RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit 1. Why Waves? 2. Waves Features 3. Waves Observed.

Slides:

Advertisements

Similar presentations

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean ©2003 Jones and Bartlett Publishers.

Advertisements

Coastal Processes.

CHAPTER 8 Waves and Water Dynamics

Chapter 6 Opener. Figure 6.1 A rock tossed into a calm body of water generates surface gravity waves that propagate outward in all directions.

Introduction to Oceanography Dynamic Oceanography: Waves.

The first prelim will be held during regular class time on Thursday 21 February A short in-class review will be held Tuesday 19 February to go over student.

Topic 16 Waves GEOL 2503 Introduction to Oceanography.

Chapter 9: Waves and Water Dynamics Fig Waves are moving energy Forces cause waves to move along air/water or within water Wind (most surface ocean.

Waves Anatomy of wave – Wave- transmission of energy through matter – Longitudinal wave- matter oscillates in same direction of energy transmission –

Science Modules using the Mini Wave Tank (working document)

Waves. 2 3  Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force.  An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to.

  waimea-bay-cam

Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site. Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course.

The Dynamic Ocean Chapter 16.

Waves, beaches, & sand transport

Waves and Tides Wave movement and properties Wind and waves

Waves. Wave Terminology H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive.

Ocean Waves What causes ocean waves to form and move?

Ocean Waves & Tides. Waves The result of repeated and periodic disturbances that cause energy to be transported through water. Very little water is transported.

Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 1 ftp://ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu/opl/tommy/Geog3awinter2011/

Chapter 8 Waves and Water Dynamics

Waves Caused by wind, tides, and earthquakes STORMSSWELL SURF (energy in) (energy out) Waves move away from the sea that generated them; this energy can.

Coastal Processes and Hazards. Outline Why is this important? Definitions How waves work Interaction at shoreline Importance of beaches Human impacts.

Waves for Weather Weenies

Wind Waves…. Presented by: Saira Hashmi Nov 18 th, 2005 EPS 131 Introduction to Physical Oceanography.

Waves and Water Dynamics

Waves n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves.

© 2011 Pearson Education, Inc. CHAPTER 8 Waves and Water Dynamics.

N Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves.

Waves and things. Homework Due Tuesday Read Pages Answer in complete sentences What causes the Coriolis effect? How does the Coriolis effect wind.

WAVES By: Bridget Pettit & Victor Perez. Waves are a result of forces acting on the surface of the water. GENERATIONG FORCES : is a forces (ie rock or.

Waves in the Ocean. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. Parts of a wave are, Wave crest,Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wave Amplitude,

Ocean Waves Capillary Gravity Wind generated Tides Tsunamis Seiches.

Unit 3: Waves and tides.

Unit 3 – Oceanography Section 3: Currents, Waves, and Tides

These pictures have all been taken along coastlines. Why do they all look so different?

Chapter 21- 2,3 OCEAN WAVES. Wave  Disturbance of energy transmitted through a medium  Medium- solid- liquid-gas  Crest-highest point in a wave  Trough-lowest.

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean.

WAVES. Wave – propagation of energy through a medium. Speed is determined by the properties of the medium. Gravity waves – sufficiently large waves where.

Waves Waves result from interplay between disturbing forces & restoring forces In the oceans, disturbances originate –At the surface, winds, ships, etc.

Waves Chapter 9.

The Waves An Introduction to the World’s Oceans Sverdrup et al. - Chapter Ten - 8th Ed.

OCEAN WAVES Waves & Tides Unit 7. DEFINITION OF A WAVE: The disturbance of a medium (water in this case) caused by the movement of energy from a source.

Waves. What is a wave?  a transmission of energy through matter.

WAVES and TIDES Section 2.3 page 64 WAVES Large ripples set in motion by steady winds Waves on the surface of water are the result of a transfer of energy.

Waves. Wave: A periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted through a medium (such as air, water, or rock).

Physical Oceanography Surface Gravity Waves Properties Dispersion Refraction & Diffraction Group velocity Generation Assignment: Read Chapter 16 of Stewart:

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Which does not affect coastal topography?

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Lab 5 WAVES. What is waves ? how do waves form? Wave is a movement of upper surface of water due to transfer of energy from the wind into the water without.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Waves and Water Dynamics

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Waves, Tides, and Currents

Fur Fun: Riding Giants

Waves in the Ocean.

Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves

WAVES The motion of the ocean

Where does the land end? Tuesday, 30 July 2019.

“Waves & Tides” 16.2.

Presentation transcript:

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit 1. Why Waves? 2. Waves Features 3. Waves Observed

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Why Waves?  Critical Factor for Coastal Region  Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction  Coastal economy  Safety  Shipping & Boating: ocean routes, coastal lanes  Coastal Destruction: storm surges, tsunamis  Coastal and Offshore Engineering  Shore Protection, Structures: design, survival  Mechanism for restoring natural equilibrium  Energy Source: Wave & Tidal Power

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Specific Examples Vessel Berthing Structure Design Sediment Transport Estuary Processes Air / Sea Interaction Oil Spill Response

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Vessel Berthing Direction #1 Direction #2 Biased Direction

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Structure Design To Build A Jetty Direction #1 Direction #2 Biased Direction

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Sediment Transport Direction #1 Direction #2 Biased Direction

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Background Wave characteristics Wave characteristics  Periodic oscillation that propagates through space  Transfers energy but not mass Engineering & Science Interest: Energy Variation Engineering & Science Interest: Energy Variation  With frequency  With direction (and frequency)

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Describing Waves Frequency (time variation) Frequency (time variation) sets Wavelength for wave type Direction (propagation through space) Direction (propagation through space) Height (2 x amplitude) Height (2 x amplitude) Energy  (height 2 ) x wavelength Energy  (height 2 ) x wavelength

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Wave Words Figures taken from Oceanography of the British Columbia Coast, Richard E. Thompson

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Background 1-d … wave propagates along line 1-d … wave propagates along line  Single wave: sinusoidal variation, amplitude, period  Wave group 2-d … wave propagates across plane: direction 2-d … wave propagates across plane: direction Two classes: long & short wavelength Two classes: long & short wavelength  Relative to water depth  Energy of short waves decays with depth

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Two Wave Types

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Wave Orbits

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Orbital Currents

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Background Two categories: sea and swell (co-exist) Two categories: sea and swell (co-exist)  Sea  High frequency, short waves  Surface variation appears random (snapshot)  Energy from local winds  Swell  Lower frequency, longer waves  Surface appears corrugated (more coherent), movement of crests more apparent  Energy from distant storms

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Waves Spectrum WIND SUN, MOON STORMS, TSUNAMIS Tides

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Storms & Swell Strength Strength Duration Duration Fetch Fetch

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Storms & Swell

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Waves at Beach

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Refraction at Headland

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Reflection, Standing Waves

RD Instruments Home of the ADCP Coastal & Inland Business Unit Background Wave Group: More than one wave Wave Group: More than one wave  Interfere (reinforce, attenuate)  Amplitude of resulting wave shape can vary along line (e.g. sets of waves arriving at beach) Boundaries: reflections, standing wave Boundaries: reflections, standing wave Resonance: forcing at natural oscillation period of system leads to efficient transfer of energy Resonance: forcing at natural oscillation period of system leads to efficient transfer of energy