Modern Fashion: 1900 – Present Fashion Design Modern Fashion: 1900 – Present Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission.  Trade & Industrial Education

1900-1909 The early 1900s saw the Victorian era come to a close. With this came changes in silhouette. The skirt was slim at the hip Skirt fullness was confined below the knee Decoration: tucks, hem ruffles, buttons, and lace insertions Day: High necklines with undefined bosom called the monobosom, bodice below the waist, cape type collars dropping off the shoulders, fitted sleeves from shoulder to elbow with fullness extending to wrist Evening: dresses were more daring, worn off the shoulder, with or without sleeves. Mid-Decade saw the beginning of the Edwardian era. The Edwardian era began with a retro vibe featuring: small balloon sleeves and very nipped-in waists. Full skirts were rounded and fabrics draped. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

Fashion illustration of Paul Poiret’s designs by Paul Iribe, 1908. 1900-1909 continued Paul Poiret’s designs quickly replaced the retro look. Slim, straight skirts Fewer undergarments Loosening of the corset High-waisted – empire line was popular Lots of details and superb construction Gowns featured: lace, cord, appliqué, soutache, beading, tucking, and insertion – often in the same gown Haute Couture houses of the era: Poiret Worth Doucet Lanvin Paquin Fortuny Fashion illustration of Paul Poiret’s designs by Paul Iribe, 1908. Wikimedia Commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1910-1919 The Edwardians became more playful and innovative featuring such styles as: The hobble skirt The lampshade skirt Asymmetrical draping Boning was used less and only for supporting the shape as opposed to changing the shape Suits were fashionable for daywear Walking was eased as the skirt hem rose to the ankle The hobble skirt, c. 1911. Wikimedia Commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1910-1919 continued World War I brought about more changes: Skirts rose well above the ankle Bodices leaned toward the higher waist Skirts were full and tiered Bat wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts were popular The post war years saw the introduction of Art Deco inspired prints. The automobile rose to status bringing about new garments to protect passengers from dust: The duster, a long, lightweight coat, was worn to protect clothing Hats with veils were worn to keep the complexion smudge free Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

