Costume Unit Drama I Hand Sewing Design Some History, too

Basic Hand Sewing Pages in the textbook will provide you with a basic introduction. Essential tools: – Sharp scissors – Thread – Fabric – Straight pins – Seam ripper – Flexible measuring tape

Sewing language…. Terms: – Seam: a line of stitches that joins 2 or more pieces of fabric. – Seam allowance: the distance between the edge of the fabric and the seam. Standard = 5/8 inch – “right” side of fabric: the side of the fabric that you want to show on the outside – “wrong” side: the side of the fabric that will be on the inside of the garment – Press: to use an iron to flatten the fabric

Plain Seam Can be done by hand, but usually done on a machine. – Pin the right sides of the 2 pieces of fabric together – Begin a running seam 5/8” from the raw edges of the fabric. – Backstitch (if you are sewing on a machine) about a ½” on each end so the seam doesn’t come undone. – Open up the fabric, lay the seams flat to either side, then press them flat with an iron.

Pinning First, use a ruler to measure & make sure your folds are properly placed. Then, fold over and press the fabric with an iron. Always pin your project first when you are sewing 2 pieces together. It’s a matter of preference: – Horizontal pin technique – The pins are placed every inch and a half or so and are parallel to the folded edge. – Vertical pin technique – The pins are placed every inch or so and are perpendicular to the folded edge.

How to Thread a Needle Insert the thread through the eye of the needle. Double the thread over, and then tie a knot. Threading a needle demonstration Or you can use a threader

Running Stitch a.k.a. “straight stitch” To pull the thread in and out of material in a straight line Make sure your stitches are the same distance apart and do not pucker the fabric. running stitch (2:12) running stitch Now YOU try it!!

Basting Stitch A loose running stitch spaced widely apart Do not backstitch at either end, just tie a loose knot. This stitch is used – to perform quick repairs – to hold fabric together so it can be gathered This is a temporary stitch and will not hold over time.

Slipstitch/Blindstitch Used to hem the edge of a garment. Fold over ¼”, then press that fold. Next, fold over as needed to find the right hem length; press that fold as well. Pin your hem first. The goal is that the stitches will show as little as possible from either side. nnel (3:35) nnel (2:26)

Slipstitch/Blindstitch YOU try it!! Fold the bottom of your fabric up ¼”. Fold it again about 1”. Pin it – vertical will work best here Sew a slipstitch/blindstitch all the way across to hem your fabric.

Buttons Mark the place for the button using the button hole as a guide. Watch the back and the front side of the fabric to check for tangles in your thread. Also check to make sure you enter the same hole, rather than make a new hole each time you place your stitch. Sew three times through each set of holes. sewing on buttons demonstration (5:26) sewing on buttons demonstration

Hooks and Eyes Hooks and eyes are used to connect two sides of a garment. When used at the top of a waistband, they help ease the stress on the zipper, and are less likely to split open than a zipper on its own.

General Background Notes Costume line, or silhouette, projects the period of the fashion. Random fact: Did you know? The higher the hemline on women’s skirts, the better the economic situation. Weird, huh? Now back to the show… Historically, there are three types of silhouette – Draped line – Fitted silhouette – Combination of fitted and draped: The X shape

Draped Line A rectangular piece of material that falls in a fold over the body and is held or gathered at the shoulder and sometimes at the waist. Body outline is obscured, attention is on the drape of the fabric. Ex: chiton (Greece), toga (Rome), sari (India)

Fitted Silhouette Material is cut and sewn to emphasize the body. This is a Y shape either upright or inverted (upside down Y) Ex: Shakespearian/ Elizabethan era men’s clothes, matador (Spain), sheath dresses in 50s and 60s (US)

X Shape Fitted bodice (top, bust portion – shoulders to waist) Draped skirt Tight at the waist and wider at the shoulders and hips Ex: 80s shoulder pads with full skirts, 50’s full skirts with shoulder pads under blouse

Psychology of Lines Diagonal lines – add interest – Imply action, excitement, adventure Horizontal lines – add width – Suggest calmness and down-to-earth qualities Vertical lines – add height and stateliness – Implies strength and dignity

Psychology of Color Blue and Green = restful Red = danger Black = tragedy Purple = Royalty (Another random fact: In Elizabethan times, it was against the law for anyone BUT royalty to wear purple. It was too expensive a dye for the general public to afford anyway, since it comes from indigo plants grown far away in Asia.) White = purity and innocence Colors help the audience identify relationships. – Complimentary colors (family) vs. clashing colors (enemies) – Blended colors (marriage; ex: Romeo and Juliet)

Design Time period dictates line and/or silhouette Character dictates fabric pattern and color Socio-economic status of character dictates richness of fabric and style Personality of character dictates color and style THE SCRIPT IS THE KEY for understanding the characters’ needs. Accessories are important to identify character personality & time period. The designer must study: – The script !!! – The time period/history