Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services 2016 Edition A blast from the past

*offers variety of styling options Chemical texture services gives the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave pattern and curl pattern *offers variety of styling options ~used to curl straight hair ~straighten overly curly hair ~soften coarse, straight hair

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Add: First perm recorded 4000 B.C. First recorded perm given: Wrapped over crudely made wooden rollers Mixture of soil and water Baked in sun All day

Texture services include: *Permanent waving *Relaxing *Curl Reforming (soft curl permanents) The Structure of Hair * involves chemically and physically changing the structure of hair

*protects the hair from damage The Cuticle *tough exterior layer *protects the hair from damage *chemicals must penetrate cuticle -into cortex www.hairfinder.com/hairquestions/hairporosity.jpg

The Cortex *middle layer of the hair *responsible for strength and elasticity *breaking side bonds -changes the natural wave

Even an aspirin can affect the outcome of PW Shows how prescription and recreational drugs get trapped in the cortex. Even an aspirin can affect the outcome of PW Blood supply Psychemedics.com

*does not play a role in texture services The Medulla *innermost layer -called pith or core *does not play a role in texture services www.tardigrade.us/stfmel70.jpg

Importance of pH in Texture Services *potential hydrogen *measures acidity and alkalinity *range from 0-14 7 is neutral below 7 is acidic Above 7 is alkaline

Chemical solutions: *raise the pH to soften and swell the hair lifts the cuticle allows solution to reach the cortex *coarse, resistant hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution

porous, damaged, or chemically. treated hair requires a less *porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution newsimg.bbc.co.uk/.../_44474174_hair18_416.jpg

Basic Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids: *compound of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen Add: 18 amino acids www.protocolsupplements.com/Sports-Performanc...

Peptide bonds (end bonds) *join amino acids together (end-to-end) *form polypeptide chain Polypeptide chains *long chains of amino acids

Keratin proteins *long, coiled polypeptide chains Side bonds *disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together

Keratin protein *long chains of amino acids linked together end to end Chemical bonds linking amino acids together *peptide bonds *end bonds Chains of amino acids are called polypeptides

Side Bonds Cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains ~Disulfide bonds ~Salt bonds ~Hydrogen bonds *elasticity and strength

Altering these side bonds makes: ~wet setting ~thermal styling ~permanent waving ~soft curl permanents ~chemical hair relaxing possible

Disulfide Bonds *strong chemical side bond (strongest of the three bonds) *accounts for one-third of overall strength of the hair ***only broken by chemicals -not heat or water (exception-boiling water and extreme thermal heat)

chemical and physical changes. -make PW, curl re-forming, and *chemical and physical changes -make PW, curl re-forming, and relaxing possible Add: Disulfide bonds add strength to the keratin protein Disulfide bonds must be broken down during the perming process

Salt Bonds *weak physical side bonds *easily broken by changes in pH *re-form when the pH returns to normal *accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

Hydrogen Bonds *weak physical side bonds *easily broken by water or heat wet setting/thermal styling *re-form as hair dries or cools *accounts for one-third of hair’s strength

FYI: Wet set-physical change *breaks salt and hydrogen bonds Question: How and when does this happen? *wetting hair/rolling on rollers *re-forms when hair is dry

The Client Consultation Not in Book: Do not add, just listen The Client Consultation *most important part *first: -determine exactly what the client expects -what is possible *nothing will compensate for a lack of communication

Ask open-ended questions -find out what results are expected What type of coloring product is used -metallic salts/not on permed hair http://www.helpusendhunger.org/perms411dosanddonts/

Look at pictures -desired style Previous texture services -likes -dislikes Currently styles his/her hair -discuss any changes resulting from the texture service

Determine finished hairstyle -haircut -degree of curl or relaxing Evaluate -condition -texture -wave pattern Fill out record card

Results of spiral conventional perm with white rods

Permanent Waving *two step process 1. Physical change -wrapping 2. Chemical change -PW solution -neutralizer Always perform an elasticity test before perming

Size, shape, and type of curl = size, shape, and type of rod And the wrapping method used End of story!!!!!

***What you wrap is what you get The correct perm rod and wrapping method=successful PW ***selection of solution ***What you wrap is what you get Q. Without a perm tool, can I achieve a curl in the hair if the PW solution is applied to just the natural hair? Hair wrapped on a tongue depressor Q. What curl pattern can we expect to achieve ?

