Seams and Seam Finishes Apparel Engineering Techniques Obj. 3.03

Today’s Objective What is a seam and seam allowance? What is a seam finish? How do you determine which seam finish is best to use? Learn about the common seams and seam finishes and how to construct them. Learn how to examine a seam and seam finish based on industry standards.

What is a seam? Row or line of stitching resulting in holding two layers of fabric together. Primary function of a seam is to: 1) Secure apparel components together 2) Provide strength and durability 3) Extend the life of the apparel item

Kinds of seams used for fashion/home sewing Plain seam Flat-felled Seam French Seam

Plain Seam The most common seam. Suitable for all areas of a garment. Not suitable for shear & lace fabrics.

Plain Seam construction steps… Put right sides of fabric together. Sew a straight seam. Secure the threads at the beginning and end of the seam. Press the seam open. Fashion Sewing with a commercial pattern-use 5/8 inch seams Industry Sewing- use 1/2 inch seams

Flat–felled Seam Self Finished Seam Decorative Strong Functional Great choice whenever raw edges are not desirable. Great seam finish for denim.

Flat felled seam construction steps… Pin the wrong sides of fabric together. Stitch a 5/8” standard seam. Press seam open and then both seams to one side. Trim the under-seam allowance 1/8”. Fold the edge of the upper seam allowance under ¼”. Place it over the trimmed seam allowance and press. Stitch close to the folded edge through all thicknesses. Check out this video…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ_JgFXhEaE

French Seam Self Finished Seam Used on fabrics that ravel easily Used so no raw edges will show Suitable for sheer fabrics.

French seam construction steps… 1. Pin the wrong sides of fabric together. From the raw edges, stitch a 3/8” seam. Trim seam allowance to 1/8”. Press seam flat to one side. Fold the fabric along the seam line with right sides together. Press. Stitch ¼” from the folded edge. Check out this video…http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/29992/how-to-sew-a-french-seam

What is a Seam Finish? Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying, improve strength and apparel appearance. Apply finish after seam has been stitched and pressed. Common Finishes: Pinked and Stitched Zigzag Turned and Stitched Overlock (Serged)

Factors to consider when choosing a seam finish Fabrication Use the apparel item Care of the apparel item Location of the seam/seam finish

Pinked and stitched seam finish Used on firmly woven fabrics. Extra row of stitching provides protection from raveling.

Pinked and stitched seam construction steps… Place fabric right sides together. Sew a plain seam. Press seam open. Trim the edge of the seam with pinking shears. Stitch close to the about 1/8” from the pinked edge. Check out this video…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1SG77Q9-QU

Machine Zigzag seam finish Fast, easy and quick seam finish for most fabrics. Great for knit fabrics.

Machine Zigzag seam finish construction steps… Place fabric rights sides together. Stitch a 5/8” plain seam. Press open. Using a medium width, zigzag along the edge of each seam allowance. For loosely woven or heavy-weight fabrics, use a wide stitch. Check out this video…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru3iTultROI

Turned and stitched seam finish Also called hemmed or clean edge seam. Forms a narrow, single-fold hem along the edges of the seam allowance. Quick and neat method. Great seam finish for light-weight to medium-weight fabrics. Gives a finished look for an unlined jacket. Check out this video…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpLMq7Co1MA

Turned and stitched Seam finish construction steps… Place fabric right sides together. Sew a plain seam. Press seam open. Press each seam allowance edge under ¼”. Stitch close to the folded edge. Check this video out…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiGFUsV9Rc0

Overlock (Serged) seam finish Great finish for most fabrics, especially knits. Used widely in the production of apparel.

Overlock/Serged seam finish construction steps… Place right sides of fabric together. Stitch a 5/8” seam. Press open and then to one side. Using a serger, serge along the edge of the seam. Check this video out…http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/29986/how-to-serge-seam-allowances

Quality Checkpoints in Seams and Seam Finishes Smooth and even seam in appearance inside and outside of apparel item. Even in width throughout. Pressed open or to one side according to the seam type and it is used. Free from bulk. Smooth, flat, unpuckered seams. Functional and durable. Thread should match and be appropriate for the fabric type and content. Should be neat and smooth in appearance. Protect the seam to prevent raveling. Not be visible on the outside of the apparel item.

Examining seams and seam finishes based on industry standards for quality. Industry Connection Assignment: Using the provided quality checkpoint handout, examine the seams and seam finishes of various ready-to-wear apparel items. Report your findings. Industry Connection