1. Influence of Styling Products
Hair conditioners have an acidic pH value that helps to close the cuticles.
In addition, most conditioners include caring ingredients that penetrate the cuticle layer, replacing lost moisture and helping temporarily to restructure damaged areas, for example ingredients such as panthenol.
Title Slide
These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

2. Influence of Styling Products
Conditioning encourages the re-establishment of hydrogen bonds in the hair as moisture content is improved.
This has the added benefit of improving strength & hold.
The majority of styling products contain similar care ingredients and as such are multi-featured, able to style, condition and protect.
Title Slide
These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

3. Influence of Styling Products
As with specific care products, style, definition and care products are usually designed and created with a specific purpose in mind; hence some products will include a UV in order to protect from sunlight, whilst others may have a cream-based formula that nourishes the hair, providing easy application and distribution.
Because of this, some products can be combined in order to benefit from a wider range of features.
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These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

4. Influence of Styling Products
Other examples include the ingredient dimethicone, a silicon-based oil that helps to smooth hair down, reducing friction and preventing undue wear on the surface cuticle layer.
Damaged hair is often negatively charged and this can lead to ‘fly-away hair', a term used to describe the way hair refuses to lie down due to static charge.
Title Slide
These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

5. Influence of Styling Products
Mousse products in particular are ideal to counteract this effect. They are positively charged, which helps to neutralize the static effect, resulting in more controllable hair.
Mousse is also very light and easily distributed, hence is perfect for fine hair.
Select product info for more information on product groups, their composition, effect and action on the hair.
Title Slide
These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

6. Influence of Styling Products
In general finish products are not designed to penetrate the cuticle layer they are surface acting, influencing the hair by coating individual hair shafts and ‘welding' them together.
Finish products that contain care properties, particularly moisturizing benefits, are designed to partially penetrate the cuticle and therefore help to rehydrate the inner cortex.
Title Slide
These notes provide directions and cues for trainers. More extensive, downloadable text is available from individual pages within the COLOUR area of the ASK intranet.
ASK Colour - Colour Theory

7. What Creates Texture
Texture and definition in hair is closely related to how light interacts with hair and is perceived by the eye. Straight hair in good condition looks smooth and sleek, whereas straight hair in bad condition can appear dull and lifeless.

8. What Create Texture
This is due to the condition of the cuticle layer. When the cuticle is closed and intact, light is directly reflected back to the eye; when the cuticle is open and damaged the same light is dispersed by the multiple angles and facets of the open cuticle scales. A similar effect can be seen when looking at the surface of the sea in still and then choppy waters.

9. What Create Texture
The texture effect is multiplied when hair is wavy, curly or styled. Styling products to a greater or lesser degree hold the hair together at various angles, thus creating different reflective surfaces. In addition, ingredients added to products can help enhance texture with a matt or gloss finish. Light oils in particular create a high gloss effect, whilst an opaque cream or wax creates a deliberate matt result.

10. What Creates Volume
Hold is an essential part of volume. Volume is created to a lesser or greater degree by holding the hair away from the scalp, thus making hair appear fuller.

11. What Creates Volume
Generating more space in between individual hair strands also creates volume. Naturally wavy or curly hair already has this attribute built in.

12. What Creates Volume
There are many ways that finish products can support volume, for example wax has a sticky property that enables individual hair strands to be moulded into shape with the fingers.

13. What Creates Volume
Mousse is often used prior to blow-drying with a round brush in order to lock in volume; this is normally followed by the application of a hairspray to create added protection and hold. Styling rollers may be used in combination with a setting lotion, to create a longer-lasting curl or wave. The angle at which the roller is wound will determine how much volume is built in.

14. What Creates Hold
Hold describes the strength of hair and its ability to stay in a particular shape or form. Extreme hold may be achieved using a gel or hairspray (Super or Extreme hold). These can set hard, however more natural results are achieved with creams, mousses or waxes.

15. What Creates Hold
All style, definition and finish products achieve hold through either one or both of the following methods: seam welds or spot welds. However, one method will be more prevalent.

16. What Creates Hold
Seam welds are bonds created by holding hair shafts side by side. In doing so they create a structure that can independently hold the hair away from the scalp. Typically these are found in mousse, gel and wax.

17. What Creates Hold
Spot welds occur where hairs cross over each other to create a supporting structure that adheres the shafts at these points of contact. Hairspray is the most obvious example of this hold type, creating a more natural movement where required.

18. Styling Products and Damage
It is virtually impossible to damage hair directly using styling, definition and finish products, however the results of overuse or neglect may eventually lead to damage.

19. Styling Products and Damage
For example, without regular washing a hairspray or wax-based product will build up on the hair and may eventually become very hard, creating wear across adjacent hair shafts and preventing moisture from revitalizing the hair. In addition, product accumulation may block the opening to the hair follicles, preventing sebum from travelling the length of the hair shaft. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of pityriasis steatoides..

20. Styling Products and Damage
Cheap styling products may start to accumulate even when the hair is regularly shampooed; in this instance a specialist shampoo may be required to completely remove all traces. ..

21. Film Formers
Alcohol-based Film Formers These products contain a combination of alcohol and film formers. Film formers are long-chain molecules, which form a thin film on the surface of the hair, strengthening the hair from the outside. Film formers are dissolved in a solvent, often alcohol. The application of film formers onto the hair selectively cross-links the hair, creating temporary hold.

22. Film Formers
The alcohol content creates a fast-drying styling product, since alcohol evaporates much faster than water. A fine film surrounds the length of the hair and seals it, which creates protection from external elements. This can include protection from sunlight, heat and humidity, which helps ensure long-lasting hold and volume. Added ingredients, such as a UV filter, can increase performance

23. Film Formers
Hairspray Hairspray can be dispensed either by aerosol or non-aerosol pump spray. In both cases this product comes in a variety of strengths from medium to extra strong hold.