Chemistry of Permanent Waving *alkaline solution -softens and swells the hair -open the cuticle -solution penetrates into the cortex

*five minutes-swelling of cuticle (pH 9.4) Fig. 20-13 *five minutes with acid-balanced (pH 7.5) -far less swelling of the cuticle Figure 20-12

Reduction Reaction *once in the cortex, waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction -either the addition of hydrogen (in PW) -or the removal of oxygen

*PW-due to the addition of hydrogen *disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms *PW solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each sulfur atom *breaks their attachment to each other *once broken, polypeptide chains forms into new curled shape (size of the rod)

Reduction breaks disulfide bonds *hydrogen in PW solution -softens the hair Oxidation reforms them *oxygen in neutralizer -rehardens the hair in the new shape

reducing agents used in PW solutions *referred to as thio ~contains thiol *Thioglycolic acid is most common *colorless liquid with strong unpleasant odor

*stronger perms -higher concentration of thio (hydrogen) -more disulfide bonds are broken

acids do not swells the hair or. penetrate the cortex, so *acids do not swells the hair or penetrate the cortex, so manufacturers add an alkalizing agent-ammonia *new chemical called ATG “ammonia thioglycolate” (alkaline) *ATG is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent

*degree of alkalinity (pH) -overall strength Coarse hair *more alkaline waving solution Porous hair *easily penetrated *damaged by highly alkaline solution

*alkalinity should correspond to the -resistance -strength -porosity of the cuticle layer

Q. How do you determine the resistance, Q. How do you determine the resistance, strength and porosity of the cuticle layer? Q. If the hair has low porosity, will it require a high alkaline or a milder alkaline solution? Q. If the elasticity of the hair is poor, which strength of perm solution should be used?

Types of Permanent Waves *First alkaline waves (cold waves) *Developed in 1941 *pH between 9.0-9.6 (10,000 times stronger than hair) *room temperature (without heat) *

Acid waves: Glyceryl monothioglycolate(GMTG) *true acid with low pH *primary reducing agent in most acid waves *also contains ATG (cold wave)

repeated exposure to GMTG. causes allergic sensitivity *repeated exposure to GMTG causes allergic sensitivity in hairstylists and clients ***use correct draping procedure ***use gloves and apron or smock

True acid waves *contain -permanent waving solution -activator -neutralizer

*activator tube contains GMTG -must be added to PW solution immediately before applying to the hair

*introduced in 1970’s *pH between 4.5-7.0 *requires heat *processes more slowly *does not produce as firm a curl *GMTG low pH/active ingredient

Q. Since acidic solutions contract the Q. Since acidic solutions contract the hair (close the cuticle), how does a pH of 7.0 cause the hair to swell? (the answer lies in the pH scale)

*pH of 7-neutral *pH of 5-hair *every step-tenfold change pH of 7 is 100 times more alkaline than hair *pure water is pH 7 -can damage the hair -causes it to swell

Acid-balanced waves (used today) *pH between 7.8-8.2 *not true acid (actually acid- balanced waves) *process at room temperature *process more quickly *produces a firmer curl

FYI *all acid waves have three components: -permanent waving solution -activator -neutralizer *activator tube contains GMTG -must be added to the waving solution IMMEDIATELY before use

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Dryer Read both Caution boxes pg. 605!!!! EXothermic waves *chemical reaction that produces heat *heats up the solution and speeds up the processing time *Permanent waving solution, activator and a neutralizer Dryer

*contains thio (in cold waves) *activator contains an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) *added to PW solution immediately before use *causes a rapid release of heat (increases the temperature) *shortens processing time

Endothermic waves *absorbs heat from surroundings *hooded dryer *will not process at room temperature * true acid waves

Ammonia-free waves *very little odor *can be very damaging

*marketed as damage-free -not necessarily true Thio-free waves *not ATG *still a thio compound *marketed as damage-free -not necessarily true www.modernsalon.com/.../06-61ISO_Option.jpg

*do not provide a firm curl *usually marketed as a body wave Low-pH waves *never been popular *very weak *do not provide a firm curl *usually marketed as a body wave www.life123.com/bm.pix/home-perm-blonde-curls..

