Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Chapter 28 Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

Learning Objectives Explain monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancement chemistry and how it works. Name the specific tools, equipment, and supplies required to perform monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements. List the steps to apply nonacid and acid-free nail primers. Explain how to properly store monomer liquid and polymer powder products. (continues) 2

Learning Objectives (continued) Describe the apex, stress area, and sidewall, and tell where each is located on the nail enhancement. Describe how to perform a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using monomer liquid and polymer powder. Demonstrate how to perform crack repair procedures. (continues) 3

Learning Objectives (continued) Implement the proper procedure for removing monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements. Describe the general process for using odorless products. List two ways to create nail art from monomer liquid and polymer powder. WHY STUDY MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS? Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements are popular services that will be frequently requested, and clients will expect expert service. Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements are lucrative services. Clients who desire them are committed to their upkeep, so if you earn clients’ trust and respect, you will build a loyal clientele. Knowing how to properly work with the enhancement material and understanding its chemical makeup will allow you to perform the service safely for you and for your client. 4

Introduction Chemical make-up of monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancements The specific tools, equipment, and supplies needed Liquid monomers and powder polymers can be used: To place enhancements over a natural nail, over a tip or over a form To create beautiful nail art INTRODUCTION In this chapter, you will learn about the chemical make-up of monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancements, as well as all of the specific tools, equipment, and supplies needed to perform the various services that would utilize these products. Liquid monomers and powder polymers can be used: To place enhancements over a natural nail Over a tip Over a form To create beautiful nail art 5

LESSON ACTIVITY 1 Have students discuss their experience with nail enhancements. Has anyone in the class received an acrylic service or a gel service? What do the students know about enhancements? 6

Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Monomer means “one unit” (unit being a molecule) Polymer means “many units” (many molecules) When mixed together, they form a long, chain-like structures that create nail enhancements which can be applied over the natural nail, a tip, a form, or can be used to sculpt nail art. CONVEY THE CHEMISTRY OF MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, also known as sculptured nails, are created by combining a chemical known as monomer liquid mixed with polymer powder, to form a nail enhancement. Acrylic: You may also hear this product referred to as acrylic. Monomer: Mono means one and mer stands for units, so monomer is one unit called a molecule. Polymer: Poly means many, so polymer means a substance formed by combining many small molecules (monomers) into very long, chain-like structures. They come in a variety of colors which can be blended and customized to your client. See Procedure 28-1, One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Over Nail Tips or Natural Nails, found on page 968 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. (continues) 7

Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued) EMA – ethyl methacrylate monomer, which is the industry standard Odorless – has a lower odor than the traditional monomer MMA – methyl methacrylate monomer, which is not recommended for use on nails and is not legal according to the state board rules in some states CONVEY THE CHEMISTRY OF MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (continued) The monomer liquid can come in three forms: EMA: Ethyl methacrylate monomer which is the industry standard. Odorless: Also an industry standard; however, has a lower odor than the traditional monomer. MMA: Methyl methacrylate monomer which is not recommended for use on nails and is not legal according to the state board rules in some states. MMA also does not adhere well to the nail plate, creates the hardest and most rigid nail enhancements which makes them very difficult to break, is difficult to remove, and the FDA says do not use it due to a large number of consumer complaints. (continues) 8

Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued) Polymer powder is made up of polymerization, also known as curing or hardening, a chemical reaction that creates polymers. CONVEY THE CHEMISTRY OF MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (continued) Polymer powder is made up of polymerization, also known as curing or hardening, a chemical reaction that creates polymers. Initiators are found in polymer powder, when activated by a catalyst will spring into action an cause monomer molecules to permanently link together into long polymer chains. Creating polymers can be thought of as a chain reaction, also known as polymerization reaction. 9

Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Nail dehydrator Nail primer SPECIFY THE SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Monomer liquid: This will be combined with polymer powder to form the nail enhancement. Mix ratio between liquid and powder should be 1½:1. Polymer powder: Polymer powder is available in white, clear, natural, pink, as well as other colors. Nail dehydrator: This removes all of the moisture on the nail plate. Nail primer: Applied to the natural nail to assist with product adhesion. Safety tips when using primer Never apply nail enhancement product over wet nail primer. It causes discoloration. Avoid overuse of nail primers. Apply primer to the natural nail only. Check primer for clarity to ensure product integrity. Never use primers that have debris floating in them. To apply acid based primers: apply to natural nail with a light dotting action towards the center of the nail. The primer will spread evenly. To apply non-acid or acid-free primers: apply to the natural nail covering the entire nail with three brush strokes. (continues) 10

Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued) Abrasives Nail forms Nail tips SPECIFY THE SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (continued) Abrasives: The grit number on the abrasive refers to how many grits of sand per square inch. The lower the number, the rougher it will feel. A coarse abrasive: 100 grit or lower A medium grit abrasive: 150 – 180 grit A fine grit abrasive: 240 grit or higher A shiner (buffer): 400/1000/4000 grit Nail forms are placed under the free edge of the natural nail and used as a guide, to extend the nail enhancements beyond the fingertips for additional length. Single-use (disposable) nail forms often are made of paper or Mylar and coated with adhesive backs. Multiuse (reusable) nail forms are made of pre-shaped plastic or aluminum and can be cleaned and disinfected between clients. Nail tips that are made from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) or tenite acetate plastic are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles, and colors. See Procedure 27-1, Nail Tip Application, found on page 935 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 28-2, Two-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Using Forms, found on page 972, of Milady Standard Cosmetology. (continues) 11

Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued) Dappen dish Monomer liquid and polymer powder application brush Safety eyewear Dust masks Protective gloves SPECIFY THE SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (continued) Dappen dish: Small dishes that hold monomer liquid and polymer powder. Monomer liquid and polymer powder application brush: A natural bristle brush such as a natural kolinsky, sable, or a blend of both. Safety eyewear: Safety goggles to protect the eyes from accidental splashes and flying objects. Dust masks: These are designed to be worn over the nose and mouth to prevent inhalation of excessive amounts of dust. Protective gloves: Disposable or multi-use gloves can be used for protection. 12

Storing and Disposing of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Products Store monomer liquid and polymer powder products in a covered container. Mix liquid and powder together before discarding if there is a small amount. Liquid and powder should not be discarded in the trash directly. It should be poured in a paper towel and secured in a plastic bag and then disposed of properly. STORING AND DISPOSING OF MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER PRODUCTS Store monomer liquid and polymer powder products in a covered container. Mix liquid and powder together before discarding if there is a small amount. Liquid and powder should not be discarded in the trash directly. It should be poured in a paper towel and secured in a plastic bag and then disposed of according to local rules and regulations. 13

Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Maintenance helps prevent lifting or cracking. Proper maintenance must be performed every two to three weeks. COMPLETE MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENT MAINTENANCE, CRACK REPAIR, AND REMOVAL Regular maintenance helps prevent nail enhancements from lifting or cracking. When a nail has been broken, however, it can be repaired. Crack repair is when a piece or section of the monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancement has broken, lifted, or cracked. It is repaired by filing the area and adding monomer liquid and polymer powder to it. This is called a crack repair. Maintenance: Proper maintenance must be performed every two to three weeks, depending on how fast the client’s nails grow. Maintenance service: The nail enhancement is thinned down to blend with the new growth area of the natural nail. The apex of the nail is filed away, and the entire nail enhancement is reduced in thickness to prepare for an overlay of new product. See Procedure 28-3, One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Maintenance, found on page 977 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 28-4, Crack Repair for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements, found on page 980 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 14