Illustration from La Gazette du Bon Ton. 1920-1929 The post-war years brought a sense of euphoria to life and fashion: Waistlines dropped to the high hip levels Dresses became unfitted Bodices were simplified using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders Hemlines were perched above the ankle but would soon rise to shocking new heights Necklines were simplified to a scoop or “v” unless a collar was present Sleeves were long and straight or featured a bell shape Dresses were straight and simple in construction with detail in surface ornamentation: embroidery, soft braid, and beading Sheer or semi-sheer dresses were worn over matching slips 1922 – Robe de Style, Lanvin. Illustration from La Gazette du Bon Ton. Wikimedia Commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1920-1929 continued The “Flapper Era” became established: By 1926 the hemline had scandalously reached the knee The dropwaist remained popular but skirts and bodices became more complex featuring seaming, flounces, floating panels, overlays Quality was now viewed through fabric manipulation and surface design rather than by complex construction and fit By 1928/1929 fashion collections had tamed the indecent hemline and replaced it with the asymmetric hemline (knee length in front, longer in back) Waistlines rose to resume the natural position at the waist Popular designers/Design houses of the 20s: Patou Molyneux Chanel Vionnet Actress Alice Joyce, 1926. Wikimedia commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1930-1939 Great innovations were seen during the Depression, despite hardship. Waistlines returned to the natural waist Fits remained somewhat relaxed The bias cut gown created by Madeleine Vionnet became the standard for evening Zippers replaced hook and eye closures and became design elements in the hands of Elsa Schiaparelli who popularized their use Chanel popularized costume jewelry with faux pearl strands By 1938 small shoulder pads had become fashionable Girl in Dallas, TX, 1934. Wikimedia Commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1930-1939 continued Hollywood style made its way to the mainstream with movie designers such as Adrian creating their own lines. Popular Haute Couture houses: Lanvin Molyneux Mainbocher Patou Vionnet Chanel Schiaparelli Actress Mae West, 1933. Wikimedia Commons, PD. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1940-1949 As the United States emerged from the Depression much of Europe was already at war. The Nazi occupation of Paris was disaster for Haute Couture but it brought opportunity for American designers. Norman Norell and Claire McCardell established themselves and built an American clientele Mainbocher and Molyneux fled Europe and began working in the United States Wartime regulations restricted how much fabric and what types of garments could be manufactured Utility and practicality became fashionable while frivolity and extravagance were put on hold establishing the wide-shouldered, slim-waisted, narrow-hipped silhouette Social changes such as women in the workplace brought about the popularity of slacks (this point was greatly debated into the 1960s) Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1940-1949 continued Dior’s “New Look” hit the runway in 1947 and called for rounded shoulders, exaggerated bust lines, wasp waists, padded hips, and long, extravagantly full skirts. The New Look, although loved by fashion writers, was initially met with resistance from the public who viewed it as frivolous after years of rationing. The New Look soon became a symbol of the return to prosperity, femininity, and glamour. The New Look helped restore the French couture industry and offered a glimpse into the next decade. Popular designers/Design houses of the 1940s: Norell McCardell Dior Mainbocher Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1950-1959 The 1950s placed emphasis on the hourglass silhouette. This silhouette could be seen in both full skirts and the slender pencil skirt which was also popular. The hourglass silhouette created a need for foundation garments: Bullet bras - Corselets - Waist-cinchers - Girdles – Crinolines The birth of prêt-a-porter (ready-to-wear) brought quality off-the-rack garments once restricted to the wealthy to the general population Full skirts were popular on daytime dresses which were worn form performing household duties and running errands Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1950-1959 continued Cocktail dresses were essential for social gatherings Gloves and hats were expected when a woman left the house The latter fifties were popularized by Balenciaga’s sack dress and Yves Saint Laurent’s trapeze dress. Popular designers/Design houses: Dior Balenciaga Yves Saint Laurent Chanel Balmain Givenchy Mainbocher Galanos Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1960-1969 The 1960s were a decade of great fashion transition The decade began with the full-skirt silhouette of the 1950s and ended with a silhouette that was quite opposite Jackie Kennedy popularized the short-jacketed sheath suits of Oleg Cassini Teenagers dominated the fashion scene led by “It Girl” Twiggy and their parents later followed suit Colorful shift dresses and psychedelic prints were popular Emilio Pucci created colorful prints making simple dresses walking works of art Babydoll and trapeze silhouettes were staples Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt By 1967 the new fashions were baring more of the body than ever before with even the most conservative styles cut above the knee Popular designers/Design houses: Oleg Cassini Mary Quant Emilio Pucci Yves Saint Laurent Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1970-1979 The 1970s picked up where the 1960s left off with the body-baring mini-skirt still popular New trends were quickly added including the bell-bottom pant with its very fitted top and wide-flared leg openings (the mid-70s saw the hip hugger waistlines while the late-70s saw high waistlines) Midi and maxi skirts joined the ranks of the mini in popularity offering three different skirt lengths Short, tight-fitting shorts called hot pants became the craze Women were now freely wearing pants without social criticism Polyester was popularized in many styles most notably the “leisure suit” Platform shoes were popular for men and women Diane von Fürstenburg introduced the wrap dress for women Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1980-1989 The 80s offered a wide variety of styles and inspiration encompassing all subcultures from music to athletics to movies Shoulder pads rose to new heights and widths The women’s power suit, complete with large shoulder pads was popularized by popular TV shows Musicians such as Michael Jackson, Madonna, and MC Hammer popularized looks such as the “Thriller” look, the “street urchin” and Hammer pants that were copied by the youth of American Some movies popularized oversized sweatshirts with the collars cut off paired with leggings Designer jeans were all the rage Looks with leather, lace, and/or bright colors were popular Popular Designers/Design houses: Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Ann Klein Perry Ellis Giorgio Armani Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

1990-1999 The early 90s saw a continuation of 80s fashion. Dark denim became the preferred style of denim and was often seen in matching jeans and jacket combos. Baby doll dresses, tartan skirts, headscarves, trench coats, penny loafers were all commonly seen. The mid 1990s saw a revival of 1960s fashion. It also became fashionable to wear designer clothing displaying labels from designers such as Lacoste, YSL, Armani, Gucci, and Chanel The 1990s also saw a movement of fashion rejection that continued into the 2000s. Tattoos, body piercing, and branding became popular in the 90s. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission. 

2000 – present What are popular styles, silhouettes, and influences of the time period? Who are important designers of the time period? How have current trends have been influenced by past styles? Is there only one popular look that defines the time period as in some decades? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. Images and other multimedia content used with permission.