Add: Stop action perms-curl takes place in a fixed time without the risk of over-processing (we use on the clinic floor) thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/pict/380084059519_10.jpg

Selecting the Right Type of Perm *after consultation - determine which type of PW best suits your client’s hair type condition desired results

Perm for colored-treated hair may not be safe on damaged or bleached hair Semipermanent color puts a coating on the hair, making it more resistant

Permanent Wave Processing *amount of processing is determined by the strength of the solution Review Table 20-1 Mild solution on coarse hair-may not have enough hydrogen ions to break disulfide bonds Stronger solution-perfect for coarse hair, But too harsh/damaging for fine hair

What will the result be if a weak solution is used on coarse hair? Q. What will the result be if a strong formula is used on porous hair? Q. If a plastic cap is not used or is not tight enough, what will be the end result of the PW?

Just know… -never mix until client is completely wrapped and draping procedure is complete -product begins to oxidize immediately Q. What happens to the solution if it is mixed for 5 minutes prior to the application?

*most of the processing takes place in the first 5-10 minutes *additional time allows for the polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration (hair takes the shape of the rod) Fig. 20-17 (reason for not mixing solution before use)

Overprocessed hair * happens in the first 5-10 minutes * Use a weaker solution

Resistant hair *requires a stronger solution *thorough saturation *apply solution slowly and repeatedly until wet and stays wet! (ex. Denise K.) Q. Explain what it is like to saturate resistant hair.

Overprocessed Hair *thorough saturation with stronger solution=more disulfide bonds broken *does not give more curl *a properly processed PW should break and rebuild about 50% of the disulfide bonds

if too many disulfide bonds are. broken, hair may not have *if too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair may not have enough strength left to hold the desired curl *weak hair=weak curl *overprocessed hair -weak curl -may appear completely straight

*hair at scalp is stronger (healthier) -curlier at the scalp -straighter at the ends *further processing will make it straighter/damaged/breakage

Underprocessed hair *too few disulfide bonds were broken *not sufficiently softened-will hold desired curl *usually very weak curl/sometimes straight *straighter at scalp/curlier at ends *processing it more will make it curlier

Permanent Waving (Thio)Neutralization *stops the action of the waving solution *rebuilds the hair into its new curly form

Neutralizers perform two functions: waving solution is deactivated disulfide bonds are rebuilt *neutralizers are oxidizers ADD: Also called “stabilizing lotion”

*chemical reaction -oxidation *hydrogen peroxide *concentrations between 5 and 10 volume FYI: the reason hair is lighter after a perm

Thio Neutralization: Stage One *first function of thio neutralizer is to deactivation, or neutralization, of any waving lotion remains in the hair. *called oxidation

Prior to applying neutralizer: *properly rinse out all PW solution *to avoid -scalp irritation -unwanted lightening *always rinse waving lotion for a full 5 minutes (add 5 minutes for long hair)

*blot the hair -excess water reduces the effectiveness of the neutralizer *successful perms take time, patience, and expertise *proper rinsing and blotting are important!!!

*rinse with warm water *use gentle stream of water *never apply pressure to the rods while rinsing **start at bang area then temples

*thoroughly rinse the bottom rods *rinse for time recommended by manufacturer *smell the hair -if still smells, rinse until odor is gone (full 5 minutes first, then longer if necessary)

*gently blot the hair with a dry towel, then wubbies *check for excess moisture, prior to neutralizing *adjust any rods that have come loose

*acidic liquid protein conditioner -applied prior to neutralization -dried 5 minutes *beneficial to very damaged hair/strengthens hair *always follow manufacturer’s directions

Thio Neutralization: Stage Two rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the “extra” hydrogen *Figure 20-20b *side bonds are reformed to new shape as different pairs

To recap in layman's terms: Waving solution softens and swells the hair to break the disulfide bonds… Q. What would be the result if the perm rods were removed at this point and the hair shampooed? The neutralizer rehardens the hair so it keeps the shape of the perm rod.

