1. Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves
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2. Surfing The Big Ones
Running the Curl
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3. Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves
Waves transmit energy across the ocean’s surface.
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4. Look For the Following Key Ideas
* Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean’s surface.
* Waves are classified by the source;
Wind, Gravity , Tsunamis( earthquake or volcano) , Tides ( moon)
* The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the wave’s size and the depth of water through which it is moving.
Deep water= ½ wavelength Shallow water=1/20 wavelength
( Faster) ( Slower) *
Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can
interfere with one another, and reflect from solid objects.
At a steepness of 1/7 wave height to wave length a wave is unstable
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5. Beach Waves
Sandy Beach Waves
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6. Ocean Waves
What are the parts of an ocean wave?
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7. Classifying Waves
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8. Deep Water Waves, Shallow Water Waves
Note the importance of the relationship between wavelength and depth in determining wave type.
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9. Surfing is all about waves
Not Virginia Beach
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10. What factors affect wind wave development?
Wind strength - wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
Wind duration - winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves
Fetch - the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction
Gravity ( + Wind) ~~~ Surf ~~~~ Swells ~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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12. Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development
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13. Interference And Rogue Waves
When waves meet up, they interfere with one another.
Wave interference can be:
Destructive interference – two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
Constructive interference – additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
Rogue waves - these freak waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
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14. Wind Waves Approaching Shore
What happens when wind waves break against the shore?
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15. Wind Waves Approaching Shore
What different ways can waves break against the shore?
Wave dynamics depends upon the degree of Slope of the bottom.
BREAKERS
Spilling waves occur on gradually sloping ocean bottoms. The crest of a spilling wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore. East coast
Plunging waves break violently against the shore, leaving an air-filled tube, or channel, between the crest and foot of the wave. Plunging waves are formed when waves approach a shore over a more sharply sloped bottom. Surfer’s delight! California and Hawaii
Surging waves barely break after scraping a steep sloped bottom.
Collapsing waves encounter the steepest slope and loose energy so that they break back on themselves. Atolls / some islands
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16. Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection
What can affect the way that waves travel?
Wave refraction - the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water.
Wave diffraction - propagation of a wave around an obstacle
Wave reflection - occurs when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter. Reflected waves can cause interference with oncoming waves, creating standing waves.
Standing waves are found in inlets and bays
They remain in a fixed position
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17. Internal Waves
Waves that occur at the boundaries of water layers with different densities are called internal waves.
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18. Waves on Rocky Shore
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19. Waves Come in all sizes
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20. Tsunami Generation
Propagated from Fault
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21. Tsunami Generated Wave
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22. Summary
Ocean waves are visual proof of the transmission of energy across the surface of the ocean.
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23. The End
Phyllis Butler
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