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Maintaining the Lawn.

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Presentation on theme: "Maintaining the Lawn."— Presentation transcript:

1 Maintaining the Lawn

2 Maintaining the Lawn Applying lime sulfur fertilizer

3 Lime Should be applied when necessary to keep the pH between 6.0 and 6.5 Late fall and winter are the best times to apply lime

4 Lime moves through the soil slowly at a rate of about 1/2 to 1 inch per year

5 Sulfur should be used on soils that are alkaline to adjust the pH

6 Fertilizer annual applications of fertilizer are needed
Nitrogen leaches through the soil and must be replaced regularly

7 Fertilizer Lawns require high N fertilizer

8 Nitrogen can be applied in an organic form which acts as a slow release nutrient that does not burn the grass and supplies N over a longer period of time

9 Fertilizer should be applied with a spreader just prior to the active growing season

10 Mowing two types of mowers; reel rotary

11 Mowing close mowing of 1/2 to 1 inch is done most efficiently with a reel mower

12 Mowing most lawns are cut too short because the homeowner believes that the lawn looks best when short

13 Mowing a very short cutting reduces the leave area of the plant so much that it cannot make enough food

14 Mowing Cutting the grass too short also encourages weed growth
Cool season grasses should not be cut shorter than 2-3 inches

15 Mowing Warm season grasses are cut 1/2 to 11/4 inches depending on the variety Warm season grasses grow faster in warm weather

16 Mowing Warm season grasses are better able to compete with weeds.

17 Mowing Lawns should be mowed often enough that no more than 1/3 of the top is removed.

18 Mowing mower blades should be kept sharp at all times so the grass blades are cut not torn off

19 Mowing Mulching mowers eliminate the need to remove clippings from the lawn and reduce fertilizer needs by 50%

20 Mowing lawns should be cut so that they are cut at right angles to the direction of the previous mowing.

21 Mowing This eliminates compaction, gives the lawn a more even appearance and reduces thatch build up

22 Mowing Each pass over the lawn should slightly overlap the previous one If lawn is too tall clippings should be collected and removed

23 Mowing Heavy build up on the lawn shades out light and kills the grass. Causes a thatch build up that reduces soil aeration

24 Mowing damages roots and provides a breeding place for disease and insects

25 Growth Regulators Can be applied by spraying on the lawn which will slow the growth of the grass and reduce the number of times the lawn must be mowed.

26 Growth Regulators An example is PRIMO

27 Watering At least one inch of water should be applied in each application one inch of water is equivalent to 1/2 gallon per square foot

28 Watering Applying less than one inch does more harm than good.
Watering shallowly, the plants root system is not forced to grow deeply into the soil

29 Watering A healthy lawn can go dormant and withstand a great deal of dry weather without being damaged.

30 Watering The grass will become green and actively grow after the next good rain

31 Problems Weeds: If lawns are heavily infested with weeds, chemical herbicides should be used to eliminate the problem

32 Weeds are usually an indication of poor maintenance practices
two types of weed killers used on lawns are pre-emergence and post-emergence

33 Post Emergence herbicides are applied after weeds sprout and begin to grow Many chemicals are selective and only kill certain types of plants

34 Selective herbicides make it possible to select a chemical that will kill almost everything but the grass

35 Diseases most turf diseases are caused by fungi - parasitic plants
Fungi live in and on dead grass and in the soil where they attack the grass and rob the soil of nutrients.

36 Diseases Fungus diseases are spread easily by mowing or simply walking across the infected area especially if the grass is wet

37 Diseases for fungal diseases to cause serious problems, there must be:
grass plants on which fungus can live

38 Fungal diseases fungus spores and a means of spreading them to the grass temperature and moisture conditions favorable to the growth of fungi

39 Disease prevention do not over use N maintain a pH of 6.0-6.5
avoid thatch buildup

40 disease prevention water only when necessary and then water deeply
mow frequently, remove only 1/3 of top growth

41 Disease Prevention keep trees pruned to allow sufficient light for good growth

42 Insect Control can cause serious damage to lawns
spraying of application of granular insecticide may be necessary

43 Lawn renovation Reasons lawns fail wrong species or variety of grass

44 Reasons lawns fail improper mowing
cutting to short, not cutting frequently enough

45 Improper fertilizing applying fertilizer too late in the spring for cool season grasses. Apply a few weeks before the grass begins its active growing stage

46 Fertilizing Use slow release, high N fertilizer according to soil test results

47 Improper Watering failure to apply enough water to soak the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches Water one inch per week

48 Heavy Traffic plant varieties that are known for durability such as the tall fescues

49 Excessive shade plant shade tolerant grass or other ground cover
Improper soil preparation prior to planting

50 Infestation of weeds, diseases and or insects

51 Thatch speed thatch rotting by maintaining a pH of 6.0 -6.5
remove thatch with a thatching rake or machine

52 Thatch control layer of dead stems, leaves and roots which build up on the soil surface

53 Thatch control may prevent water from penetrating soil
prevents proper aeration provide breeding area for insects and disease

54 Thatch build up not adjusting mower blade properly
returning clippings to the lawn heavy fertilizing

55 Thatch build up heavy clay soil acidic soil

56 Compacted soil most needed lawn maintenance is aeration
compaction robs plant roots of oxygen and water

57 Compacted soil recommended treatment is use of a plugger
pulls out plugs of soil leaves holes in lawn for air and water to enter

58 Weed infestation when more than one third of the lawn is dead and large bare spots exist May be better to kill the remaining lawn and start over

59 Weed infestation Apply “Round up” and re seed the area
after grass is killed the entire lawn is dug up and the seedbed reworked and prepared for seeding

60 Thin lawns remove thatch work up soil
add seed use a roller to press the seed into the soil

61 thin lawns Apply weed killers to control broadleaf weeds as needed
fertilize with slow release high N mow properly and follow good maintenance practices

62 Spot seeding any bare spot that covers a foot or more should be treated follow the same process for seeding a new lawn

63 Spot patching remove good sod from inconspicuous area and patch the weak area by digging up the sod and replacing it with good sod

64 Spot patching press the sod into place water and fertilize accordingly

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