Unit B8: Provide make-up services Chapter 7 Unit B8: Provide make-up services

Objectives At the end of this chapter you will be able to: maintain safe and effective methods of working when providing make-up services consult, plan and prepare for make up services apply make-up products provide aftercare advice. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Key words Blemished Bridal Bronzer Concealers Contra-actions Contraindications Cream Daylight Dehydrated Diversity Epidermis Ethnicity Face shapes Filament lighting Florescent lighting Iron oxide Legislation Lesson Liquid Mature Micro-dermabrasion Minors Package Pencil Powders Skin colours Skin types Special occasion Tones Beauty Therapy Level 2

Introduction The effect of professionally applied make-up should not be under-estimated. Make-up services include bridal, portrait shots, make-up lessons, and special occasion make-up. A skilled make-up artist uses their knowledge of light and shade and skin tones and how they can be enhanced with carefully selected products. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Legal requirements 1 Treatment room Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992 Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 General safety of staff and visitors to the salon including clients. Governs the working environment including ventilations, temperature and lighting etc. Covers how to evacuate a building in an emergency such as a fire. Equipment Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 Governs the acquisition of safe and reliable equipment. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Legal requirements 2 Make-up products Control of Substances Hazardous to Health 1988 Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations (2008) Governs the exposure of persons to substances likely to cause harm including flammability and the effect on the tissues. Requires cosmetics to comply with correct labelling to have safe formulation and be fit for the purpose intended. Disposal of Waste The Controlled Waste Regulations 1992 Governs the correct disposal of contaminated waste, i.e. contaminated with blood or other bodily fluids. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Legal requirements 3 Other legal requirements include those that apply when providing treatments for minors, avoiding discrimination and complying with data protection law (Date Protection Act). With the increase in make-over parties for 7–16 year olds, therapists or make-up consultants should have an extended CRB (Criminal Records Bureau) check and written consent as well as the presence of a guardian or parent. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Treatment times Treatment Time Make-up application, e.g. for special party or photograph. 30 minutes Make-up lesson: a more in-depth treatment that gives away some of the make-up artist’s tips. 60 minutes Make-up package: two-stage make-up for a special event. Trying out of different products and looks that suit the client, then application on the day of the event. Trial: 90 minutes Event: 30 minutes Beauty Therapy Level 2

Safe working practices Follow set-up rules, making sure that the area is clean, tidy and that all utensils are sterile. Client will expect you to be clean and presentable. Suitable cosmetics and products should be available with a good set of brushes for the different areas of the make up routine. Disposable and consumables should be ready. Position yourself and the client to ensure comfort and correct posture. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Lighting Different lighting will subtly change the make-up application. Daylight bulbs have a pure white light and do not create shadows. True representation of the make-up. Florescent lighting uses blue-white bulbs that tend to create a cold feel to the make-up. Creates shadows as light is directed downwards. Filament light bulbs give yellowish tones to the make-up, dulling blue-toned colours and darkening red tones. Creates sharp shadows. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Product hygiene 1 Tools/Equipment Use Sterilising/Hygiene method Brushes Universal make up tool Brush cleaner at least 70% alcohol. Dip and blot onto tissue. Shampoo and condition occasionally. Wash brushes, place in sterilising fluid. Do not wet the join between brush bristles as result will be separation. Sponges To apply cream and liquid products Wash in hot soapy water then submerge in sterilising liquid for recommended time. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Product hygiene 2 Powder puffs Apply face powders to set foundation base. Machine wash as recommended to 60oC. Fingers Apply products, smudging. Wash hands before and after each client with anti bacterial soap. Sharpeners/spatulas/scissors/palette Maintain hygiene state of make up products. Clean away residue and sterilise in sterilising fluid. For liquid and cream products, pencils and powders, where possible remove the required amount from the palette. Keep lids closed and use disposable applicators, e.g. mascara brushes. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up services To obtain a perfect make-up, a perfect base is required. Knowledge of the skin is vital. Therapist needs knowledge of cleansing, toning and moisturising as well as skin structure, function and disorders, disease and damage. Restrictive and preventative contraindications should be observed. Make-up is very personal so a full and comprehensive consultation should be taken into account. Adhere to the Data Protection Act with regards to client records. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Contraindications 1 Conditions that prevent treatment include: infectious skin conditions, e.g. herpes simplex and impetigo parasitic infections, e.g. pediculosis and scabies eye infections such as conjunctivitis severe skin conditions, e.g. acne, boils, herpes zoster, warts severe medical conditions. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Contraindications 2 Conditions that restrict treatment include: recent scar tissue, eczema, hyperkeratosis, skin allergies, bruising, styes, watery eyes, recent cosmetic surgery, tattoos or piercings, recent laser and microdermabrasion. Any contra-actions that may follow treatment should be explained to the client beforehand so that the client is fully informed and can then make a decision to go ahead with the service. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up products 1 Foundation evens out minor imperfections and protects the skin. Liquid can be water-based for oilier skins or oil-based for dry skins. Creams (light mousse, stick or compact) combine waxes, oils and fats with pigments to give variety of textures. Mineral-based powders give a range of tones to provide coverage. Contain no fillers that can cause allergies. Many also provide sun protection. Tinted moisturisers give light coverage for skins that are blemish free. Contain oils and light pigments to give a shimmer effect. Match foundation as closely as possible to the skin tone of client. Cool skin tones work well in beige, rosy shades. Warm skin tones tend to work well with golden tones. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up products 2 Concealer disguises minor imperfections, e.g. red veins, pigmentation, dark circles, skin blemishes. Usually cream-based in stick form, in skin tones or lilac, green and yellow tones. Face powders ‘set’ cream concealers and foundations to reduce shine and for lasting effect. There are loose, compact, translucent, skin tone shades and metallic. Bronzing products give sun-kissed look to the skin. Similar to face powders. Usually applied with a brush if powder. Gels and liquid bronzers give a light coverage. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up products 3 Cheek products (blusher or rouge) give a natural blush to the skin for healthy glow. Eye products – creams, powders and mousse are now available. Select carefully to enhance features. Eyeliners can be liquid, block or pencil. Selection of iridescent/matte/shimmer for evening events. Lip products (lipsticks, pencils, lip liners, lip gloss, lip balm) can give long-lasting colour, light shine or high gloss, lip treatments or various combinations of these. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Choosing foundation Skin type Foundation type Normal Tinted moisturiser, mineral based, liquid or mousse Oily Water-based liquid, mineral based or compact Dry Cream, stick or tinted moisturiser Combination Liquid, mineral based, compact or mousse Mature Cream or oil based, liquid or stick Sensitive Hypo-allergenic liquid, cream or mineral based Dehydrated Mousse, mineral based or cream Blemished Medicated liquid or mineral based Beauty Therapy Level 2

