Waves in the Ocean

Properties of Ocean Waves A. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. DRAW THIS!

Properties of Ocean Waves A. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. 1. Parts of a wave are: Wave crest, Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wavelength (L),and Wave period (T).

Properties of Ocean Waves A. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. 1. Parts of a wave are: Wave crest, Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wave Amplitude, Wavelength (L),and Wave period (T). 2. Wave period (time from crest to crest) provides a basis for the wave classifications: Capillary waves, Chop, Swell, Tsunamis, Seiches.

Properties of Ocean Waves B. Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves.

Properties of Ocean Waves B. Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves. 1. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: Wind velocity, Wind duration, Fetch, and Original state of sea surface.

As a class, define the following: Wind velocity: The speed of the wind. Wind Duration: How long the wind blows for. Fetch: How much water surface the wind interacts with.

Properties of Ocean Waves B. Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves. 1. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: Wind velocity, Wind duration, Fetch, and Original state of sea surface. 2. As wind velocity increases wavelength, period, and height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient.

Properties of Ocean Waves B. Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves. 1. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: Wind velocity, Wind duration, Fetch, and Original state of sea surface. 2. As wind velocity increases wavelength, period, and height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient. 3. Fully developed sea is when the waves generated by the wind are as large as they can be under current conditions of wind velocity and fetch.

Wave Motions C. Progressive waves are waves that move forward across the surface.

Wave Motions C. Progressive waves are waves that move forward across the surface. 1. As waves pass, wave form and wave energy moves rapidly forward, not the water.

Wave Motions C. Progressive waves are waves that move forward across the surface. 1. As waves pass, wave form and wave energy moves rapidly forward, not the water. 2. Water molecules move in an orbital motion as the wave passes.

Wave Motions C. Progressive waves are waves that move forward across the surface. 1. As waves pass, wave form and wave energy moves rapidly forward, not the water. 2. Water molecules move in an orbital motion as the wave passes. 3. Diameter of orbit increases with increasing wave size and decreases with decreasing water depth.

Wave Motions 4. Wave base is the depth to which a wave can move water. C. Progressive waves are waves that move forward across the surface. 1. As waves pass, wave form and wave energy moves rapidly forward, not the water. 2. Water molecules move in an orbital motion as the wave passes. 3. Diameter of orbit increases with increasing wave size and decreases with decreasing water depth. 4. Wave base is the depth to which a wave can move water.

Wave Motions 5. If the water is deeper than wave base, orbits are circular and there is no interaction between the bottom and the wave, but if the water is shallower than wave base, orbits are elliptical and become increasingly flattened towards the bottom.

Life History of Ocean Waves D. Wave interference is the momentary interaction between waves as they pass through each other. Wave interference can be constructive or destructive. Which is constructive and which is destructive?

SHOUT IT OUT WHEN YOU SEE IT! CONSTRUCTIVE! DESTRUCTIVE!

Life History of Ocean Waves E. There are three types of breakers:, Spilling breakers, Plunging breakers, and Surging breakers. Each creates a different wave break on a beach.

Life History of Ocean Waves F. Storm surge is the rise in sea level resulting from low atmospheric pressure associated with storms and the accumulation of water driven shoreward by the winds.

Life History of Ocean Waves G. Storm surge is the rise in sea level resulting from low atmospheric pressure associated with storms and the accumulation of water driven shoreward by the winds. 1. Water is deeper at the shore area, allowing waves to progress farther inland. 2. Storm surge is especially severe when superimposed upon a high tide.

Other Types of Waves G. Internal waves form within the water column on the pycnocline.

Other Types of Waves G. Internal waves form within the water column on the pycnocline. 1. Because of the small density difference between the water masses above and below the pycnocline, wave properties are different compared to surface waves.

Other Types of Waves G. Internal waves form within the water column on the pycnocline. 1. Because of the small density difference between the water masses above and below the pycnocline, wave properties are different compared to surface waves. 2. These internal waves are slower and much larger than surface waves.

Other Types of Waves H. Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides. 1. Tsunamis consist of a series of long-period waves characterized by very long wavelength (up to 100 km) and high speed (up to 760 km/hr) in the deep ocean.

Other Types of Waves H. Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides. 1. Tsunamis consist of a series of long-period waves characterized by very long wavelength (up to 100 km) and high speed (up to 760 km/hr) in the deep ocean. 2. Because of their large wavelength, tsunamis are shallow-water to intermediate-water waves as they travel across the ocean basin.

Other Types of Waves H. Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides. 1. Tsunamis consist of a series of long-period waves characterized by very long wavelength (up to 100 km) and high speed (up to 760 km/hr) in the deep ocean. 2. Because of their large wavelength, tsunamis are shallow-water to intermediate-water waves as they travel across the ocean basin. 3. They only become a danger when reaching coastal areas where wave height can reach 10 m.

Other Types of Waves H. Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides. 1. Tsunamis consist of a series of long-period waves characterized by very long wavelength (up to 100 km) and high speed (up to 760 km/hr) in the deep ocean. 2. Because of their large wavelength, tsunamis are shallow-water to intermediate-water waves as they travel across the ocean basin. 3. They only become a danger when reaching coastal areas where wave height can reach 10 m. 4. Tsunamis originate from earthquakes, volcanic explosions, or submarine landslides.