Pattern Markings

Alteration Lines Two parallel lines that indicate where you can lengthen or shorten a pattern piece to maintain the original shaping. This should be done before layout.

Grainline or Straight grain line This heavy, solid line with arrows at both ends is usually in the center of the pattern, although it can appear anywhere within the pattern piece. Use it to ensure the pattern is positioned along the straight grain of the fabric, so that the garment or project hangs properly. Unless otherwise indicated, pin the pattern piece so the grainline is parallel to the fabric selvage.

Place on fold line This solid line with arrows that point to the pattern piece edge, indicates that the piece should be positioned along the fabric fold.

Notches Diamond or trapezoidal shaped symbols along the seamline are used both in pattern layout and during construction. When cutting, cut a triangle out away from the garment. When you are sewing, position adjoining notches so that the fabric at the seamlines will match when the seams are sewn.

Cutting Lines Cutting Line (single size): The outer line of the pattern piece provides a guide for cutting the fabric. The line sometimes has an illustration of tiny scissors on it. Cutting line (multi-size): Multi-size patterns have several sizes printed on the same tissue and are sold in one envelope. Sometimes the multiple cutting lines are all solid, in which case it helps to highlight your size before cutting, and sometimes each cutting line is a slightly different line configuration.

Dots Dots are made in various sizes by the pattern companies. These must be marked onto your fabric. They indicate starting and stopping points for stitching, as well as points to match up markings for things like darts. When you are working with multi sized patterns, be sure you transfer the marking for the size you are working with.

Regulation seam or seam allowance This shows you how far away from the edge you will sew.

Stitching Line Not all pattern pieces include stitching lines. When they are included they are a broken line, indicating the areas that will be stitched together. These are a guide so you can see where a line of stitching intersects and where you will not be stitching. It is not recommended that you mark every stitching line on to your garment. This would result in excess handling of your fabric.

Buttonhole Mark Buttonhole marks tell you where the buttonhole should be placed on the garment

Pocket Placement The pocket placement lines tell you where a pocket should be placed on your garment. You will need to transfer this marking to your garment.

Directional Stitching Sometimes the stitching can only be done in a certain direction. These arrows tell you which way to sew.