgin hair application Divide the hair into four quadrants Place cotton in all four sections to protect the scalp Apply lightener ½ inch away from the scalp working the lightener through the mid- strand and up to the porous ends Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parting to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair Complete all four sections in this manner Add more lightener if necessary Do NOT comb the lightener through the hair Keep the lightener moist during development Take a strand test Once desired level is reached apply the lightener to the scalp Then apply to the porous ends Rinse thoroughly with warm water Shampoo gently – hair is fragile Condition hair Tone if necessary

Toners Primarily used on prelightened hair to achieve desired color Your speed and accuracy are both important factors in the application and will determine whether you get good color results

Special effects haircoloring Refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring Highlighting – coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades Lowlighting or reverse highlighting – technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color

3 basic methods of highlighting: Cap Foil Baliage or free form technique

Cap highlighting Previously referred to as “frosting” or “tipping” Pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook Number of strands pulled through will determine the noticeable results

Foil technique (Film, Paper) Coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections and isolating them on foil or a foil alternative Placing foils is an art and takes much practice and discipline Slicing is taking a 1/8 inch parting by making a straight part at the scalp Weaving is selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb

Baliage Also spelled Balyage Is the painting of a lightener directly onto clean styled hair The lightener is applied with an applicator brush or a tail comb from the scalp to the ends around the head Effects are extremely subtle and are used to draw attention to the surface of the hair

Color correction The use of a toner may be used to cancel out any undesirable yellow contributing pigment A toner could but not always add a slight amount of lift or “bump” to the natural hair surrounding the prelightened hair – to avoid this use a color that does not require a developer

Highlighting shampoo Are a mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide They cause the natural color to be lifted slightly

Gray hair challenges & solutions Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough Gray hair can get a yellow cast from smoking, medication, sun exposure, and some styling products – this can often be solved by washing with a violet based shampoo Gray hair accepts the level of color that is applied except when the level is 8 or higher because there is a low concentration of dye found in the higher numbers

Gray hair challenges and solutions Use 20 volume developer Process for 45 minutes Add ½ to 1 ounce of natural/ warm tone to the formula for resistant gray hair High lift blond is not designed for gray coverage Presoften – raises the cuticle of resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color

Rules for effective color correction: Do not panic – remain calm Determine the nature of the problem Determine what caused the problem Develop a solution Always take one step at a time Never guarantee an exact result Always strand test for accuracy

Damaged hair Hair is damaged when it has one ore more of the following characteristics: 1- rough texture 2- overporous condition 3- brittle and dry to the touch 4 – susceptible to breakage 5- becomes spongy and matted when wet 6 – color fades too quickly or grabs too dark

Tips for dealing with damaged hair: Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils and moisture-rich ingredients Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse, this will restore the ability of the cuticle to protect the internal hair Postpone any further chemical services until the hair is reconditioned Schedule the client for between-service conditionings Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for the next service

Fillers Equalize porosity Color filler equalize porosity and deposit color in one application Two type of fillers: color fillers or conditioner fillers Help hair to accept color evenly

Selecting the correct color filler All three primary colors must be present to produce a haircolor that looks natural To correct an unwanted haircolor, always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair Example: orange blond hair can be corrected to a natural blond by adding the missing primary color blue, blue cancels orange A primary color always cancels a secondary color and a secondary color always cancels a primary color

Tips for redheads Fading is a common problem with redheads It is important to recommend the proper at home products for redheads To create warm coppery reds use a red orange base color To create hot fiery reds use red-violet or a true red color Always use a no-lift deposit only color to refresh the shaft and ends If gray hair is present, always add ½ to 1oz of a neutral color or it will be pink

Tips for Brunettes To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color always use a cool blue base To avoid brassy tones do not lighten more than two levels above the natural tone Add 1oz of a neutral color to cover gray in a brunette Natural highlights should be deep or caramel color – blond is too much contrast with brunette, it does not look natural and requires frequent touch-ups

Tips for blonds Is popular, profitable and find When lightening keep in mind the undertones that will be exposed When covering gray hair use a level 7 or darker for best coverage Double process is the best way to obtain pale blond results If a high light blond that only lifts 5 levels is used on a level 4 and below the result will be warm and brassy If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights or deeper strands needed to be foiled in to create a more natural look

Common haircolor solutions Green cast – usually caused by copper build –up in pipes, attaches itself to blond hair, can be washed away with a clarifying shampoo (it is not chlorine that causes this) Green cast – in a brunette, color formulation was incorrect and used a green based color. Tone with a gold, copper or neutral to cast out green tone

Overall hair color is too light To correct apply a no-lift deposit only hair color two shades darker than the previous formula

Overall color is too dark Determine how much color needs to be removed Use an oxidizing haircolor remover Process for 10 minutes and check These are specially formulated to remove oxidative tints from the hair Wash and tone to new desired color

Restoring hair to natural hair color Is called a tint-back When dealing with a blond – first soften the new growth with a level 6 violet base color with 20 volume for 30 minutes, rinse, apply a no lift glaze with 1 oz of level 8 light natural blond and 1oz of level 9 red-orange, do not apply to scalp but rest of head, process for 20 minutes, rinse, then mix a no lift glaze with 2 oz of level 6 neutral apply for 20 minutes checking every 5, rinse, shampoo, condition, and style

Safety precautions Perform a patch test Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present Do not apply haircolor if a metallic hair color is present Do not brush the hair prior to applying color Always read and follow the man. directions Use sanitized applicator bottle, brushes, combs, and towels Protect your client’s clothing Perform a strand test Do not mix color until you are ready to use it Discard all left overs Wear gloves Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch Use a shampoo made for chemically treated hair Always wash hands before and after each client