Haircutting Cos. 1 Cos 1

LEARNING OBJECTIVES Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. Demonstrate the safe and proper use of various tools in haircutting. Demonstrate proficiency of the four basic haircuts. Demonstrate knowledge of other haircutting techniques.

HAIRCUTTING Haircutting is the single most important service you must master as a professional cosmetologist. A good haircut serves as the foundation of almost every other service in the salon. Most people avail themselves of regular haircuts, which makes it a tremendous source of revenue and repeat business.

PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING You need to develop an understanding of the important steps of the haircutting process. These principles include: Sectioning Combing Elevating Cutting the ends Expected and predictable results for every action or technique used.

ANATOMY OF THE SKULL REFERENCE POINTS Understanding the reference points helps ensure balance with the design. The reference points allow you to re-create the haircut again and again. The reference points allow you to know where and when to change technique, and to make up for irregularities such as a flat crown. Read only

Anatomy of the Skull Becoming aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you get the results the client wants. Show a bald headed manikin to show the reference points of the head

Reference Points Widest part of the head Place a comb flat on the head. Where the head starts to curve away or where the comb leaves the head is the parietal ridge

Reference Points Widest part of the head Place a comb flat on the head. Where the head starts to curve away or where the comb leaves the head is the parietal ridge

Reference points Bone that protrudes at the base of the skull Place a come flat against the nape area Where the comb leaves the head is the occipital bone. Show a bald-headed manikin and mark or demo these points pn it.

Reference Points Highest point of the head Place a comb flat on the top of the head The comb will rest on the highest point or the apex

Reference Points 4-Corners Place two combs flat against the side & back of the head Find the apex and imagine two diagonal lines crossing at the apex

Areas of the head Hair on the top of the head behaves differently than hair on the side of the head Find the front & back by making a line from the apex to behind the ear Crown is between the apex & back Show this on a bald-headed manikin

Areas of the head Nape area is the hair below the occipital Back and Front Fringe or bangs area

Can you recall? SMART ACTIVITY Let’s review Can you recall? SMART ACTIVITY

Lines & Angles Lines - Curved, horizontal, vertical, and diagonal Angles – Elevation is how far you hold the hair away from the head. Continue using the bald-headed manikin to demo these lines

LINES AND ANGLES Every haircut is made up of lines and angles. Line is a thin continuous mark used as a guide. Angle is the space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point. The head is made up of curved and straight lines or surfaces. USE THIS SLIDE AS A REVIEW FROM PRIONCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN: STRAIGHT ACROSS IS WHAT? Horizontal lines Figure 11-9

STRAIGHT LINES There are three types of straight lines in haircutting: Horizontal Vertical Diagonal Figure 11-10

HORIZONTAL LINES Parallel to the floor Direct the eye from one side to the other Used in one-length and low-elevation haircuts Build weight Figure 11-11

VERTICAL LINES Up and down Perpendicular to the floor Used to create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations Remove weight Figure 11-12

DIAGONAL LINES Between horizontal and vertical Slanting or sloping direction Used to create beveling (cutting the ends at a slight taper to create fullness) Used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers Figure 11-13

ANGLES Basic geometry is important to haircutting because this is how shapes are created. Angles are important in elevation and cutting line. Figure 11-14

ELEVATION The angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held or elevated from the head when cutting is called elevation. Below 90 degrees builds weight. Above 90 degrees removes weight or layers the hair. READ ONLY – STUDENTS DON’T HAVE THIS SLIDE PAGE

Angles and elevations 0 degrees 45 degrees 90 degrees 180 degrees How many degrees of elevation can you list from this diagram? 0 degrees 45 degrees 90 degrees 180 degrees

CUTTING LINE Figure 11-16 Figure 11-17 The angle where the fingers are held when cutting, and the actual line that is being cut. It is also called the finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle, and shears angle.

