1. Chapter 19 Exfoliation

2. Types Exfoliation refers to peeling and shedding of horny ( outer ) layer of skin. Removing cell layers from skin surface can be used to treat a variety of cosmetic and medical problems Mechanical exfoliants physical contact is used to scrape or bump cells off skin. examples: granular scrubs w/ almond meal or jojoba beads or skin brushing machine

3. Benefits Dead surface cell removals skin appears smoother extraction of clogged pores becomes easier brings lower-level cells to surface more quickly and improves skin’s moisture allows for deeper delivery of moisturizers and other treatments application of makeup is easier stimulates blood flow to skin surface

4. When to avoid mechanical exfoliation Skin w/ visible capillaries indicates fragile blood vessels Thin skin reddens easily Older skin thin and bruises easily

5. When to avoid mechanical exfoliation Skin being medically treated w/ tretinoin ( retinoic acid or Retin-A ), Accutane, azelaic acid, adapalene ( Differin ), alphydroxy acid ( AHA ), or salicylic acid Acne-prone skin inflamed papules and pustules

6. Microdermabrasion One of the most recent advances in mechanical exfoliation Involves “ shooting” aluminum chloride, corundum, or sodium chloride crystals to sandblast dead cells off the surface of the skin Directed to the skin through a vacuum or air pulsating wand, abrade the stratum corneum If you have ever watched an old building being cleaned by sandblasting, you’ll understand the basic concept of Microdermabrasion

7. Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion has been used in Europe for many years First introduced in the US during the mid-1990’s Procedure respects the integrity of the skin, promotes even healing & complements most treatments programs

8. Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion has been used to treat: Aging and sun-damaged skin Some types of acne scarring & acne Altered pigmentation Stretch marks Fine lines & wrinkles

9. Microdermabrasion Results may include: Improved skin tone Even skin color Refined skin pores Fewer breakouts Healthy glow Renewed elasticity Diminished appearance of scars DO NO PERFORM UNTIL EXTENSIVE TRAINING IS COMPLETED

10. Chemical Exfoliants In Chemical exfoliation dead skin cells or the intercellular “glue” that holds them together is dissolved by chemical agents such as alphahydroxy acids & enzymes Superficial chemical exfoliants are gentle & used when mechanical exfoliation is not appropriate

11. Chemical Exfoliants These exfoliating procedures: Enzyme peels One enzyme often used: keratolytic enzymes that speed up the breakdown of keratin ( the protein of skin ) Enzymes often used in keratolytic enzyme peels are papain, derived from the juice of papaya fruit & pancreatin, derived from beef by- products

12. Chemical Exfoliants There are 2 basic types of keratolytic enzyme peels One name for this product is“Vegetal peelings” or gommage cream is applied ( paraffin or oatmeal ) before steaming it dries in about seven minutes to form a hardened crust crust is then massaged or rolled off the skin

13. Chemical Exfoliants Second type & most popular is a Powdered enzyme This is mixed w/warm water immediately before appliaction Stays soft during application; Produces a more even peeling of cell buildup and helps dilate follicle openings Suitable for the following conditions oily, clogged skin w/ blackheads, whiteheads, & minor acne breakouts

14. Chemical Exfoliants Conditions Dry or dehydrated skin w/ cell buildup, flaking, & tight dry surface Dull, lifeless-looking Skin condition actually has a tremendous buildup of dead cells that produce a slight gray color on the surface Clients who desire smoother skin appearance or more even surface for makeup application

15. Alphahydroxy acids Acids derived from plants, mostly fruits Glycolic acids Lactic acids Often grouped w/ keratolytic enzymes Work by dissolving or loosening surface intercellular cement ( the “glue” that holds cells together ) Used after 5% - 10% concentration gel, lotion, or cream at home for two weeks w/out home application, procedure may involve increased discomfort & redness & irritation

16. CAUTION Do not use brushing machines, scrubs, or any harsh mechanical peeling techniques on these skin types and conditions: Skin with many visible capillaries Thin skin that reddens easily Older skin that is thin and bruises easily Skin being medically treated with tretinoin ( retinoic acid or Retin-A), Accutane, azelaic acid, adapalene (differin ), alphahydrozy acid (AHA), or salicylic acid (found in many common skin products) Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules