PATTERN SYMBOLS CLOTHING/SPORTS SEWING

GRAIN LINE A heavy solid line with an arrow at each end It appears on all pattern pieces that aren't cut on the fold The grain line indicates how to place that pattern piece on grain To do this, the grain line arrow must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage (unless otherwise noted).

EXAMPLES OF A GRAIN LINE

PLACE ON FOLD A bracketed grain line that indicates the pattern edge is to be placed exactly on the fold. If it is angled at all, it will change the shape of your pattern piece, and you may have to cut out the pattern piece again.

NOTICE THAT THE "PLACE ON FOLD" MARKING IS EXACTLY ON THE FOLD.

CUTTING LINE A heavy line that outlines the pattern pieces. Sometimes a symbol of scissors is printed on the line to show the proper direction for cutting.

Occasionally a cutting line appears within the pattern. This indicates a shorter hemline, a lower neckline, or a lining cut from the same pattern piece.

IF THE PATTERN IS MULTI-SIZED, THE MAJOR PATTERN PIECES WILL HAVE SEVERAL CUTTING LINES. EACH CUTTING LINE WILL BE MARKED TO INDICATE THE CORRESPONDING SIZE.

BUTTONHOLES A solid line that shows the exact location and length of each buttonhole.

NOTCHES Diamond Shaped symbols that extend beyond the cutting line. Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces. Used in different numbers. This is to make it easier to match the pattern pieces. When assembling pattern pieces, it is important to make sure the notches match up.

If the notched edge does not match correctly, then you might be connecting the wrong pieces together. Notches make your pattern into puzzle pieces. They help you to know how to match your pattern pieces correctly.

Some notches point outward, and some point inward. The Style of Notch depends on the pattern company Notches cut inward, you can used little clips to identify notch placement. Notches cut outward, make sure to identify how many notches

DOTS-SQUARES-TRIANGLES Symbols used to help match and join garment sections, especially areas that are gathered or eased.

ADJUSTMENT LINE Lengthen or Shorten markings A solid line and a dashed line, with an arrow in the middle, that indicates placement for lengthening or shortening a pattern piece. This marking is interchangeable with two parallel lines. It just depends on the pattern designer.

WRONG SIDE OF PATTERN When reading pattern instructions, sometimes the layout guide will indicate that a pattern piece needs to be placed face down. This symbol illustrated a pattern piece that should be placed face down

DARTS SINGLE ENDED Triangular shape indicated by dots and/or two broken lines. DOUBLE ENDED Diamond Shape indicated by dots, and/or connected lines.

DARTS Pattern will show where a dart is supposed to be placed in a garment, to take in fabric and give a more fitted appearance. A Dart is closed and angled at the bottom, whereas, a pleat is open at the bottom.

WHERE ARE DARTS USED?

HOW ARE DARTS CONSTRUCTED?

PLEAT MARKING Two straight lines with an arrow between them, to indicate where fabric should be taken in, to create a pleat.

DIRECTIONAL STITCHING Sometimes it is necessary to stitch in a specific direction. This symbol shows you which directions you should stitch. These arrows show the direction that stitches should be put in.

SELVAGE EDGE The un-cut edge of the fabric, that does not fray. It usually has a symbol, or unique marking, but not always.

REASONS TO PRESHRINK FABRIC REASON #1: The Fabric will go back to it's original shape, so that the final project will not be off-grain, or out of shape. REASON #2: The project will not change size after it has been constructed

NAP FABRICS A fabric that has a raised surface. If you rub your hand one direction, it will look different than if you rub your hand the other direction. Reflects light differently

A fabric that has a print that all the symbols, or characters are going the same direction. If they are flipped, they will be upside-down. Pattern pieces must all be placed going the same direction. DIRECTIONAL DESIGN

ONE-DIRECTION LAYOUT For Nap Fabric Or Directional Print fabric All pattern pieces must be laid out and cut out going the same direction.

LENGTHWISE YARNS Also known as straight of grains The yarns on the fabric that are PARALLEL to the SELVAGE EDGE

CROSSWISE YARNS The yarns of the fabric that are PERPENDICULAR to the SELVAGE EDGE

“LENGTHWISE Grain may also be called "WARP“ Stronger Threads "CROSSWISE " Grain may also be called "WEFT" Weaker Threads

BIAS OR TRUE BIAS BIAS The diagonal direction on the fabric Where the fabric has the most stretch TRUE BIAS Exactly a 45 degree angle on the diagonal grain of the fabric When fabric is cut on the TRUE BIAS, it changes the characteristics of the fabric…. It is more bendable It is more stretchable