Permanent Waving Procedures Preliminary Test Curls *determine how client’s hair will react to a perm *do if damaged *uncertain about the results (notice: only about 3 perm rods placed in hair and processed)

Tells you: *correct processing time *results you can expect *curl results for the rod size and wrapping technique *how much color will be removed *integrity of the hair *breakage/dry/frizzy *is client satisfied

*used to check the progress of the perm Test Curls *used to check the progress of the perm Page 629-630 (procedure is the same as preliminary test curls, however test curls are done during the processing of a full perm to check progress) www.metroasis.com/perm1.jpg

smaller diameter in the center larger diameter on the ends Types of Rods Concave rods smaller diameter in the center larger diameter on the ends tighter curl in center (I feel these follow the shape of the head better) stylors.com

-small, awkward sections Straight rods *equal entire length *uniform curl *short rods -small, awkward sections Hairfinder.com

Add: Selection of rod size Amount of curl desired Physical characteristics of the hair -length -texture -elasticity

Soft bender rods *12” long *uniform diameter *bent into almost any shape

Loop rod or Circle rod *12” long *uniform diameter ***spiral ***extremely long hair

Today: Many perms are performed with Large rollers Rag rollers Other tools to achieve large, loose curls *large tools for root perms *create lift and volume without curls

End Papers * end wraps *absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair (protects) *ends smooth and straight (covered) -fried ends *extends beyond ends of hair -fishhooks (demo)

*most control over ends *evenly distributed Single flat wrap Techniques: Double flat wrap *use while in school *most control over ends *evenly distributed Single flat wrap *does not protect ends *use only as a third paper Demo each

Bookend wrap -one paper folded over -use with short rods/short lengths -avoid bunching ends -keep hair in center

Sectioning for a Perm *sectioning into panels -size, shape, and direction vary *then, divide into subsections/base sections *length and width of the rod being used Read “Here’s a Tip” and “Caution”

*** Break the rule -11 perm rod PW Lasts about 2 months

Base Placement Position of rod to its base On base -45 degrees angle beyond perpendicular -greater volume -my preference -can mark or break the hair…use picks

***minimizes crispness of curl Half off base- -90 degree angle -minimizes tension ***minimizes crispness of curl Off base -45 degrees below center (perpendicular) -least volume (scalp area-no curl)

Base Direction *horizontally, vertically, or diagonally *backward, forward, or to one side *wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth causes less stress/less breakage -against hair growth “band” or breakage

Direction of Hair Growth FYI: Not on Test Direction of Hair Growth Streams, whorls, and cowlicks base direction wrapping pattern ***wrapping the hair in the opposite direction will help client manage an area better for about 2 months

*in overlapping concentric layers -perpendicular Wrapping Techniques Croquignole perm wrap *ends to scalp *in overlapping concentric layers -perpendicular *produces a tighter curl at the ends and a larger curl at the scalp Note-not noticeable on short hair/will be obvious in long hair

Spiral perm wrap *from ends to scalp *wrapped at an angle -like stripes on a candy cane -angle remains constant *conventional or loop rods *produces a uniform curl from scalp to ends

Different tools to achieve different looks

Extra long hair *double rod wrap -piggyback wrap One rods-mid-shaft to scalp Second rod-ends to mid shaft *better penetration of processing and neutralizing solutions Add: better rinsing, blotting, and neutralizing results . *tighter curl at scalp than croquinole wrap (even curl-scalp to ends)Fig. 20-37

Add: Pre-perm analysis determines: Is the hair in good condition 2. Which perm product should be used (strength) 3. Which perm wrapping technique and rod/parting sizes to use

Wrapping Patterns Basic perm wrap: we call it a “straight back perm wrap” *all rods move in the same direction *on equal-sized bases *horizontal *same length and width as the perm rod

Curvature perm wrap: *partings and bases radiate throughout the panels (sections) *follows the curvature of the head *pie-shaped base sections

Bricklay permanent wrap: *offset from each other row by row *prevents noticeable splits *blends the flow of hair *starting points affect the directional flow of the hair

Weave technique: * zigzag partings *blending between perm rods *smooth transition from rolled areas to unrolled areas (partial perms)

Double-rod technique or Piggyback wrap: *two rods are used for one strand of hair *upper half of strand on one rod *lower half of strand wrapped around one rod *stacked

***same color tool used *effective on long hair Q. Why should the picks never be placed in the rods in this manner?

Spiral perm wrap: *wrapped at an angle *perpendicular to the length of the rod *uniform from scalp to ends *for long hair *conventional rods, bendable soft rods, and circle (loop) rods can be used

Not in book: Stack perm

Partial Perms * not entire head Male and female clients * use for hair on top -sides and nape tapered * volume and lift perimeter curls (smooth crown) -has not been done for 30 years

