Fashion 1910’s – 1919’s

Rich & exotic opulence in first half of decade - Orientalism Practicality of garments during WWI – 1914 – 1918 Changes made because of necessity over fashion Periods of upheaval are often a catalyst for profound social change, which in turn is a catalyst for dramatic change in fashion.

Influences Women’s suffrage movement Roots of Prohibition Great Influenza Epidemic (1918) Titantic sank in 1912 Frank Lloyd Wright – Arts & Crafts movement Silent Films – Charlie Chaplin & Mary Pickford

Designers Jacques Doucet Mariano Fortuny Coco Chanel

Silhouette Rectangular - Tunic over a long underskirt - Empire waist early – loosened and gradually dropped to natural waist - Tunics gradually became longer and underskirts were made fuller and shorter - 1916 – calf-length dresses over ankle length underskirt

Hobble Skirt Mimicked the Harem skirts of middle east 1914 Widest at hips – narrow at ankle

The Great War WWI 1914 – 1918 Women went to work – factories Independence increased – levels of activity and desire for practical shoes Clothing more utilitarian – tailored, mannish appearance Hemlines inched up – dropped underskirts – above ankles – material shortages Darker Colors – Mourning – Monochrome look

Hats/Hair Styles Large hats with wide brims early Small hats with flat brims – end Bobbed haircut

Men Unchanged Styles Sack Suit Pants with cuff/with front/back creases Tuxedo jacket Ties same

Children Boys – suits with trousers Girls – less “adult” - shorter skirts - Material Rationing