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO THE SUCCESS OF YOUR HAIR CUT GUIDELINES EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO THE SUCCESS OF YOUR HAIR CUT

GUIDELINES Also called a guide Section of hair that determines length the hair will be cut Located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut Usually the first section cut

STATIONARY GUIDE Guide does not move. All other sections are combed to this guide and cut at the same angle or length. A blunt cut is an example. Figure 11-20

TRAVELING GUIDE It is also called a movable guide. This guide moves as the haircut progresses. When using this type of guide, take a small slice of the previously cut section and move it to the next subsection where it becomes the new guide. Is used often in layered haircuts. Figure 11-22

HAIRCUTTING Part 2

Learning/Content Objectives Students will know what to look for during a client consultation for a haircutting service Students will explain the importance of knowing face shapes and how it impacts a successful haircut for every client. Students will identify tools used in haircutting.

CLIENT CONSULTATION Have a conversation with your client to find out what the client is looking for. You can offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a decision about the most suitable haircut. The desired look may include: what the client wants. time available for maintenance. client’s lifestyle. classic or trendy preference. What are some things to look for during the consultation? What properties of the hair are important when cutting hair?

THE FACE SHAPE Pull hair away with clip Note length and width of the face Note the balance of features: Weight Volume Profiles

HAIR ANALYSIS Density—number of individual hairs per square inch on scalp Texture—the general quality and feel of the hair; fine, medium or coarse. Wave pattern—amount of movement in the hair Hairlines and growth patterns—cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where the hair ends up once it is dry Porosity- ability of the hair to absorb moisture. Elasticity- ability of the hair to stretch over 50% and return without breaking

Tools Body Positions Safety Start here on Thursday, Jan. 14th, 2016 Then perform a 180o cut on Marina

Let’s Review What role does texture, porosity, elasticity, and density play in haircutting? What questions should the consultation include to select the appropriate haircut for the client? What type of cape should be used for a wet haircut? Why? Should you use a sanex or a towel when draping?

COMBS Styling or cutting comb is also called an all-purpose comb. Barber comb is used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears-over-comb technique. Wide-tooth comb is mainly used to detangle hair. Sectioning clips are available in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes. Figure 11-45

HAIRCUTTING SHEARS Shears are used to cut blunt or straight lines as well as for other techniques. The terms shears and scissors may be used interchangeably. Figure 11-32

Parts of Shears The size of shears the you use is determined by the size of your hand. Never use the same shears on people as you do on manikins Thinning shears have the same parts

Parts of the Razor Straight razor Razor Shaper Feather Tondeo Demo texturizing and cutting with the Feather

Holding your tools Ring finger goes in the finger grip of the still blade Thumb goes in the finger grip of the moving blade Practice opening and closing. Practice comb & cutting the air

Holding your Tools Razor is held cutting blade up Hold the razor so the handle is higher than the shank Cut on top of the subsection Keep the hair wet and consistent tension

Proper Body position Always face your work Weight on both feet Use the hydraulic chair Picture is cutting-over-the-fingers Razor, you cut behind the fingers Sometimes you will cut below the fingers Demo body position Pal-to-palm cutting Razor cutting

Safety in Haircutting They’re sharper than you think! Always palm the shears or any tool you’re using Don’t cut past the 2nd knuckle Take care around the ears, bend if necessary Balance the shears on your finger. see Pg 300 Don’t cut past the knuckle Demo using the index finger of the left hand

SUMMARY It is very important to develop strong haircutting skills. A good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous other services. We have the relevance of understanding the anatomy of the head, elevations, angles, and degrees. The five characteristics of hair (density, texture, wave pattern, hairlines, and growth pattern) play an important role in your ability to create a quality haircut. As in all services, it is important to practice proper sanitation and disinfection procedures for haircutting services. There is much more to learning how to cut hair.

activity Keyword Match Random Word picker

Lab Assignment Cornrow your manikin with vertical partings, cornrowing the hair straight back. Like this OR

Lab Assignment Cornrow the half the head straight back and curl the other half in spiral curls . See picture

Types of Haircuts *Blunt cut *Long Layered cut *Uniform Layered Graduated cut Clipper cut

BASIC HAIRCUTS

Learning/Content Objectives Students will list the steps to a blunt haircut. Students will list the steps to a 180o haircut. Students will list tips to help ensure a good haircut for every client.