Products for age groups Product type 16–30 years Foundation – water-based liquid, mineral based, compact mousse, tinted moisturiser Cheek products – liquid tints, mineral based, powder Eye products – gel, liquid, powder, mineral based Lip products – gloss, lipstick, lip balm 31–50 years Foundation – oil-based liquid, mousse, light cream Cheek products – powder, mineral based Eye products – powder, mineral based Lip products – lipstick, lip balm, lip liner Over 50 years Foundation – cream, stick, tinted moisturiser Cheek products – cream, liquid tints Eye products – avoid high shimmer, use cream, gel, waterproof mascara and pencil eyeliner Lip products – avoid high gloss, use lip liner to avoid ‘bleeding’ of lipstick Beauty Therapy Level 2

Corrective make-up Corrective make up is the use of shading and light to correct and enhance features of the face. Simple rule – highlight what you want to ‘bring forward’, shade features to ‘recede’. Face shapes – oval, heart, oblong, diamond, square, round and pear. Eye shapes – close set, wide set, round or prominent, over-hanging, deep set, small, downward slanting, narrow eyes. Lip shapes – thin, full, unbalanced, drooping, asymmetric, small, wide, ageing lips. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up styles 1 Day make-up – soft and natural, with perfect, well-blended lines, minimal highlighting and colour correction. Evening make-up – bright or subtle colours. Make-up application is normally bolder and uses shading and highlighting. Careful consideration should be given to the venue, clothes, accessories and personality of the client. Special occasion make up – photograph, Christmas party, bridal. Bridal is mainly viewed in daylight then moves to evening. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Make-up styles 2 Photographic make-up may use strong lights, diffusers or reflectors. Airbrush make-up (spraying a fine liquid) may be used to give a flawless finish. Can create some wonderful effects. Highlighting and shading should be used as the light normally ‘bleaches’ the natural cheekbones. Ensure the make-up is set and that translucent powder is available throughout to reset. Airbrushing may be done to erase any flaws and imperfections. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Aftercare advice Possible contra-actions to make-up include: excessive perspiration, caused by nerves, or when environment is very warm. Waterproof products can combat this. watery eyes. Treated by using waterproof make-up and cream products. excessive erythema. Skin may be sensitive to touch, heat, products and exposure to sun. Treat susceptible clients with non-allergenic products. Adverse skin reactions, e.g. erythema, irritation, swelling indicate an allergic reaction. If effects are severe, refer to medical practitioner. Beauty Therapy Level 2

Home-care advice Make-up treatments give opportunity for retail. Ensure products meet client’s lifestyle requirements. Correct foundation is important. Client may require advice on other make-up products and application tools. Offer client advice on make-up removal as well as skin-care products. Beauty Therapy Level 2