Machine Stitching Techniques Obj. 3.02 Understand Engineering & Construction

Stitch Lengths Stitch Length is determined by the purpose. A medium stitch length is most common. Basting stitches are very long. Reinforcement stitches are very short.

Standard Stitching Use: Permanent seams & construction details. Most Fabrics: 10-12 inches Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between 12-15 stitches per inch. Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.

Basting Machine basting holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched. Used also on a single layer of fabric for: Easing Gathering Marking guidelines

Reinforcement Stitching Adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners. Short stitch – 15-20 stitches per inch.

Stay-stitching Prevents fabric stretching Placed along bias & curved edges Added after: Fabric marking Before pinning Basting Permanent stitching

Stay-Stitching cont. Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance. Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.

Directional Stitching Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching. Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.

Standard Seam Stitching Produces Plain seam: 5/8 inch 5/8 inch seam Used in most patterns.

Backstitching Secures the ends of a row of stitching. Begin ½ inch in from end. Stitch backward to edge of fabric. Continue sewing to other end. Backstitch ½ inch from end. Secures the ends of a row of stitching.

Understitching & Facings Understitching is a row of stitching you sew close to the seam line through the facing and the seam allowances. Facings cover the raw edges in a garment such as the armholes, neckline, or other garment opening.

Understitching Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight. Created from standard stitching Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.

Topstitching Decorative and/or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment. Outlines – Seams Secures - Facings Attaches – Pockets Stitches - Pleats Holds - Hems

Edgestitching Holds fabric & seams in place. Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge. Used in areas as: Neck edges Zippers

Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds two or more layers of fabric together at the seams. Secures: Necklines Armholes Waistband facings Standard stitching on the outside of a garment in the groove of a seam line.

Zigzag Stitching Zigzag stitch uses: Finish seams Stitch buttonholes Attach cording & elastic Create decorative designs. Button Hole Seam Finish

Specialty Stitches Most machines have a variety of specialty stitches. Add decorative aspect to garment Can be made by a serger or sewing machine. Machine & Serger specialty stitches