Colour 1 – Introduction to Colour

Colour Consultation Determine clients desired results. A thorough consultation is very important before colouring a client’s hair. The client needs to understand the procedure so that there is a complete understanding of the result desired by both the hairdresser and the client. Determine clients desired results. Determine client’s previous colouring history. Determine texture/porosity of hair. Percentage of white Determine client’s natural base shade. Determine the correct undertones for the base shade. Discuss price, time and home maintenance with the client before you start the procedure.

Tips for Good Consultation We need to find out quite a lot about our client's to meet their needs. To ensure you do this, the following will help: Help and encourage your client to relax and feel comfortable, and make them feel special, by, remembering something about them. You will need to talk to your client and use various types of questions to gain the information for the salon recording system. To best meet your client's needs, here are some of the things you may need to find out and do. Look at the facial features and body shape. Check the quality of hair, by looking and feeling the hair and scalp. When asking the client about their hair and scalp you should use a combination of open and closed question's, listen to what the client says, and respond to the client by providing feedback and suggestions.

Tips for Good Consultation Continued How do they feel about their hair as it is. Would they like to change anything about their hair. If they were to have a change, then you should inform them of the costs involved. What do they do with their hair at home and how much time do they spend on it. Recommend suitable products. Explain to the client how to manage the chosen suitable styles. What type of lifestyle do they enjoy. For example: Someone who is casual, sporty or a homemaker usually likes something that is low maintenance, neat and easy to maintain. A career person will usually have something suitable to their job position. A person who spends a lot of time with social activities or someone in the fashion industry may want a design that is a little more dressy and stylish.

P.E.T.A.L.S Porosity – Very highly sensitised, moderately sensitised, good condition Elasticity – Good or Weak Texture – Fine, Medium & Course Amount (Density) – Fine, Medium & Thick Length – Short, Medium & Long Scalp – Dry, Normal & Oily

Porosity Very Highly Sensitised (Extremely uneven and porous) Moderately Sensitised (coloured with bleached foils and combination of colours) Good Condition (Minimum or no colour) Porosity means how much moisture the hair can absorb eg. New towels absorb little water because the fibre is very closed. Only after a few washes do the fibres open up and absorb more moisture. The fibres in old towels are very open and absorb water well.

Elasticity The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched about one-fifth of its length. Wet hair is able to be stretched 40% to 50% of its length.

Texture Texture is the diameter of each hair strand: eg fine, medium, coarse When applying colour you will use different timing and colour selection depending on the texture of the hair: Fine hair – shorter time and choose a colour one shade lighter than the desired result. Medium hair – normal time and choose a colour that is the same depth as the desired result. Coarse hair – longer time and choose a colour that is one shade darker than the desired result Hair texture is usually finer around the front hairline, so it is important sometimes to use a different depth of colour around the hairline from what you would use on the rest of the head.

Skin Allergy Tests A skin allergy test before commencing a colour service is recommended when: it is the first time a client has a permanent colour service the client has a history of a sensitive scalp or skin. recommended by the manufacturer As skin allergy test must be performed to avoid: any allergic reaction occurring during a service legal action being taken by the client if injury occurs The terms “positive” and “negative” refers to the outcome of the skin test: Positive – a skin reaction occurs Negative – no reaction occurs

Skin Allergy Test Continued An allergy test is performed by: A section of skins is cleaned with a disinfectant (normally behind the client’s ear or the inner fold of their elbow). A small amount of colour is mixed and applied to the cleansed area and left to dry (with no cover). The colour must stay on the client for 24- 48 hours or as directed by the manufacturers. If there is an immediate allergic reaction the colour needs to be removed. A positive reaction will result in either redness, swelling, blistering, itching or burning of the skin and /or respiratory distress. In this case medical assistance should be sought. A negative result means you can proceed with the colour service. Note on the clients history card the results of the test

Client Card It is important to record a client’s colour service on a Client History Card For future reference when providing services to the client If the client is unsatisfied with the outcome and changes need to be made To allow different operators at different times perform the same service on the client To be able to perform the same service regularly and accurately Details and information that should be collected from the client when filling in a Client History Card could include:   Name, phone number, date of service, type of service provided, colour mixing quantities and ratios, stylist, price, peroxide strength, development time. May include – address, coffee/tea preferences, product purchases or recommended, problems, future appointments, extra services, extra services recommended.