Properly Structured Nail Enhancements Apex Stress area Smile line Sidewall Nail extension underside PROPERLY STRUCTURED NAIL ENHANCEMENTS The apex is also known as the arch. This is the area with the most strength. The stress area is where the natural nail grows beyond the finger and becomes the free edge. The smile line is a curved line where the pink and white meet each other on a French manicured nail. The sidewall runs straight from the cuticle down the side or wall of the nail to the end of the extension. The nail extension underside is the actual underside of the nail extension. 15

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal Soak the enhancements off of the nail using acetone or the manufacturer’s suggested removal solution. Remove the enhancement, and complete the service. MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENT REMOVAL Soak the enhancements off of the nail using acetone or the manufacturer’s suggested removal solution Remove the enhancement and complete the service. See Procedure 28-5, Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal, found on page 982 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 16

Describe Odorless Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Products Different chemistry than other monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancements Have a slight odor Used with a dry mix ratio DESCRIBE ODORLESS MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER PRODUCTS Odorless monomer liquid and polymer powder products are nail products that have little odor. They do not necessarily have the same chemistry as all other monomer liquid and polymer powder products. 17

Utilize Colored Polymer Powder Products Available in a wide range of colors that mimic almost every shade available in nail polish. Nail artistry is limited only by your imagination. Some professionals use colors to offer custom-blended colors. UTILIZE COLORED POLYMER POWDER PRODUCTS Polymer powders are now available in a wide range of colors that mimic almost every shade available in nail polish. Nail artistry with colored polymer powder is limited only by your imagination. Some professionals use colors to go beyond the traditional pink and white French manicure combinations and offer custom-blended colors to their clients. 18

Create Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Art 3-D nail art – any art that protrudes from the nail. Inlaid designs – designs inside a nail enhancement, created when nail art is sandwiched between two layers of product while the nail enhancement is being formed. Nail Art by Alisha Rimando Botero. CREATE MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER NAIL ART 3-D nail art describes any art that protrudes from the nail. Inlaid designs are designs inside a nail enhancement, are created when nail art is sandwiched between two layers of product while the nail enhancement is being formed. 19

Summary and Review In this chapter, you learned about the chemical make-up of monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancements, as well as all of the specific tools, equipment, and supplies needed to perform the various services that would utilize these products. Liquid monomers and powder polymers can be used to place enhancements over a natural nail, over a tip, or over a form, as well as using it to create beautiful nail art. SUMMARY AND REVIEW In this chapter, you learned about the chemical make-up of monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancements, as well as all of the specific tools, equipment, and supplies needed to perform the various services that would utilize these products. Liquid monomers and powder polymers can be used to place enhancements over a natural nail, over a tip, or over a form, as well as using it to create beautiful nail art. 20

Chapter Review Questions What is the chemistry behind ML/PP and how does it work? What are the definitions of apex, stress area, and sidewall, and where is their location on the nail enhancement? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. What is the chemistry behind ML/PP and how does it work? Answer: Nail enhancements are formed by combining the two chemicals. Catalysts are added to the monomer liquid to speed up the chemical reactions and used to control the set or curing time. When the monomer liquid is mixed with the powder, a bead forms on the end of the brush and quickly begins to harden. The initiators found in the polymer powder will be activated by the catalyst, which cause monomer molecules to permanently link together into long polymer chains. This action is referred to as the polymerization process. 2. What are the definitions of apex, stress area, and sidewall, and where is their location on the nail enhancement? Answer: The apex is also known as the arch, which is the area of the nail with the most strength. The stress area is where the natural nail grows beyond the finger and becomes the free edge. The sidewall runs straight from the cuticle down the side or wall of the nail the end of the extension.  (continues) 21