BLUNT or ONE–LENGTH CUT Figure 11-26

BLUNT HAIRCUT This is also known as a one-length haircut, zero-elevation cut, or no-elevation cut. All hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area. Stationary guide is used. This is a good cut for fine, thin hair. Figure 11-61

Blunt Haircut 4 sections – Use the apex Stationary guideline – all the hair is combed to the same place to be cut Demo sectioning What’s the difference between a section and a subsection?

Blunt or 0o No elevation, don’t lift the hair The guideline can be horizontal, diagonal or rounded Good for finer or thinner hair Cut the manikin at each step as the presentation

0o haircut Using the comb to hold the hair still while your thumb does the work is a good way to maintain that stationary guide.

0o Cut Continue establishing the guideline from right to left on the first subsection. The density of the hair will determine the size of the subsection.

Blunt Cut - 0o Continue working up the back of the head, alternating from right to left Don’t use a lot of tension Watch out for irregular growth patters in the crown

Blunt Cut Take a horizontal parting above the ear Comb the hair down and allow for natural protrusion of the ear Allow the hair to hang in a natural fall

Blunt Cut 0o Repeat on the opposite side Remember your shears will be pointing toward the back when you are working on the right side Hold your comb parallel to the floor Show how to do it without using the comb

0o Cut Check the length on both sides When you cut horizontally, you check vertically The job isn’t over until the cleanup is done Demo this at the same time

0o Cut Blow drying your cut after you finish is the best way to see mistakes Check out some blunt cut variations on pg308

TIPS FOR BLUNT HAIRCUTS Use minimal or no tension. Work with natural growth patterns. Comb section twice before cutting. Maintain even moisture. Take precautions around ears.

SUMMARY We have learned about one of the simplest and most popular haircuts you will be expected to perform on a regular basis in the salon. The four basic types of haircuts are blunt, graduated, layers, and long layers. Cross-checking is parting the hair in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line and shape.

Guidelines In the 180o cut, the hair at the apex is a stationary guideline and all hair is combed up to it & cut. Which haircut would I be performing if I used a horizontal guideline at the nape? Which haircut would I be performing if I used a vertical line at the nape or the side? How about if I used a diagonal guideline?

LONG LAYERED HAIRCUT This haircut is cut at a 180-degree elevation. It gives volume to styles. It can be combined with other cuts. Layers increase from short to longer toward the perimeter. Figure 11-64

Long Layers Part off the hair into 5 sections as shown Start at top of crown Take a ½” thick horizontal subsection, hold straight up and cut at desired length This becomes your stationary guide Use tip of nose or chin as length guide

180o Cut Pull subsequent subsections back to guide and cut Continue to front hairline

Long layered Cut When top is complete crosscheck it vertically Your initial guide should be the shortest part and the hair gets longer as it goes toward the front

180o Cut Taking ½” thick horizontal subsections, comb hair up to guide at crown and cut Repeat on right side

Long Layered Cut At the top of the left rear section part off a ½”thick horizontal subsection and comb up to guide and cut Cut straight across Work down to nape using the stationary guide at crown

180o Cut Repeat on right rear section Blow dry and style Cleanup and sanitation

INCREASED LAYERED CUT – (180 DEGREES) REVERSE ELEVATION Part hair into 5 sections Establish guideline at the highest point (crown) Part the hair horizontally across top to begin guideline Part horizontally on the right side and bring hair to guideline. Repeat on left side. Take 1/4th panel in top, bring to guideline Bring the hair in the left back to the guideline. Repeat on the other side Check haircut.

