Milady’s Standard Cosmetology BASICS OF CHEMISTRY AND ELECTRICITY 7 Copyright © 2004 by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.

7 Learning Objectives Explain the difference between organic and inorganic chemistry. Explain oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions Discuss the different forms of matter: elements, compounds, and mixtures Explain the difference between solutions, suspensions, and emulsions. Explain pH and the pH scale. 2

7 CHEMISTRY Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition, structures, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different chemical conditions. Organic chemistry is the study of substances that contain carbon. Inorganic chemistry is the branch of chemistry dealing with compounds lacking carbon.

7 MATTER A. Elements – simplest form of matter Composed of a single part or unit Cannot be reduced to a simpler form 90 naturally occurring elements B. Atoms Smallest particle of an element C. Molecules Elemental molecules Compound molecules

7 MATTER D.States of Matter Solids—have a definite shape, volume, and weight (e.g., ice). Liquids—have volume and weight, but not a definite shape. (e.g., water) Gases—do not have a definite volume or shape (e.g., steam). Figure 7-3

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER A. Physical Properties Color Odor Weight Density Specific gravity Melting point Boiling point Hardness B. Chemical Properties Determined by a chemical reaction and cause a chemical change in the identity of the substance

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER C. Physical Change Changes the form without forming a new substance Figure 7-4 D.Chemical Change causes a new substance to be formed having properties different from the original. Figure 7-5

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER E.Pure Substances Matter with fixed chemical composition, definite proportions, and distinct properties Elemental molecules Chemical compounds Figure 7-6

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER F.Physical Mixtures Ingredients that do not change their properties Solution Solute Solvent Miscible liquids (MIS-uh-bul) Immiscible liquids Suspension Emulsion Surfactants (sur-FAK-tants) oil-in-water emulsion (o/w) water-in-oil emulsion (w/o)

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER G.Other Physical Mixtures Ointments, pastes, pomades, styling waxes Powders H.Common Product Ingredients Alcohol Alkanolamines (al-kan-oh-LAH-mynz) Ammonia Glycerin Silicones Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) Formaldehyde (formalin)

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER I.Potential Hydrogen (pH) and Ions Ionization (eye-ahn-ih-ZAY-shun) Ion Anion (AN-eye-on) Cation (KAT-eye-un) J.Water & pH Hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic. Hydroxide ion (OH) is alkaline.

7 PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER K.The pH Scale A scale of 0 to 14 7—a neutral solution Below 7—an acidic solution Figure 7-11  Above 7—an alkaline solution  Pure water—pH of 7  Hair and skin—pH of 5

7 L.Acids have a pH below 7.0. taste sour. turn litmus paper from blue to red. contract and harden hair. M. Alkalies (AL-kuh-lyz) are also called a base. have a pH above 7.0. taste bitter. turn litmus paper from red to blue. feel slippery and soapy on the skin. soften and swell hair. PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER

7 N.Oxidation  Oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions  Exothermic (ek-soh-THUR-mik)  Combustion O.Reduction Reactions Oxidation Reduction Oxidizing Agent P.Redox (reduction and oxidation) reactions PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF MATTER

7 CHEMISTRY SUMMARY The science that deals with the composition, structure, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different chemical conditions is called chemistry. Matter is anything that occupies space, has physical and chemical properties, and exists as either a solid, liquid, or gas. Matter can be changed either physically or chemically.

7 ELECTRICITY Electricity is a form of energy that, when in motion, exhibits magnetic, chemical, or thermal effects. Electricity is a flow of electrons, which are negatively charged subatomic particles.

7 ELECTRICITY A. Electric Current Flow of electricity along a conductor B. Conductor Any substance, material, or medium that conducts electricity C. Insulator (Nonconductor) Rubber Wood Glass Cement

7 ELECTRICITY D. Complete Circuit The path of an electric current from the generating source through conductors back to its original source Figure 7-15

7 TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT A.Direct Current (DC) Constant, even-flowing current, traveling in one direction B. Alternating Current (AC) Rapid, interrupted current flowing in one direction then in the opposite direction C.Converters Used to change direct current into alternating current D. Rectifiers Used to change alternating current into direct current

7 TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT E. Electrical Measurements Volt Ampere (AM-peer) Milliampere (mil-ee-AM- peer) Ohm Watt Kilowatt Figure 7-16 Figure 7-17

7 TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT F.Safety Devices Fuse Circuit breaker G.Electrical Equipment Safety Inspect regularly. Never overload circuits. Check for UL (Underwriter’s Laboratory) approval. Ensure that appliances are grounded.