Chapter Review Questions (continued) What is the proper procedure for applying one-color monomer and polymer nail enhancements over tips and on natural nails? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 3. What is the proper procedure for applying one-color monomer and polymer nail enhancements over tips and on natural nails? Answer: The procedure is as follows: Clean the nails; gently file or buff the nail plate; apply nail dehydrator; apply tips (optional); apply nail primer; pour monomer liquid and polymer powder into dappen dishes; dip the brush into the monomer liquid and wipe on the edge of the dish; dip the tip of the same brush into polymer powder and rotate slightly to pick up a bead of product; place the product in the center of the free edge; use the belly of the brush to smooth and shape the product; place a second bead on the nail plate; use the belly of the brush to smooth and shape the product; pick up smaller bead and apply it at the back of the nail by the base of the nail plate; use the brush to press and smooth; apply more product near the eponychium, sidewalls, and free edge if needed; use a 180-grit abrasive to shape the free edge and to remove imperfections; buff the nail enhancement; apply oil. (continues) 22

Chapter Review Questions (continued) What is the proper procedure for applying two-color monomer and polymer nail enhancements using forms? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 4. What is the proper procedure for applying two-color monomer and polymer nail enhancements using forms? Answer: The procedure is as follows: Clean the nails; gently file or buff the nail plate; apply nail dehydrator; position the nail form; apply nail primer; pour monomer liquid and polymer powder into dappen dishes; dip the brush into the monomer liquid and wipe on the edge of the dish; dip the tip of the same brush into polymer powder and rotate slightly to pick up a bead of product; place the white product in the center of the base of the nail to create the lunula; use the belly of the brush to smooth and shape the product; place a second bead of the white product on the free edge (form) to create the free edge; use the belly of the brush to smooth and shape the product; apply the pink product in the center of the nail to create the body of the nail; use the brush to press and smooth; use a 180-grit abrasive to shape the free edge and to remove imperfections; buff the nail enhancement; apply oil.   (continues) 23

Chapter Review Questions (continued) What is the proper procedure for performing a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using monomer liquid and polymer powder? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 5. What is the proper procedure for performing a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using monomer liquid and polymer powder? Answer: The procedure is as follows: Remove existing polish and gently push back the cuticles; file flat against the existing product, carefully smooth down the ledge until it is flush with the new growth of the nail plate. Smooth out any areas of product that may be lifting or forming pockets; glide the abrasive over the entire enhancement to reshape and refine; use a medium-fine abrasive or buffer to smooth the product and blend it into new growth; remove dust; apply nail dehydrator; apply nail primer; prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder; pick up one or more small beads or enhancement product and place at the natural nail area, the regrowth; use the brush to smooth these beads over the new growth area; pick up one or more small beads of enhancement product and place them at the center of apex of the nail; use the brush to smooth these beads over the entire nail enhancements. Glide the brush over the nail to smooth out imperfections. Allow nails to harden and then shape with an abrasive board. Buff the enhancements; apply oil. (continues) 24

Chapter Review Questions (continued) How is a crack repair performed? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 6. How is a crack repair performed? Answer: The procedure is as follows: Remove existing polish; gently file the nail surface with a medium/fine abrasive; file a V-shape into the crack or file flush to remove the crack; buff and remove dust; apply nail primer to any exposed natural nail in the crack; if the crack needs support, apply a nail form; prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder; press and smooth the enhancement product to fill the crack; apply additional beads, if needed, to fill in the crack or reinforce the rest of the nail; remove form; reshape nail enhancement; buff the nail enhancement; apply oil. (continues) 25

Chapter Review Questions (continued) How are monomer liquid and polymer powder removed from the nail? List a variety of ways to create nail art for monomer liquid and polymer powder. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 7. How are monomer liquid and polymer powder removed from the nail? Answer: The procedure is as follows: Have client wash hands thoroughly. Fill glass bowl with acetone to cover ½” higher than the client’s enhancements. Place the client’s nails into the bowl and cover the hands with a hand towel if desired. Use a wooden or metal pusher to gently push off the softened enhancement. Repeat until all enhancements have been removed. Lightly buff the nails. Apply oil.  8. List a variety of ways to create nail art for monomer liquid and polymer powder. Answer: Monomer liquid and polymer powder can be used to create 3-D art or inlaid art. 26