Things to consider: *smooth transition -rolled to unrolled *use larger tool for the last tool *apply a protective barrier cream (thick conditioner) to the unrolled section

Root perm 11-15 perm rod wrap

Japanese modern day twist on old idea. Claims: Smoother Looser Curl starts farther down

Perms for Men *texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance *helps thin hair look fuller *helps control cowlicks *same techniques

Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving *protect client’s clothing -gown -water proof chemical cape -double drape *do not give if had an allergic reaction to previous perm

*examine the scalp -skin abrasions -scalp disease *do not perm if excessively damaged -signs of breakage *do not perm if treated with hydroxide relaxers

*test for metallic salts if possibility *apply protective barrier cream -hairline and ears *do not dilute or add anything unless directed by manufacturer

*keep out of client’s eyes *always follow manufacturer’s directions *wear gloves *immediately replace cotton and towels when wet

*do not save any unopened, unused solutions -chemicals change strength and effectiveness ***Always recommend to the client to wait two days (48 hours) before shampooing -use professional shampoos and conditions for chemically treated hair

Mrs. Mandato and Mrs. Kucas say: Instruct the client to wait 2 days…if the client uses a shampoo or conditioner on their freshly permed hair that is not salon quality-regardless if it is acid-balanced (may contain waxes) the perm could relax…

Q. Who is responsible to re-perm the client’s hair if the perm relaxes? Q. Who will pay for the second service, your time, and possibly the perm solution used? Q. Do you want to take that risk?

Old textbook: recommended three days waiting period prior to a color service. *some concern about scalp irritation and excessive relaxation -Gee, do you think! Mrs. M and Mrs. K say: wait one week, again for the same reason stated earlier.

Causes: Metallic salts * home haircoloring products *not compatible with permanent waving Causes: -uneven curls -severe discoloration -breakage

*progressive haircolor *Grecian Formula * men’s haircolors *progressive haircolor *Grecian Formula Grayhairloss.com

To test for metallic salts: *glass or plastic bowl *mix 1 oz. 20 volume developer with 20 drops of ammonia *immerse 20 + strands of hair *30 minutes

Results: No Salts *hair lightens slightly-proceed If present: *hair lightens rapidly *may get hot *gives off unpleasant odor *Do not proceed!!!!

Add: Metallic dyes fade: Silver-greenish cast Lead-purple Copper-turn red

Add: During test for metallic salts: Hair dyed with Lead-lighten immediately Silver-no reaction Copper-boil and pull apart

Chemical Hair Relaxers *rearranges curly hair into a straighter, smoother form *chemistry of relaxers and permanent waves are exactly the same *both services break the disulfide bonds

Most common types of chemical relaxers are: ammonium thio (ATG), guanidine hydroxide no-lye and sodium hydroxide –lye-based

Extremely Curly Hair *grows in long twisted spirals, or coils *thinnest and weakest at twists *extra physical force can break this area

Thio Relaxers *has a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ATG than perms *thicker *higher viscosity (thicker-resists flowing) Read: Caution Box

*break the disulfide bonds -soften the hair *after enough bonds have been broken, the hair is straightened into its new shape *relaxer is rinsed *blotted *neutralized *chemical reaction-identical to PW

Thio Neutralization *neutralizer is an oxidizing agent *usually hydrogen peroxide *rebuilds the disulfide bonds

Thio Relaxer Application *steps are the same as hydroxide relaxers *neutralization procedure is different *Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or the back of a hard rubber comb *different application for virgin relaxers and relaxer retouch

*light shampoo before relaxer is optional *perform analysis of hair and scalp *Test for elasticity and porosity *poor elasticity= do not perform service

Japanese Thermal Straighteners *also called Thermal reconditioning or TR *combines thio relaxer with flat ironing *Each manufacturer has slightly different procedures

After hair is shampooed and conditioned: (many flat iron before After hair is shampooed and conditioned: (many flat iron before straightener is applied) *straightener is applied -distributed evenly *processed until curl or frizz is reduced *rinse thoroughly for about 10 minutes

*condition and blow dry (completely dry!!!!!) *flat iron each section -several passes of flat iron for each section

*then neutralize and blow dry *service takes several hours (6-8 hours) *not always appropriate for extremely curly hair or some color-treated hair *many manufacturers require certification to use their product

