The rules of pattern layout and cutting Symbol Syntax The rules of pattern layout and cutting

Straight of Grain (GRAINLINE) A line with arrows on both ends means that this line needs to be parallel with the selvage edge.

Place on Fold This means that when your fabric is folded the side of the pattern piece with this symbol should be placed on the edge of the fold. You do not cut the folded edge.(Like a paper heart)

Cutting Lines and Sizes Patterns come in different sizes. On a multi size pattern cut the pattern on the dotted or dashed line that is the right size for you. On a One Size Pattern the SOLID LINE is the cutting line, the dashed line is the sewing line.

Notches These are triangle shapes marks that you cut into, or around your fabric to show you how to line up pattern pieces.

Button Placement/Buttonholes The “X” shows where the button should be sewn onto and the other mark is where you should make the button hole

Circles, dots, and squares Symbols used for placement

Alteration marks Pattern markings to let you know how to change a pattern to fit you. A double line is the lengthen or shorten line.

Darts- Press these on a tailors ham.

Pattern Piece Placement

Cutting Line and Seam Allowance The solid line is for cutting The dotted line is the seam allowance

Selvage Edge The Edge that won’t fray The tightly woven edges on two of the opposite sides of the fabric Parallel to the lengthwise grains

Pre-shrinking (Pre-wash) Always preshrink your fabric before you cut out patterns This is the first step to any project This helps your project to be the size you intended Avoids any problems shrinking differences

Nap or one way directional fabric Nap- Velvet, corduroy Fabric has to be facing a certain way for all printed pictures to be facing right side up Often extra fabric must be purchase to make sure you have enough Check the *key Has a different layout than regular fabric

Grains Lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage edge Crosswise grain is perpendicular (or at a 90 degree angle) to the selvage edge.

So….what is a pattern symbol? Marks on pattern pieces to help you identify, lay out, cut, mark and sew each piece. Pattern symbols can also tell you where to lengthen, shorten or otherwise alter a pattern piece.

Recognizing pattern symbols What is the difference between a straight of grain arrow and a place on the fold arrow? Straight of grain needs to parallel to, but not on the selvage edge Place on fold means the edge of the pattern piece needs to be place ON the folded edge.

How do you know when to transfer a pattern symbol? 1. If the symbol does not get cut out as part of the pattern, such as notches 2. If you need the mark for correct placement of other pieces, such as pockets, sleeves or collars. 3. If you need to sew something in the middle of a pattern, such as tucks, darts, pleats, or button holes

Transfer pattern symbols after you cut out your pattern but before you remove your pattern.

Tracing Wheel and Paper Best used when you are transferring larger symbols with straight lines, such as darts. Less effective for symbols like placement dots or button placement markings

Tracing wheel and carbon paper 1. Use a paper color that you will be able to see on your fabric 2. Place the colored, waxy side against the wrong side of your fabric 3. Rematch the pattern and fabric ends 4. Mark all symbols by pressing down firmly on the wheel and using short strokes

Pin and chalk Instructions STEP 1: Transfer marks using pins and a chalk fabric pencil or marking pen. STEP 2: Support fabric with one hand, and insert pins through all layers of fabric along outline of pattern mark. STEP 3: Carefully turn pattern piece over and use marking pencil or pen to mark where the pins are placed in the fabric STEP 4: Turn pattern piece over so that tissue side is facing up. STEP 5: Remove Pattern. Once again, follow the outline made by the marking pins to trace the pattern mark onto your fabric.

What is a guidesheet? Step by step instructions for construction Directions found inside the pattern envelope.

What do you find on a guidesheet? Step by step instructions (Directions) Pattern layout/ Cutting layout Fabric Key Glossary of terms and symbols Pieces