Sewing Equipment Chapter 63

Sewing Machine Refer to Figure 63.1 for parts, page 608 Lockstitch = stitch that uses a thread above the fabric to join another thread (bobbin thread) coming from below the fabric

Feed dogs = two small rows of metal teeth that advance the fabric evenly for each stitch **operated by knee or foot control **hand-wheel raises and lowers the needle

Threading the Machine **all machines are different but basic steps are the same 1. thread goes from spool 2. to upper tension 3. to take-up lever 4. then down to the needle through needle guide

Bobbin = small spool that holds the bottom thread Make sure thread winds evenly, perhaps by guiding it between your fingers until the bobbin is about three-quarters full.

Adjusting Stitches Regular stitch Basting stitch Reinforcement stitch Medium-length stitch (10-12 stitches per inch) Basting stitch Long stitch (4 – 6 stitches per inch) Reinforcement stitch Short stitch (18-20 stitches per inch) Strengthens corners, etc

Zigzag stitch Specialty stitches Sideways stitch to finish seam allowances Specialty stitches Many machines have a variety

Machine Needles General or universal Ballpoint For most fabrics (all purpose) Ballpoint Rounded point for knits ***bent or damaged needles hurt machine ***won’t sew correctly

Caring for Machine **regularly clean and oil machines Also vacuum out dust bunnies, etc

Some computerized sewing machines allow sewers to use preprogrammed decorative stitches or to design their own. Manufacturers are now seeking ways to link sewers’ machines with their home computers to store custom stitches in the computer’s memory.

Other features include a motor that allows sewers to stitch on thick fabrics; an electronic sensor to signal that the bobbin is nearly empty; and other sensors that adjust thread tension to match the fabric and stitch selection.

Serger Over-lock sewing machine Trims, sews, and overcasts in one step See figure 63.2 Can be used like a sewing machine but does not replace it

2 Basic Stitches on Serger 1. Over-lock which is used for seams 2. Over-edge which finishes edges

Serger Parts Loopers = parts that perform as bobbins do on conventional sewing machine Cutting knives = one moveable and the other stationary to trim and smooth fabric

Serger cont… Special edge finishes and decorative stitching Special threads = lighter weight than normal threads (up to 5 on a serger) Differential feeds = provides different speeds for feeding fabric

Real Life Sergers were developed in the early 1900’s by manufacturers of military uniforms made of serge, a cloth woven in a twin pattern from woolen fibers. Sergers enabled the clothing manufacturers to provide a great many uniforms quickly and inexpensively.

The numbers used to identify a serger refer to the number of threads it uses. A 4/2 thread serger uses two or four threads; a 4/3 thread serger; three to four threads. Both types have two needles and two loopers.

A ruffling attachment on a serger can make it easier to sew ruffled pillows or curtains. The serger can gather fabric, attach the ruffle, and finish the seam, all at the same time. The serger’s rolled-hem stitch finishes sheer curtains for a delicate, billowy look.

Consumer Skills New sewers should buy a less expensive sewing machine and trade up as their skills improve. Many dealers take trade-ins and apply them toward the price of a new machine. As you consider buying a sewing machine or serger, try it out using fabrics you want to work on.

Measuring, Marking, Cutting Tools See figure 63.3, page 613 Brass or stainless steel pins are best for sewing; they won’t rust easily. For delicate fabrics, use ‘silk’ pins; they are very fine and don’t leave puncture marks. Loose pins damage sewing machine mechanisms and break the needle if sewn over.

Pressing Tools See figure 63.4, page 614

Troubleshooting Skills Skipped stitches= make sure needle size and type are right for fabric; rethread machine; loosen tension Bunching of thread = hold thread ends behind presser foot when starting to stitch

Troubleshooting cont….. Puckering; loosen tension; replace needle; shorten stitch length Thread breaks= check threading and needle; begin stitching more slowly Machine jams = check threading, needle position, and bobbin

Activity Describe the function of the item on the care while the class tries to identify it.

Activity 2 Comparing costs= list any sewing tools and equipment that you already have. What additional tools would you need to begin a sewing project? Estimate the cost of the tool, if the cost is too high, what other options might you have?

Activity 3 Sewing Sample Choose three different types of thread, and hand sew a line of running stitches with each. How does each one handle? Predict how each one might perform in a sewing machine or serger. Then use the threads to sew a sample of stitches on the sewing machine. What differences do you notice?