Q. What is the current cost to have this process done?

Hydroxide Relaxers *hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers *very strong alkalis *pH over 13.0

Types: sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide lithium hydroxide guanidine hydroxide * swells the hair 2x *not compatible with thio relaxers, permanent waving and soft curl perms *100 million times more alkaline (stronger) than hair

*hydroxide relaxers break the disulfide bonds differently *removes one atom of sulfur- converting it into a lanthionine bond-called lanthionization *disulfide bonds broken permanently *can never be reformed *unfit for PW *will not hold a curl

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers *metal hydroxide relaxers *sodium, potassium, lithium *include: sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide lithium hydroxide

*all metal relaxers -only one component -no mixing Lye-based Relaxers *sodium hydroxide relaxers -called lye relaxers *oldest-most common *caustic-can cause hair loss and skin burns if used incorrectly

Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide No-lye Relaxers Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide * “no mix-no lye” *chemistry is identical to lye *little difference in performance

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers * “no lye” relaxer *two components *mixed immediately prior to use *straightens hair completely *less scalp irritation

*for sensitive scalps *sold for home use *swells hair more than hydroxide relaxers *more drying

Low pH Relaxers *ammonium sulfite/ammonium bisulfite *mild alternative relaxers *compatible with thio relaxers *not compatible with hydroxide relaxers

*does not completely straighten extremely curly hair *good for -color-treated -damaged -fine

Base and No-base Relaxers *hydroxide relaxers *Base cream -called protective base cream -oily cream -protects skin and scalp -applied prior to relaxer

No-base relaxers *contains base cream *melts at body temperature Added protection: -use base cream on scalp, hairline and ears Read Caution box

Strengths: *Mild ~ fine hair ~ color-treated ~ damaged

*Regular ~normal hair ~medium natural curl *Super strength ~coarse hair ~extremely curly and resistant hair

When in doubt, always strand test prior to the actual application !!! Helps choose: *proper strength *timing *avoids damage, breakage, hair loss

Periodic Strand Testing (During processing) *tells when sufficiently relaxed * *stretch the strand -see how fast curls are removed *smooth and gently press strand to the scalp -using back of comb -applicator brush -fingers *if curl returns-continue processing

Hydroxide Neutralization *deactivates-neutralizes the alkaline residues left *lowers pH of the hair and scalp *does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds *thorough rinsing needed first

rinsing alone does not deactivate the. relaxer nor restore the normal *rinsing alone does not deactivate the relaxer nor restore the normal acidic pH Q. What will the result be if a normal acidic level is not achieved? *acids neutralize alkalis *apply an acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion *neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions (lowers pH)

Neutralizing shampoos: -built-in pH indicator -changes color when the ph has returned to normal Result of improper shampooing or too frequent applications

Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures *Virgin hair application -starts ¼”- ½” away from scalp -entire strand (not ends) ~cold shaft -scalp and ends last few minutes

*Relaxer retouch application -starts ¼”- ½'” away from scalp -only to new growth -scalp last few minutes -relaxer should never be applied to hair that is already relaxed

texturizing service uses hydroxide. relaxers to reduce curl pattern by *texturizing service uses hydroxide relaxers to reduce curl pattern by degrees using a mild strength relaxer *product is gently combed through using large-toothed comb *allows you to observe the curl pattern as it relaxes and creates a natural curly style *texturizing makes combing and styling easier

Most relaxers today recommend using base cream on entire scalp For both virgin application or retouch Retouch: recommended to apply protective cream or oil to previously relaxed hair to treat hair and prevent overlapping

Normalizing conditioning lotions used after rinsing out relaxer, prior to shampooing *conditioners *acidic pH *restores natural pH prior to final neutralizing shampooing

*used after rinsing out the relaxer Neutralizing shampoo *used after rinsing out the relaxer *acidic shampoo *restores pH of hair and scalp *includes color signal-turns pink if any residue remains in the hair-turns white when out *so rinse thoroughly!!!

