Choosing Quality Apparel Apparel Development 2 Objective 3.01

Quality Seams  The standard seam allowance when sewing is 5/8 “  When checking a store bought garment for quality, the usual seam allowance is a minimum of ½ ”

Standard Seams  The standard seam allowance for quilting is ¼”.  When sewing a French seam begin with 3/8 inch.

Reducing Seam Bulk  Grading should be used to reduce bulk in heavy fabric – 3 layers of fabric – each a different width  Clipping is used on curves to get them to lie flat. clipping = snipping

Seam Treatments  Trim curved seams, like the ones in the lower part of an armhole and the center back seam of pants.

Seam Finishes  Any Method of sewing or trimming seam edges to prevent fraying, also make the garment look professional.

A Pinked finish would be most appropriate for a blouse made from very sheer fabric

 A Bound hem finish is most appropriate for a heavy weight fabric the frays easily.

 A pinked seam finish is the best way to prevent raveling of nylon fabric.

 A serged seam Is most appropriate for a dress made from a light weight knit fabric.

 Unfinished seams are a sign of poor workmanship.

Types of Seam Finishes  Pinked  Serged  Turned and stitched  French Seam  Flat-felled  Bound  Lapped  Piped (corded)  Welt

Zippers Centered Exposed Invisible Lapped Fly-Front

Zippers ***If a lapped zipper is constructed correctly, then the top stitching will only show on one side of the zipper opening.

Hook and Eye ***Heavy duty hooks and eyes/bars, are most appropriate for waistbands. - A clothing fastener consisting of a small blunt metal hook that is inserted in a loop or eyelet.

Snaps ***Snaps are most appropriate for children’s sleepwear. - clasp or fastener that closes with a click.

Velcro/ Hook and Loop Tape - Nylon strip with a surface of minute hooks that fasten to a strip with a surface of uncut pile. *** Hook and loop tape is most suitable for a person with limited hand flexibility.

Buttons  Machine-stitch buttonholes.  *Good quality buttonholes should be evenly spaced, smooth, flat, and firmly stitched.

Buttons  *Buttonholes should NOT be smaller than the button.  Make sure you are choosing the write button for your project. (Sew-On or Shank Button)

Buttons  Buttonholes should ALWAYS be made before the buttons are sewn on.  Buttons should be sewn on securely, and correctly to assure quality of your garment.

Button Quality * On a purse, when the button flap does not lay flat, the most appropriate way to correct the problem would be to realign your button.

Button Quality *Button holes on pants should be stitched twice around for added strength.

Hems  Hem Types: Rolled Serged Top- stitched Blind

What is the purpose of a hem??  To cover raw edges of apparel and make the finished product look better and more uniform.

Quality Hem Technique  When hemming a skirt, make sure edge is flat and smooth

Signs of poor workmanship   Hem edge is slightly longer in the back  Unfinished hems  Uneven hem

Facing is inside fabric that finishes a raw edge, such as inside a neckline, front of shirt, or armhole.

Facings should not be visible from the outside of a quality made garment.

Thing to know about facings:  Facings are under-stitched to prevent rolling, and is proof of quality workmanship in garment construction.

A rippled facing is an example of poor quality workmanship.

Sleeves should be loose enough to raise your arms, but long enough to cover your wrists when your arms are bent. Sleeves.

 A sleeve should have fullness ease without puckering

Easing helps you adjust armhole measurements that are slightly smaller than the sleeve. Sleeves Underarm seams should be clipped.

Cuffs A buttoned cuff should fit comfortably around your wrist. Sleeves Serging is not the best way to finish the bottom of a sleeve.

COLLARS

Choose interfacing similar in weight to the shirt fabric to ensure a quality collar. Interfacing is use in the collar above Interfacing that is cut out to use in the collar

Interfacing is used to help create smooth, crisp collars, waistbands and shirt cuffs. Crisp and clean collar

Interfacing that’s heavier than the fabric is not quality workmanship. NO!!!

Under collar shows along the edge is a poor quality collar.

The way to evaluate a collar is to see that the circle around the neck has no rippling. Perfecto!!!

It’s Important That Clothes Fit Well

What is the most important factor to consider when fitting a pair of slacks?  Crotch length should be comfortable for flexibility

When analyzing a garment what should you check for?  Chest and back fit smoothly

To evaluate proper fit, make sure garments are made with wearing ease

Poorly made darts have dimples at the points.

Poor Quality Garment:  Hemlines are not parallel to the floor

Examples of good quality workmanship include: Secure even stitching Matching plaids and stripes Smooth, flat, unpuckered seams Neatly constructed darts

When pinning pattern pieces, always follow the correct pattern layout so they are cut on grain. Make sure that you always pin the grain line first, when pinning pattern pieces. If your pattern pieces are not cut on grain your fabric pieces won’t match (especially when using plaid or striped fabric).

Napped fabric has a “direction” Before purchasing manufactured clothing made with napped fabric make sure the nap runs in the same direction. Some examples of napped fabric include: corduroy, velvet, and flannel.

When using sheer fabric to make a pillow always use lining so your stuffing doesn’t come out. Linings are appropriate for purses so that the stitching isn’t seen. Shirts made of sheer fabric also require a lining.

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