7 TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT H.Hints for the Safe Use of Electricity Ensure UL certification. Study instructions on use of equipment. Disconnect appliances when not in use. Inspect all electrical equipment regularly. Keep wires, plugs, and equipment in good repair. Use one plug per outlet. Avoid contact with water or metal when using electricity. Do not leave the room when client is connected to any electrical device. Keep cords off floor to avoid tripping. Do not attempt to clean around electric outlets while equipment is plugged in.

7 TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT Hints for the Safe Use of Electricity  Do not touch two metallic objects at the same time if either is connected to current. Do not step on or set objects on electrical cords. Do not allow cords to become twisted or bent. Disconnect appliances by pulling plug, not cord. Do not attempt to repair electrical appliances unless you are qualified. Never tamper with wiring or plugs to get them to fit into a receptacle they were not designed for.

7 ELECTROTHERAPY A. Wall Plate Facial stimulator B. Modalities Currents C. Electrode Apparatus that conducts electric current from a machine to the client’s skin D. Polarity Positive or negative state of electric current

7 ELECTROTHERAPY E.Polarity Test #1 Separate tips and immerse in salt water. Turn the selector switch to galvanic current. As water is decomposed, more active bubbles will accumulate at negative pole. F.Polarity Test #2 Place tips of two conducting cords on two separate pieces of blue moistened litmus paper. Paper under positive pole will turn red. Paper under negative pole will remain blue.

7 ELECTROTHERAPY G.Galvanic Current Active electrode Inactive electrode Positive pole, anode, red Negative pole, cathode, black H.Positive Pole Results Produces acidic reactions Closes pores Soothes nerves Decreases blood supply Contracts blood vessels Hardens or firms tissues Figure 7-23

7 ELECTROTHERAPY I. Negative Pole Results Produces alkaline reactions Opens pores Stimulates and irritates nerves Increases blood supply to skin Expands blood vessels Softens tissues J. Iontophoresis (eye-ahn-toh-foh-REE-sus) Process of introducing water-soluble products into the skin with the use of electric current Cataphoresis (kat-uh-fuh-REE-sus) Anaphoresis (an-uh-for-EES-sus) Desincrustation (des-in-krus-TAY-shun)

7 ELECTROTHERAPY K.Faradic Current Benefits Improves muscle tone Promotes waste product removal Increases blood circulation Relieves congested blood Increases glandular activity Stimulates hair growth Increases metabolism L. Sinusoidal Current Benefits Supplies greater stimulation; less irritating than faradic Soothes nerves, penetrates muscle tissue Best suited for nervous clients

7 ELECTROTHERAPY M.CAUTIONS for Faradic and Sinusoidal Currents Do not use if it causes pain or discomfort. Do not use if face is very florid. Do not use if client has gold-filled teeth, high blood pressure, or pustular condition of skin. N.Tesla High-Frequency Current Has high rate of oscillation or vibration Used for scalp and facial treatments Used to treat thinning hair, itchy scalp, and excessively oily or dry skin Figure 7-24

7 ELECTROTHERAPY O. Benefits of Tesla Current Stimulates circulation of blood Increases glandular activity Aids in elimination and absorption Increases metabolism Improved germicidal action Relieves congestion

7 OTHER ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT A. Conventional Hood Dryer For drying hair B. Electric Curling Irons  For curling hair C. Heating Caps  For scalp treatments D. Processing or Accelerating Machine  Accelerates hair services E. Steamer or Vaporizer  For facials F. Vibrator  For massage G. Blow Dryer

7 LIGHT THERAPY C.Therapeutic Lamps produce same rays as the sun. produce thermal, mechanical, and chemical effects. D.Ultraviolet Rays (UV) Short wavelengths Least penetrating rays Chemical effects E.Benefits of Ultraviolet Rays Kill germs Produce vitamin D on skin Treat psoriasis Treat acne Stimulate production of melanin

7 LIGHT THERAPY F.Disadvantages of Ultraviolet Rays May cause sunburn May cause skin cancer G. Application of Ultraviolet Rays Lamp should be 30 inches to 36 inches from skin. Exposure should last only 2 to 3 minutes Exposure can be increased gradually to 7 to 8 minutes. H.Infrared Rays 60% of natural light Penetrate the deepest Produce the most heat Have long wavelengths

7 LIGHT THERAPY I. Visible Light Rays  White light  Blue light  Red light

7 ELECTRICITY SUMMARY Electricity plays an important role in the everyday operations of a cosmetology salon. A general understanding of electricity and the various currents is very important because of the devices and equipment used in salon services. We cannot perform skin care services safely and effectively without understanding which form of electrical current gives the best results for the desired service.