24. Film Formers
Hairspray An aerosol hairspray achieves a fine and even distribution through a micro-fine mist, which is possible due to the propellant component This ensures a consistent release of product for the majority of the container lifespan.

25. Film Formers
Hairspray Higher quality hairsprays contain amphomers. These produce a netlike cover which forms over each hair shaft, giving hold and elasticity. In contrast, conventional sprays may produce irregular distribution.

26. Film Formers Hairspray Benefits
Long-lasting hold - film formers last all day.
Protects from wind, rain and sun.
Hygroscopicity - protects against humidity.
Versatile and easy to apply.
Can be used in conjunction with other hair products.
Dries without stickiness.
No obvious wet-look residue.
Can be brushed out easily - allowing for restyling.

27. Film Formers
Setting Lotion Setting lotion is normally dispensed by a pump spray mechanism. The composition can be altered to achieve varying degrees of hold. Setting lotion stabilises the form and shape of hair during styling; with effective setting this can result in a hold that can last for days.

28. Film Formers
Setting Lotion The composition of a setting lotion reduces the hygroscopicity of the hair and a fine silicone film is created over the hair surface, which smoothes and adds shine.

29. Film Formers
Setting Lotion Setting lotions are ideal for creating styles that require long-lasting control, such as pin curls. They can be used to great effect on sensitive, slightly damaged hair instead of using a more permanent form treatment.

30. Film Formers Benefits Long-lasting hold for all hair types.
Adds volume.
Hair is easier to handle during styling.
Gives hair shine.
Anti-static effect.
Adds care ingredient.

31. Film Formers
Water-based Film Formers These are applied in the same way as alcohol-based film formers. As they dry they become sticky and form bonds between the hair strands. It is this stickiness that helps deliver the final outcome, enabling the hair to be moulded into place before the product dries.

32. Film Formers
Water-based Film Formers When dry, a hard film keeps the style in place. Water takes longer to evaporate than alcohol, hence this type of product can be more flexible during the styling process.

33. Film Formers
Mousse Mousse is normally dispensed from a pressurised container. Ingredients vary to achieve a variety of hold strengths, protective and caring qualities, such as improved combability.

34. Film Formers
Mousse A combination of film formers and caring agents produces an elastic, stabilising film, preventing the hair from becoming too rigid, yet providing a degree of hold and volume.

35. Film Formers
Mousse Shampoo and heat treatments can change the surface of the hair by introducing a negative charge, which results in flyaway and unmanageable hair. The positively charged ion-balanced system in mousse neutralises this, reducing the static effect..

36. Film Formers
Mousse The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even distribution of the product.

37. Film Formers
Mousse The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even distribution of the product. Benefits Stabilizes hair without stickiness. Easy to apply, Non-drip application gives even coverage. Variety of hold strengths. Caring agents improve combability. Gives hair a natural sheen. Anti-static quality - manageable & easy to style. Easy to wash and brush out.

38. Film Formers
Gel Gel contains a variety of thickeners and the viscosity of the product texturizes the hair, giving a defined stiffness. Gel can be used sparingly, for definition, or built up into the hair to achieve a higher degree of volume and hold.

39. Film Formers
Gel Gel can be packaged in a variety of ways. The use of different applicators depends on personal preference and how the delivery of product affects the required style, for example a tube or pump dispenser allows more control over amount, while a tub allows greater access.

40. Film Formers
Gel Gel works by applying an adhesion between individual strands of hair. Ingredients can be added to the gel to achieve further benefits. Some gels contain additives to prevent the hair drying out and aid faster drying during the styling process. It is also possible to alter the composition to achieve different looks, such as a wet look or high-shine finish.

41. Film Formers Gel Benefits Gives shape, body and strength.
Film formers stabilize and give lasting hold.
Can accentuate individual strands.
Sculpts and moulds, even on porous hair.
Coats individual hairs quickly without running onto the scalp.

42. Film Formers
Styling Cream Styling cream is usually dispensed from a tube and contains a combination of film formers for hold, and additives for care. The film formers allow for easy combing and give optimal styling, producing an elastic film which creates hold.

43. Film Formers
Styling Cream The high spreading capability of cream is due to the molecular structure, which ensures that the hair is coated evenly with micro-fine film. Care ingredients give the hair shine and volume without weighing it down, making the hair soft and manageable. Styling creams have less hold than gels.

44. Film Formers Styling Cream Benefits
Easily distributed throughout hair.
Smoothes surface of hair.
Gives hair intensive sheen.
Makes hair easier to style.
Non-sticky.
Improves suppleness, particularly on dry hair.
Cares for dry hair or spilt ends.
Does not make hair heavy or greasy.
Easy to wash out.

45. Film Formers
Wax-based Film Formers These aid hold by creating seam welds and, when compared to alcohol or water-based products, bond larger amounts of hair together. The natural stickiness of wax bonds the hair together, creating strength that produces an independent hold for most hair types.

46. Film Formers
Wax-based Film Formers Wax is not water-soluble and does not dry; this helps create a flexible look that is also easy to restyle. Normally wax requires a shampoo to remove the product thoroughly from hair. If using wax regularly, occasional washing with a specialist shampoo, is recommended.

47. Film Formers
Wax Wax can be dispensed in a variety of formats, depending on personal preference, type of wax and what is most suitable for the desired style. Hard wax products are often dispensed in a stick format, whereas softer waxes are more commonly stored in a jar.

48. Film Formers
Combination Products Some products are a combination of more than one product type.