1. STAGES OF CLAY

2. 1. Plastic-ware-
Clay that is soft, pliable and easy to work with. Right out of the bag or the pug mill.
Dark Gray, Cold
You can: wedge, sculpt, form, connect pieces without wedging
You cannot: Fire, Carve

3. 2. Leather-hard-
Clay that has been allowed to dry slightly, making it stiffer and able to support its weight, but can still be worked on and have parts attached
Color/temp: Slightly lighter, cool to the touch
Can: Connect clay to clay via score and slip, can Carve, recycle
Cannot: Fire, manipulate or bend, wedge

4. 3. Bone dry-
Clay that has been allowed to dry all the way so that all of the moisture is gone and it is ready to fire the first time. The clay feels room temperature and slightly chalky/powdery
Can: Fire, Recycle it, Apply under-glaze
Cannot: Manipulate or form, Cannot connect pieces, no wedging!

5. 4. Greenware All stages that have not yet been fired:
Plastic, leather, and bone dry

6. 5. Bisque ware-
The first firing for the clay, removes all of the water, (both actual and chemical) and carbon, The fusing of the particles has begun, yet the clay is still porous to allow for glaze absorption.
Porous Rock like material- Lighter, harder
It can no longer be slaked down and recycled.

7. 6. Glaze ware-
The second firing of the clay with a coating of glaze upon its surface, it is fired to a higher temperature than bisque and therefore fuses the particles into a solid, non-porous state called vitrification.

8. What is a CONE? Temperature measurement system
BISQUE: ^ 06 = 1865 degrees
MID FIRE GLAZE: ^6 = 2195
HIGH FIRE GLAZE: ^9-10 = degrees

9. What is a Glaze?
A combination of flux, opacifiers, and oxides that is painted on bisque ware in liquid form and melts/transforms in the kiln and turns into a glass like surface.

10. FLUX: The ingredient that controls the melting temperature- Feldspar, Gerstley Borate, Lead (white and red)
OPACIFIERS:
Transparent- can see through
Translucent: Ability to absorb light
Opaque: Ability to reflect light
Different clay bodies
OXIDES:
This is the material in the glaze that adds color. Can be used just with water to create a stain.
Red Iron Oxide: Reds, Blacks, Browns
Cobalt Oxide: Blues, Greens

11. Engobes/Slips/ Underglazes
A Clay like body (substance) normally the consistency of heavy cream, with or with out color
Applied to green-ware (work that has not yet been fired, leather hard or bone dry)
Made up of: 10% Feldspar
35% Ballclay
5% Silica

12. What are some basic Glaze Application Techniques?
POUR
Use a small clean container to pour the glaze into and on your pottery
DUNK
Hold you piece under the glaze for at least 10 seconds for 1 layer, 5 seconds for a second layer
BRUSH
Use a clean brush to apply glaze in thick even strokes, do not wipe the brush back and forth, just apply in one direction-
Allow each layer to dry
Apply at least 3 layers

13. Types of Glazes in Studio 201
Oxides: Red iron oxide, copper oxide, chrome
Underglazes: (Applied to green-ware only)
Glazes- All cone 6- MID FIRE GLAZE: ^6 = 2195
Gloss Glazes
Opaque: Red, Yellow, Orange, Blues, Ohata Red
transparent: Celedon Green, Hot Orchid,
Textural Sculptural
Jade, Purple Sand, Cinnamon,
Crackle
Bright and Pale Blue
Amber

14. 1) Apply oxide or under-glaze on the outer surface of your bowl and
TANG DYNASTY ( )
Pinecone Glazed Pottery Vases
Wild Wings Pottery co.
1) Apply oxide or under-glaze on the
outer surface of your bowl and
remove excess with a damp sponge.
2) Apply a cone 04 gloss glaze on the
inside using a brush.
3) Make a map of your work and
keep a glaze record for everything
you glaze