Clients Base Shade The clients base shade or colour is: the client’s natural shade of colour with no artificial pigments virgin hair from levels 1-10 hair with all percentages of grey (white) E.g. 100% grey hair is the clients base shade   It is important to determine a clients base shade before commencing a colour service to:  assist in determining the underlying pigment determine how many levels of lift or deposit is required determine what peroxide strength is needed allow for the correct selection of colour for the desired end result see if the selected colour is achievable.

Colour Wheel WARM YELLOW GREEN ORANGE BROWN BLUE RED COOL VIOLET

Choosing a Colour Cool or Warm Solid or Weaved Permanent or Semi- Permanent Match Existing or New Lighter or Darker

Warm or Cool Complexion COOL TYPES OF COLOUR WARM TYPES OF COLOUR Blue, pink, olive SKIN UNDERTONE Rosy, yellow, golden, possible freckles Blue, grey, brown/black EYE COLOUR Amber, brown, green, sometimes golden speckles Ash blonde, natural grey/white, black, dark brown NATURAL HAIR COLOUR Golden, copper tinge, deep red

Natural Depth and Underlying Pigment 10 LIGHTEST BLONDE - PALEST YELLOW 9 VERY LIGHT BLONDE - PALE YELLOW 8 LIGHT BLONDE - YELLOW 7 MEDIUM BLONDE - ORANGE / YELLOW 6 DARK BLONDE -ORANGE 5 LIGHT BROWN - RED / ORANGE 4 MEDIUM BROWN - RED 3 DARK BROWN - RED BROWN 2 DARKEST BROWN - DARK RED BROWN 1 BLACK - DARKEST RED BROWN

Choosing the Correct Peroxide The percentage of lift is determined by the selection of colour and the percentage of the peroxide 6% = Coverage of white / Tone-on-tone (same level) 1 shade lift 9% = 2 to 3 shades lift depending on the hair texture 12% => 3 to 4 shades lift depending on the hair texture

Peroxide Choice Permanent Colour 12% 9% 6% 4% 3% 1.9% Semi Permanent Colour Emulsion 4% 3% 1.9% Temporary Colour No Peroxide Required. Note: Different manufacturers will specify the correct peroxide choice for each colour range for the desired result. Always follow the manufacturers instructions.

Application of Colour VIRGIN HEAD Mix peroxide and tint quantities as directed by manufacturer. Apply to mid-lengths and ends 1-2 cm away from scalp. Develop approximately 20 minutes. Mix fresh tint and apply colour to root area for 30 minutes.

Mix peroxide and tint quantities as directed by manufacturer REGROWTH Mix peroxide and tint quantities as directed by manufacturer Apply to root area only Develop as per manufacturer’s instructions (approx 30 minutes minimum) development time. If need be, colour bath the ends. Rinse colour by following removal instructions Apply Colour Saver to prevent colour fading or Condition.

REMOVAL OF COLOUR Add water Emulsify to remove colour from skin. Rinse Mild Shampoo Colour save or Conditioner

Covering Grey Hair If the client has less than 30% grey hair, you do not have to add any natural colour. Just mix your target colour with peroxide. If the client has between 30% and 50% grey hair, you need to add 1 part natural colour : 2 parts target colour with peroxide. If the client has 50% or more grey hair, you need to add 1 part natural colour : 1 part target colour with peroxide. Canities (Ka-neesh-eez) is the name given to greyness or whiteness of hair. Congenital canities occur at or before birth primarily in albinos and occasionally on people with normal hair. Acquired canities refers to the loss of pigment in the hair as a person ages or an onset may happen in early adult life. Causes of canities may be extended illness, nervous strain or heredity.