*thorough consultation -determine which type of relaxer by: ~hair type ~condition ~desired results See Table 20-2 page 621 Advantages and Disadvantages

Safety Precautions for Chemical Hair Relaxing Services *perform ~ hair analysis ~client consultation *examine scalp for abrasions do not proceed *examine hair for signs of if breakage, damage, and present extreme dryness

*do not apply hydroxide relaxers over thio relaxers *visa versa *do not relax over metallic dye *do not relax hair lightened two shades lighter than natural (permanent haircolor) *do not relax highlighted or decolorized with bleach *do not relax hair color treated with 30 or 40 volume developer

*do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer *hair and scalp completely dry and perspiration free prior to hydroxide relaxer *apply protective base cream *wear gloves Chemical burn caused by sodium hydroxide relaxer

*solution in eyes 1. flush with water 2. refer to doctor *no solution contact with ears, scalp, and skin *perform preliminary and periodic strand test *avoid scratching scalp

*do not overlap *use proper relaxer strength for hair type-avoids breakage *do not process longer than indicated by strand test or recommended timing *thoroughly rinse with warm water. Failure to do so will result in excessive skin irritation, possible hair loss, breakage, and damage

*use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator *use conditioner and wide-toothed comb *use caution with hot tools *keep accurate and detailed client records *READ last bullet-highlight all of it.

Keratin -Based Straightening Treatments *also called smoothing treatments or Brazilian keratin treatments *widely used *contain silicone polymers and formalin *formalin releases formaldehyde gas when heated (known carcinogen)

“formaldehyde free” contains formalin Do not confuse with “keratin conditioning treatments” ~Keratin (protein) alone will not straighten hair “Keratin straightening treatments” work by fixing the keratin in place in a semipermanent manner Price: $315.84

*they do not break the bonds Procedure: *treatment is applied *hair is blown dry in narrow sections *flat ironed at 450 degrees on narrow sections (each section ironed several times)

*to polymerize a coating on the hair *takes 2 hours or longer for dense hair *formalin is reactive to proteins and creates a chemical link when heated-releases formaldehyde Read next paragraph

*eliminates up to 95% of frizz and curl *lasts 3-5 months *not usually appropriate for extremely curly, tightly coiled hair. *no certification/manufacturers do offer specialized training in service and after care

Conduct a detailed consultation: So client will understand what to expect from the service Based upon *condition of hair *chemical history *degree of curl

Discuss the following: Hair history-all chemical treatments Home-care maintenance during the 3-day (72 hours) after service *hair may not be shampooed for 3 days *avoid getting moisture in the hair for 72 hours. If hair gets damp, blowdry immediately and flat iron with low heat setting

*client should wear hair down ~no pins, ponytail holders, or sunglasses to hold hair back determine the length and density of the hair before quoting a price

Preconditioning before a Keratin Straightening Treatment Equalize porosity Hair that is extremely porous, damaged, or very curly shampoo and deep condition prior to service

Permanent color/highlights and Keratin Straightening Treatments Client may have before treatment is applied Use regular/mild shampoo during the haircolor service Follow MD regarding use of clarifying shampoo before treatment (do not use on 70% or more highlights)

Toners or Demi-gloss and Keratin Straightening Treatments Done 3-5 days after the treatment *prevents color loss *avoids wetting newly straightened hair Keratin straightening treatments do coat the hair, a strand test may show the product will not cover the existing cuticle coating to desired degree

*does not straighten the hair *makes curl larger and looser Soft Curl Permanents *does not straighten the hair *makes curl larger and looser ADD:***use of thio relaxer and thio perm ***relaxed then wrapped on large perm rods *ATG and oxidation neutralizer *can be called a “perm”, check for clarity

Safety Precautions for Relaxing and Curl Re-forming *perform thorough hair analysis and client consultation *examine scalp for abrasions *keep accurate and detailed client records

*do not apply hydroxide relaxer to hair treated with thio relaxer *do not apply thio relaxer or soft curl perm to hair treated with hydroxide relaxer *do not relax hair treated with a metallic dye *do not relax overly damaged hair

*do not shampoo prior to a hydroxide relaxer *hair must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to applying hydroxide relaxer *apply a protective base cream (not with thio products) *wear gloves

*solution in eyes 1. flush with water 2. refer to doctor *no solution contact with ears, scalp, and skin *perform preliminary and periodic strand test *avoid scratching scalp

*do not overlap *thoroughly rinse relaxer from hair Failure: excessive skin irritation and possible hair breakage *use neutralizing shampoo-restore hair to normal pH

Texture services involve powerful chemicals ~handle with utmost caution ~act responsibly ~perfect your technique ~your services will be in great demand