Haircutting Tips Check out figure 11-153 on pg. 324. It’s a man’s 90o cut but you don’t round out the corners. Leave the squareness Cut the interior first on layered cuts Don’t cut thin hair too short Don’t cut coarse hair shorter than 3”

GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS Take consistent and clean partings. Take care with crown and neckline. Take care around ears. Use consistent tension. Pay attention to head position. Maintain even moisture. Always work with the guideline.

GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS Always cross-check the haircut by parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line. Use mirror to see elevation. Stand in front to check side length. Remember curly hair shrinkage; it will shrink anywhere from ½ to 2 inches. Maintain correct body and hand posture.

LET’S REVIEW Which haircut has 0 elevation? Which haircut is held at a 180 degree elevation? Which haircut requires 4 sections when cutting? After you have finished the haircut, what comes before blow drying the hair?

THINNING SHEARS Used to remove bulk from hair Also called texturizing shears, tapering shears, or notching shears

RAZORS Used when a softer effect is desired on hair ends Can be used for entire haircuts, to thin, and to texturize areas Can be used with or without guards Figure 11-43a

CLIPPERS AND EDGERS Clippers are used for creating short tapers, short haircuts, fades, flat tops, or to shave hair off right to the scalp Edgers are a smaller version of clippers; mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around ears. Figure 11-44

SANITATION AND DISINFECTION PROCEDURES Wash hands with soap and water. Sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly before proceeding with service. Drape client properly. Sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut. Replace blade in razor prior to each client. Discard blades in puncture-proof container Maintain shears properly. Sanitize workstation after each haircutting service.

Uniform Layered Cut Part manikin from forehead to nape in exact middle Take a subsection ½” on either side of center part

Uniform layered Cut - 90o Begin at crown, comb section straight out from the head Keep fingers parallel to the head and cut to desired length Work forward to hairline, taking a little of the previously cut hair each time This is a traveling guide

90o Cut Continue cutting guideline from front to nape Round off any corners you might see Always keep your fingers parallel to the head and hold hair straight out

Uniform Layered Cut For ease in handling, separate the front from the back by parting at the apex. Continue in the back by taking vertical panels from center to right and center to left See figure on 319 11-131a

90o Cut This is a schematic of the ________you will take in the back This is the cut you will do for______ ______ Keep your sections______ Use a small amount of the previous section as a______

90o Cut This is a schematic of the partings you will take in the back This is the cut you will do for State Board Keep your sections small Use a small amount of the previous section as a guide

Uniform Layered Cut Continue to the left side of the back starting at the center again Remember, watch your finger position Continue to the back of the ear

90o Cut Crosscheck your entire back Picture shows last section being cut at the back of the ear

90o Cut/Uniform Layered Cut Part off the top from the recession area at outside of brow to the crown See Figure 11-136 on pg. 320 Clip your sides out of the way Cut the top using vertical partings

90o Cut Use a small amount of the hair in the back and the first subsection you cut on either side of the part Crosscheck the top using horizontal partings Hold at 90o straight out from the head

Uniform layered Cut On the right side, take a vertical panel right at ear, using some of the previously cut hair from behind the ear Continue with a traveling guide to the front hairline Repeat on opposite side and crosscheck

90o Cut Notice soft perimeter and rounded shape Blow dry and style your manikin Cleanup and sanitize

Two 90o haircuts styled

Tips for Curly Hair Curly hair shrinks more when it dries. For every ½” you cut, the hair will shrink 1”. Don’t use tension, comb with the wide tooth comb Elevate less Keep lengths longer because curly gets big The razor is a no-no Pg. 325

Cutting Bangs The fringe area is from the outer corners of the eyes to the top of the crown or the apex Comb the hair, see how it falls To layer, hold entire section straight up and cut Cut at eyelashes for longer bangs and eyebrows for shorter bangs. Use a curved line Demo razor cutting and some texturizing techniques with the razor and how to cut behind the fingers. Use short strokes to remove bulk and long strokes to remove length. Hold and cut at a 45o angle. Always use the guard. Demo slide cutting and shear-over-comb. Point-cutting, Notching, free-hand notching, slithering, (used on wigs), slicing, and carving, (done with thinning shears). Demo more weight reduction with thinning shears. Demo reducing weight with the razor.

