Classifications of Haircolor Four basic categories of haircolor, chemical effect on the hair, and examples of use

Objective : You will be learn how each category of haircoloring has a unique chemical composition, which, in turn, affects the final color result and how long it will last, due to hair porosity

Four categories Temporary Semi-permanent Demi-permanent Permanent

Hair Highlighting Often referred to as “ bleaching” or “ decolorizing “ Diffuses natural or artificial color pigment from hair Contains developer an oxidizing agent Also contains an alkalizing ingredient Opens cuticle so tint can penetrate Oxidation reaction Lightening action

Temporary color Deposit only No lasting effect on color of the hair Physical change only No patch test required Coats the hair shaft Pigment molecules are large and do not penetrate the cuticle layer

Temporary color Advantages Chief advantage does not alter the structure of the hair doesn’t if affect the client’s own natural color Gives temporary color for clients who do not want permanent color Quick and easy to apply, washes out easily, Enhance & add brighter tones to dull, mousey hair Blends in a certain amount of gray with natural shades Neutralizes any unwanted tones in the hair Correct faded color until the client arranges for a more permanent solution

Temporary color Disadvantages Must be reapplied after every shampoo Color results may be uneven, especially if enough rinse is not applied Color will run w/moisture or perspiration, rub off on pillow and clothing Flake off when the hair is brushed or combed Damaged hair will cause temporary color to penetrate the cuticle and uneven color will be evident Deposit only, they cannot lift or lighten color Often hair is dull and lacks sheen

Types of Temporary color Color rinses Last from shampoo to shampoo Certified colors ( FDA approved ) Coat the hair shaft Color-enhancing shampoo Consist of shampoo & mixed w/ color pigment Blend color tones Brighten Impart slight color Neutralize unwanted shades

Types of Temporary color Color mousses and gels Slight color or dramatic effects Styling aids Crayons, sprays & mascara Crayons Retouch new growth Lipstick Sprays Usually bright, party colors,applied directly to dry hair Mascara Facial makeup Theater

Semi-permanent Color They partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer because pigment molecules are smaller Formulated to last 6 – 8 shampoos, depending on porosity of hair Gentle, self-penetrating, washes gradually No line of demarcation Chemical & physical change Patch test ? No peroxide is used

Semi-permanent color Advantages Structure of the hair is not affected Little or no damage Blending gray hair Introduce client to more permanent methods of hair coloring enhance natural hair color by adding tone & depth Formulated as toners for pre-lightened hair Safer to use on clients who are sensitive or allergic to paraphenylenediamine Color molecule made from coal tar Clients during pregnancy

Semi-permanent color Disadvantages Limited shades of the older formulas Color is not long lasting, needs repeated applications depending on frequency of shampoos Porosity of hair will effect how soon it fades, and off-shades after several shampoos Rarely provides sufficient coverage on gray hair Cannot lift hair Enhances original color or darkens only

                                      

Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This product adds color without changing natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50 percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no roots. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color because it contains no ammonia or peroxide.

Demi-permanent color Also called deposit-only color and is referred to as semi-permanent by some manufacturers Last longer than semi-permanent Deposits color; no lift Smaller pigment molecules that penetrate the hair shaft Patch test required due to low-ammonia

                                                                             

Demi-permanent color Less aggressive, less damaging Vivid colors Used in conjunction with permanent color to help fight the buildup effect mid-hair shaft to ends while permanent color is applied to new growth only

Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to wash out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be lightened. However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can become permanent on permed or already-colored hair!)

Permanent color Permanent haircolor is mixed with a oxidizing agent called hydrogen peroxide ( developer ) Also called oxidation tints penetrating tints aniline derivatives tints Permanent color Metallic dyes & vegetable dyes Limited in today’s market Contains aniline derivatives Uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that diffuse into the hair shaft

Permanent color Both the hair’s natural color and the applied color undergo a chemical change Molecules are trapped within the cortex and cannot be shampooed out Almost any shade can be achieved Designed to remain in the hair until it grows out A line of demarcation will be evident as the hair grows out Requires a patch test Chemical & physical change

Permanent color Advantages Simultaneously remove natural pigment while adding artificial color in one application resulting in a natural-looking color Used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair Hair is not coated so your client can receive other chemical services Penetrates to the cortex layer of the hair

Permanent color Disadvantages Patch test must be given prior to every application Due to chemical change the hair must reconditioned and carefully maintained Natural pigment is altered To remove the effects of a tint A tint remover Re-tint to camouflage Cut the hair to remove it Color can fade with time & shampooing, to off-color or harsh tones

                                                                        

                                              

Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a more significant color change (to go from black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process called double process blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color. The end result is a combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means the color may appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half an inch per month from your scalp.

Worksheet Review Classifications of haircolor A. How long does it last? Chemical action on the hair Advantages Disadvantages

Worksheet B. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages Disadvantages

Worksheet C. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages Disadvantages

Worksheet D. Ability of the hair to absorb moisture E. F. G.

Worksheet H. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages Disadvantages

Worksheet I. Over lapping layers of the cuticle scales are also called….. J. What action takes place when the color and peroxide are combined….

Summary We have discussed how haircolor is generally classified by its ability to last. Temporary color is just that; it is removed by shampooing. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent color lasts somewhat longer than temporary haircolor and bridges the gap to permanent color. Next lesson: Level System