Batik Tub Dye Method

BATIK - fabric printed by an Indonesian method of hand-printing and coloring textiles by coating with wax the parts not to be dyed.

The Tub Dyeing method is the most traditional form of Batik. You must use fiber reactive dye (Procion MX Dye) because it is “cold water dye” and therefore will not melt the wax. Your fabric must be natural cellulose (plant) fibers like cotton, rayon, hemp, linen, etc. We will be using cotton. (no permanent press)

This method involves an understanding of color mixing This method involves an understanding of color mixing. For example, If your first dye bath is yellow and your second dye bath is blue, you will end up with green. Also, lighter colors are dyed first.

Step 1: Pre-wash your fabric, ideally with a professional dyer's product called Synthrapol. This removes most oils and finishes that could resist the dye and pre-shrinks the fabric. Wrinkles can be ironed out after washing.

Front Back Step 2: Cut cardboard as large as your fabric and cover the front with wax paper. This will be your frame to keep the fabric flat and horizontal.

Step 3: Stretch the fabric across the frame (cardboard) and pin it in place. In this example, the cardboard is also placed on 2 pieces of scrap wood, giving room for the push pins to go through the cardboard.

Step 4: The wax mixture is then melted in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-240 (CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over it's flash point it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames!) Always work in a well-ventilated area and keep baking soda on hand to put out any flames (not water). NEVER leave hot wax unattended.

Step 5: Apply the wax, using a natural fiber brush, a Tjanting, or metal stamps.

The wax should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side. You may adjust the temperature of the wax so that it penetrates the fabric, not so cool that it sits on top (appearing white-ish) , and not so hot that all of your lines spread out.

Step 6: It is now time to dye the fabric. You will need dye, soda ash, non-iodized salt, urea, 5 gallon bucket, 2 mixing cups, measuring cups and spoons, a stirring spoon and rubber gloves. Use the table below as a guide to calculate your measurements, disregarding the oil. For quilting weight cotton 3 yards = about 1 lb.

Step 7: Put on your rubber gloves. Mix the powdered dye with a small amount of warm water (approx. ½ cup). See table for measurement, keeping in mind that you can adjust for lighter or darker shades. Add 1 tablespoon of Urea and mix until dissolved. The urea helps the powdered dye to dissolve and keep your fabric from having “freckles.”

Step 8: In the 5 gallon bucket mix cold water and non-iodized salt per measurement table. It should be enough liquid to cover the fabric completely. Stir in the dye mixture. Add the fabric and stir gently for 20 min.

Step 9: In a small cup, mix the soda ash (per measurement table) with warm water. Slowly pour and stir this into the bucket.

Step 10: Stir frequently for another 30 min. (more if deeper shade is desired).

Step 11: Rinse fabric in cool running water until the water runs clear and let dry for 24 hours.

Step 12: The final stage is to remove the wax. To do this begin by soaking the fabric in hot water with a dash of Synthrapol (approx. ½ a cap full)

Run the fabric between your fingers and thumb to break up the lines.

Step 13: Finally, you will boil out the remaining wax. This is the traditional way of removing the wax. To begin, in a large pot bring water (with a dash of Synthrapol) to a boil.

Step 14: Add fabric and stir for several minutes. Bring the water down to a simmer/boil and keep stirring. Try to keep the fabric below the surface of the water, as the wax is melting and floating to the top.

Step 15: When all the wax seems to be removed, turn off the heat and let the water cool. Be sure to keep the fabric below the surface during this step. In this example the ladle and stick are holding the fabric down. To speed up the cooling process you can carefully pour cold water into the pot.

Step 16: Skim the cooled, hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric.

Step 17: Give the fabric one final rinse and leave to dry. You’re done!

Additional Info: Tub dyeing basics (and washing machine instructions)