Haircutting Tips For long layered cuts don’t cut the top too short. Leaving it a little longer will keep the hair thicker at the bottom Figures 11-156 &11-157 on pg 324

Angles and elevations Which cut that you have learned is this?

Stop here! Activity- Keyword Match

Graduated Cut - 45o Start by parting the hair into 6 sections. Front hair line to crown, sides, back and nape. Demo a graduated cut with the phone book Start with 6 sections

45o Start your cut at the center nape, just like a blunt cut

Graduated Cut Work from the center out to the right Center to the left

45o Cut Use horizontal parting, pull down an inch wide subsection Make a vertical parting, hold the hair at a 45o angle and cut Continue to the right with vertical sections

Graduated Cut Continue to the left, being careful to maintain the same 45o angle Complete entire occipital section You are using an interior traveling guideline now

45o Cut Continue up the head to just under the crown Maintain the length at the crown by holding the hair at 90o and cut throughout the entire top Refer to Figure 11-105 on pg. 313

Graduated Cut Establish guide at side with a parting above the ear Cut a small 1” wide section in front of the ear, using the corner back as your guide.

45o Cut Establish a guide on opposite side of head in the same way Check that both sections are the same length

Graduated Cut Establish a curved ½” thick subsection following hairline from the ear back to the nape Repeat on opposite side Hold the hair with no tension. Note that the hair is held at a slight asngle

Graduated Cut Establish a curved ½” thick subsection following hairline from the ear back to the nape Repeat on opposite side Hold the hair with no tension Note that the hair is held at a slight asngle

45o Cut Establish a horizontal section above the ear

Graduated Cut Part a ½ “ vertical subsection Using the underlying previously cut hair. Include some hair from the nape Maintain that 45o angle The top is held at 90o just like in the back and cut to meet hair beneath. Repeat on opposite side

45o Cut Check to see if your sides ______in length, by holding them at 90o Try to maintain the same _______45o to the top, then 90o on both sides.

45o Cut Check to see if your sides match in length, by holding them at 90o Try to maintain the same anglel 45o to the top, then 90o on both sides.

Graduated Cut Create a guide subsection at the front hairline about ½”wide or thick Use the brows, nose or chin as your length guide.

45O Cut Connect the fringe with the sides Use a low elevation Check both sides for evenness

GRADUATED/45o CUT Finish top by taking vertical subsections parallel to the center part Hold the hair up at a 90o angle Check your cut when completed

Graduated Cut 45o Blow dry and style Cleanup and sanitation

Graduated Cut A variation of the graduated cut with bangs

Clipper Cutting Stand in front of the section you are cutting Move to back of ear bending of out of your way Use a clipper over comb to reduce weight in this area Repeat on opposite side Demo using edger to create line around ear

Clipper cutting Use edgers to define hairline at nape Move up the head, holding comb at slight angle and use previously cut hair as your guide Use fluid motions and don’t worry about speed yet

Clipper Cutting Determine and cut guide at crown. Comb the hair forward at side & measure distance between brows and hairline Move toward the front pulling back to your guide and cut

Clipper cutting Shorten and shape the hair at the nape and on sides as needed Clean up around ears as needed

Clipper Cutting Use clipper-over-comb to reduce bulk around ears

Clipper Cutting START AT TOP OF CROWN OR THE APEX

Clipper Cutting Measure distance between brows and hairline to determine length at crown Cut the top by pulling hair back to your guide at crown

Clipper cutting Consult your client about length of sideburn or Measure length of jaw and half the distance, pivot finger straight up and that point is the best sideburn length

Clipper Cutting Finished cut Cleanup and sanitize Demo clipper oiling and cleaning