Fit Problems and Solutions

Basic construction standards A. Quality 1. Seams 2. Seam finishes 3. Closures 4. Hems 5. Facings 6. Sleeves/cuffs 7. Collars B. Fit and/or function 1. Garment fit 2. Function of apparel item

Vocabulary Hook and Loop TapeFacing Hook and BarSnaps Bound (Hem or Seam) FinishNap ClippingPinked Finish GradingHem NotchingWaistband TrimmingTurned and Stitched Finish Interfacing (different weights and uses) Easing Gathering CasingCuff Under stitching

Quality of Seam Construction Seams in manufacturing should have at least a ½” seam allowance AppearanceBulk FinishFullness PlacementPressing ReinforcedStitch length TensionThread Width

Reducing Bulk in Seams for Proper Fit Clip inside curve to allow seam to lie flat. Notch outside curve to eliminate bulk Trim outside corner to eliminate bulk Trim seam to eliminate bulk Grade seam to eliminate bulk, eliminate ridge from showing on right side

Quality of Seam Finishes Seam Finishes - finish according to fabric, design, and use of garment Appearance Appearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling Types of Seam FinishesUnfinishedPinked Edge stitched Zigzag

Quality of Seam Finishes continued Hand overcast Clean or Turned and Stitched Double stitched BoundSerged

Quality of Closures (including zippers) Hook & Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks & "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops Hook & Bar – Two-piece metal fastening Snaps – Metal fasteners

Quality of Closures (including zippers) AppearanceCoveringPlacementReinforcedSpacingStitchingSuitable

Quality of Closures Buttons ReinforcedShank SizeSpacing StitchingType Buttonholes AppearanceGrain LengthPlacementSpacing LengthPlacement SpacingWidth

Hems should hang parallel to floor. To hem, cut edges are folded up, folded up again, then sewed down. Cut edges are enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravelAppearanceEase Hand stitching PressingSeamsTopstitchingWidth

Interfacings & Under stitching Interfacing Interfacings can be used to: Stiffen or add body (crispness) to fabric Strengthen a certain area of the fabric Keep fabrics from stretching out of shape Under stitching ensures that a facing won't roll to the outside of your garment.

A Facing is the area of a garment or sewn item that turns to the inside, giving a finished appearance to what would otherwise just be a raw edge of fabric. The facing is usually interfaced to add shape to the edge of the fabric. Facings Appearance Appearance - flat, smooth, not visible from outside Bulk Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or notched Edge Finish Edge Finish - appropriate to fabric; Facing edges free from ravelling (NO RAW EDGES) Securing Securing – under stitched where appropriate; tacked only at seam allowances and darts or stitch-in-the ditch method used where appropriate (as on shoulder seam) Width Width - even unless pattern requires variation

SleevesAppearanceBulkEaseGathersPressingReinforced Seam Finish Seams Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings

A Cuff is the lower edge of a sleeve (or pant leg) turned back to show an ornamental border Cuffs should fit comfortably around wristsAppearanceBulkInterfacingGrainShapeWidth

Collars AppearanceBulkGrainInterfacingShape Under stitching

Fit and/or Function - WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort - Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline) - Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body - Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor - Darts point to & stop short of fullest part of area they fit - Free from strain and/or excess fullness

Fit and/or Function cont’d - Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.) - Crotch should be smooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending. - Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction.