1. Chapter 15
(2012 Edition)
Scalp Care, Shampooing,
& Conditioning

2. ~ judgments about surroundings the shampoo: ~ heavenly ~ forgettable
client
~ judgments about surroundings
the shampoo:
~ heavenly
~ forgettable
~ nightmare
First (preliminary) step for services
Add to the side bar:
has a psychological impact
Nadinesalons.com

3. Encompases:
Scalp care
Massage
Shampooing
Conditioning

4. quality relaxation time happy with shampoo ~ happy with entire visit
*Soothing
* pleasurable
sets the mood
quality relaxation time
happy with shampoo
~ happy with entire visit
Read: Why Study….
Nbcaugusta.com

5. Scalp Massage healthy scalp ~ cleanliness ~ stimulation
Manipulations used
in scalp treatments
and ***shampooing
media.lvrj.com/images/ jpg

6. Scalp treatments:
Given with a continuous even motion
Stimulate the scalp
Help to relax the client
Do not massage or manipulate a client’s scalp if abrasions are present

7. Scalp massage is performed:
Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent
During the shampoo (once the conditioner has been applied) for relaxation
Procedure Page 338
Difference between Relaxation and Treatment:
Are the products that are used
Follow all manufacturer’s directions

8. Knowing the location of: ~ muscles ~ blood vessels ~ nerve points
scalp and neck
~ areas that benefit
from massage movements
Read: FYI

9. Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
Recommended after a hair and scalp examination
Given either before or after the shampoo
Depending on which treatment is given

10. Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments
Deficiency of natural oil
Use scalp preparations with moisturizing and emollient ingredients
Avoid: strong soaps, mineral- or sulfonated-oil base, greasy or high alcohol content
Use a scalp steamer or hooded dryer
Procedure page 329

11. Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
Manipulate scalp
Increases blood circulation to the surface
Hardened sebum will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing
Procedure page 330

12. Antidandruff Treatment
Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and lotions control dandruff
Moisturizing salon treatments soften and loosen scales
Recommend additional salon treatments and antidandruff home care
Procedure page 331 Read “Service Tip”

13. Brushing the Hair
Correct hair brushing:
Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp
Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup from the hair
Gives hair added shine
Include before every shampoo and scalp treatment
Examine scalp for abrasions and infections

14. Four exceptions to HAIR brushing:
Do not brush before a chemical service
Do not brush if the scalp is irritated
Add: Do not brush wet hair

15. NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging the scalp prior to:
~ single-process and double-process haircolor
~ highlighting
~ most chemical relaxers (FMD)
~ some temporary rinses
~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD)
*If recommended, gently shampoo to avoid scalp irritation (especially prior to permanent wave)

16. Natural (boar) bristle brushes have tiny overlapping layers
Cleans and adds luster to the hair
Nylon bristles are shiny and smooth
More suitable to hairstyling
Not on test, however important
Add: never use a comb to loosen scales-can tear off skin and cause bleeding

17. Understanding Shampoo
analyze
~ hair and scalp
Check for:
dry, dehydrated hair
Thinning
excessive hair
~ left in the sink
dry, tight scalp
oily scalp
Cme.medscape.com

18. scalp disorders or diseases ~ tick or lice infestation
abnormal flaking
open wounds
scalp irritations
scalp disorders or diseases
~ tick or lice infestation

19. alert the stylist
~ any hair or scalp conditions
infectious disease is never treated
~ referred to a physician
cleanse the hair and scalp prior to services
home care
quality hair care products

20. remove all:
dirt oils cosmetics skin debris
cleanse regularly
~ combat oils
~ perspiration
~ dirt
~ breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria

21. shampoo as often as necessary
excessive:
~ strips protective oil (sebum)
oily hair shampooed more often
Add to side bar: Shampoo products account for the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

22. Selecting the Proper Shampoo
skilled at selecting shampoos
read the labels
make informed decisions
recommend home-care items
select a shampoo
~ condition of hair and scalp

23. oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated
Be aware:
~ has the hair been treated with a chemical service
(lightened, colored, permed,
chemically treated)
~ abused by harsh shampoos
~ damaged by improper care
~ exposed to the elements

25. right home-care products
~ makes all the difference
~ looks, feels, and behaves
wrong product choice
~ good haircut look bad
affects outcome of chemical services

26. Alibaba.com
Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk
Sleekhair.com
Duelle.co.za
Tuscanysalon.com

27. ***only professional products
*guaranteed when purchased in a salon
*can only guarantee your chemical services if professional products are used at home.
client’s
~ good advertising for you

28. Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures
All matter classified as a pure substance or a physical mixture
Pure substance:
* a chemical combination of matter in definite proportions
* has unique properties
* example: Distilled water
*tap (faucet) water is not pure water

29. Physical mixture:
*physical combination of matter in any proportions
*combined properties of the substances in the mixture
*example: salt water
Most of the products used by cosmetologists and nail technicians/estheticians are physical mixtures

30. Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions
All physical mixtures
~ difference between:
*size of the particles
*solubility of the substance

31. Solution:
~ two or more mixable substances
Solute:
~ substance dissolved in a solution
Solvent:
~ dissolves the solute and makes the solution
Water: the universal solvent

32. Miscible liquids
~ mutually soluble
* mixed into stable solutions
ex. water and alcohol
Stays mixed-forms a solution
They do not separate
Ex. Salt water
Immiscible liquids
~ not mixed into stable solutions
ex. water and oil

33. ~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles ~ separate over time
Suspensions
~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles
~ separate over time
*some lotions and creams-needs to be shaken
ex glitter nail polish
oil and vinegar salad dressing
calamine lotion
nail polish

34. Emulsions
~ unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances
~ plus an emulsifier
* brings two incompatible materials and binds them into a fairly stable blend
~ separate over time
~ stable for at least three years
*cosmetics should be used within one year
Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care products.

35. ~ allow oil and water to mix The term=“surface active agent”
Surfactants
~ allow oil and water to mix
The term=“surface active agent”
Head of the surfactant molecule is
Hydrophilic = water-loving
Tail is
Lipophilic = oil-loving
Fig. 12-8

36. Oil-in-water emulsion ~ oil is emulsified in water *do not feel greasy
Read “Did You Know”
Ex. Mayonnaise
~egg yolk emulsifies the oil and the water
Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos, conditioners, hand creams, and facial creams

37. Water-in-oil emulsions ~ water emulsified in oil * feels greasy
ex. Cold cream, styling creams, foot balms
2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg
riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg

38. Other Physical Mixtures
Ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling waxes-semi solid mixtures
Made with petroleum jelly, oil, and wax
Off-the-Scalp powdered lighteners are physical mixtures

39. Other common product ingredients are: Volatile alcohols
~ evaporate easily
* isopropyl alcohol (rubbing)
*ethyl (hairspray)
Fatty alcohols: (nonvolatile alcohol waxes)
cetyl alcohol
cetearyl alcohol
*Skin and hair conditioners

40. ~ used in place of ammonia * less odor
Alkanolamines
~ neutralize acids
~ raise pH of products
~ used in place of ammonia
* less odor

41. Ammonia
~ raises pH in products
~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft
ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer)
ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)

42. ~ moisturizer in skin and body creams
Glycerin
~ moisturizer in skin and body creams
Silicones
~ type of oil in conditioners and skin, nail products
~ less greasy
~ does not cause comedones
~ silky smooth feel on skin
~ shine to hair

43. Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) ~ evaporate very quickly
ex. Hairspray
* SD alcohol (ethyl alcohol)
Volatile organic solvents
*ethyl acetate
*isopropyl alcohols
Ex. Nail polish, base and top coats
polish removers
dailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a b

44. Potential Hydrogen (pH)
small p =quantity
capital H =the hydrogen ion
Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen
Understanding pH
~ affects hair, skin, and nails
~ all salon services

45. ~ carries an electrical charge Ionization
Water and pH
Ion
~ an atom or molecule
~ carries an electrical charge
Ionization
~ separation of an atom or molecule
~into positive and negative
electrical charges
Hairstraightening.net

46. Anion
~ ion
~ negative electrical charge
Cation
~ positive electrical charge

47. Water molecules ionize ~ hydrogen ions ~ hydroxide ions
Acid 4
Water molecules ionize
~ hydrogen ions
~ hydroxide ions
pH scale measures these ions
Hydrogen ions are acidic
Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base)
Neutral
Alkaline 14

48. *only products that contain water can have a pH
Add:
oil and wax cannot be dissolved with water (no pH)
*pure water is neutral pH
-equal balance of acid and alkaline

49. The pH Scale
measures
~ acidity (below 7 acidic)
~ alkalinity (base) of a substance
(above 7 alkaline)

50. Range from 0-14
pH of 7 is a neutral solution
Next slide:everyday foods/products

51. Above 7 alkaline solution
Trc.ucdavis.edu
Below 7 acidic solution
Above 7 alkaline solution
Note: strengths

52. pH is a Logarithmic scale Two whole numbers
~ multiples of 10
pH is a Logarithmic scale
Two whole numbers
10x10=100 times more acidic or alkaline
10 10 x 10=100
pHschool.com

53. 0 5 6 7 14 Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair Pure water
Skin water
neutral
Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair
Pure water
~ hair to swell as much as 20%
~ drying to the skin

54. Acids and Alkalis
Acids-below pH 7.0
***turns litmus paper
~ blue to red
Alpha hydroxy acids:
Derived from plants (mostly fruits)
Acids used in salons exfoliate the skin and adjust the pH of lotions and creams

55. *contract and harden the hair
*thioglycolic acid
~ permanent waving solution

56. Alkalis
“alkali” and “base”
~ interchangeable
*hydroxide ion
*pH above 7
~ litmus paper from red to blue
*feels slippery and soapy on the skin
*softens and swells
~ hair, skin, cuticle, and calloused skin

57. *sodium hydroxide (13 or higher on pH scale)
~ lye
~ very strong alkali
~ drain cleaners
~ chemical hair relaxers
Determine how many times stronger sodium hydroxide is to hair.

58. A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair
FYI
A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair
Same strength as Drain cleaner
Short processing time
Drying to the hair
Can disintegrate the hair if too strong for the hair’s texture

59. Follow manufacturer’s directions
Do not let product touch or sit on the skin
Where safety glasses to avoid eye contact.
Consult MSDS

60. Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions
Acids and alkalis in equal proportions-neutralize each other-forms water
Neutralizing shampoos and normalizing lotions
(used in chemical relaxers) neutralize hair relaxers
Liquid soaps neutralize callous softener residues
A basic understanding of chemistry will help you use professional products effectively and safely in the salon.

61. Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions
acids and alkalis
~ equal proportions
~ neutralize to form water
neutralizing shampoos/normalizing lotions
~ neutralize hydroxide relaxers
~ acid-alkali neutralization reaction

62. The pH scale page 313
understanding pH
~ select the proper shampoo
acidic shampoo ~
alkaline shampoo
~ pH rating of 7.1 or higher
more alkaline
~ stronger and harsher

63. leaves the hair
~ dry
~ brittle
~ porous
~ cause fading in color-treated hair
slightly acidic shampoo
~ more closely matches the ideal pH of hair
Focus On…

64. The pH Scale Acid: 0 – 6.9 Neutral: 7.0 Alkaline: 7.1 – 14
Project-Litmus paper test
Acid :turns Litmus paper from blue to red
Alkalis: turns Litmus paper from red to blue

65. The human body is made up of approximately 70% water and
Add to the side bar: page 314
The human body is made up of
approximately 70% water and
water covers almost 75% of the
Earth’s surface

66. The Chemistry of Water
most abundant and important element on Earth
“universal solvent”
~ dissolves more substances than any other solvent
fresh water
~ purified by sedimentation
~ filtration
chlorine is added to kill bacteria

67. Boiling
~ 212 degrees F destroys most microbes
Distillation
~ heat water to a vapor
~ condense the purified vapor
~ collect as a liquid

68. Duby.unl.edu/chem

69. used in the manufacturing of cosmetics
Water used for:
~ shampooing
~ mixing solutions
~ many other functions

70. The Chemistry of Water Review: Purification Sedimentation Filtration
Chlorine
Boiling
Distillation

71. classified as hard or soft
Soft water
~ rain water
~ chemically softened water
~ allows soap and shampoo to lather freely
~ preferred for shampooing

72. Hard water
~ contains minerals
~ reduced ability of shampoo to lather readily
~ may change the results of haircoloring services
***use demineralizing shampoo

73. The Chemistry of Shampoos
understand
~ chemical and botanical ingredients
~ regularly found in shampoo
Many shampoos have ingredients in common
small differences in formulation makes one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.

74. Water is the main ingredient
~ purified
~ deionized
Usually the first ingredient listed
Ingredients are listed in descending order

75. Surfactants
Second ingredient
~ surfactant
~ base detergent
~ cleansing
~ “surface active agent”

76. A surfactant molecule has two ends:
~ hydrophilic
~ water attracting “head”
~ lipophilic
~ oil attracting “tail”
Pg.com/science/haircare/hair twh 120.htm

77. creates a push-pull process
~ oils, dirt, and deposits
~ roll up into little balls
~ lifted off in the water
~ rinsed from the hair

78. Other ingredients added to surfactants
~wide variety
Moisturizers
Oils
Proteins
Preservatives
Foam enhancers
Perfumes

81. Shampoo

84. Types of Shampoo
shampoo product
~ most $ spent in hair care products
be knowledgeable
~ products you are selling
skilled in demonstrating their use
Your credibility
~ will be in question if client is better informed than you are

85. shampoos for every type of hair or scalp condition
~ dry ~ oily
~ fine ~ coarse
~ limp ~ lightened
~ permed ~ relaxed
~ color-treated ~ chemically treated
~ deposit a slight amount of color
~ cleanse build-up or mineral deposits

86. List of ingredients determines: ~ shiny and manageable
~ treat a scalp or hair condition
~ prepare hair for a chemical treatment

87. pH-Balanced Shampoo
prevents excessive dryness
hair damage during cleansing
close the hair cuticle
Recommended for color treated or lightened

88. Conditioning Shampoos
Known as moisturizing shampoos
make hair appear smooth and shiny
improve manageability
contains protein and biotin (conditioning agents)

89. These conditioning agents: ~ restore moisture ~ elasticity
Keune.com
These conditioning agents:
~ restore moisture
~ elasticity
~ strengthen the hair shaft
~ add volume
~ non-stripping

90. reducing excessive dandruff relieving other scalp conditions
Medicated Shampoos
reducing excessive dandruff
relieving other scalp conditions
some prescribed by physician
quite strong
could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair
Remains on the scalp longer
always read manufacturer’s
instructions
Healthinajiffy.co.uk

91. Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes from the hair
Clarifying Shampoos
Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes from the hair
Helps retain moisture
Makes hair more manageable
used when buildup
is evident (after swimming)
Use prior to chemical services
**also called chelate shampoos
Viewpoints.com
Matrixbeautiful.com

92. wash away excess oiliness prevents the hair from drying out
Balancing Shampoos
for oily hair and scalp
wash away excess oiliness
prevents the hair from drying out
Southyarrahairdressingsupplies.com
Amazon.com
Searchfolica.com

93. wet shampoo uncomfortable hard to manage use a dry or powder shampoo
Dry or Powder Shampoos
wet shampoo uncomfortable
hard to manage
use a dry or powder shampoo
picks up dirt and oils
brush or comb it through the hair
adds volume
follow manufacturer’s instructions
never use before a chemical service
Shopaholicsdaily.com

94. Applying Dry Shampoos
follow manufacturer’s directions
apply scalp to the ends
natural bristle brush
~ remove oil and dirt

95. Color-Enhancing Shampoos
surfactant base with basic color pigments
Similar to temporary color rinses
attracted to porous hair
slight color change
removed with plain
shampooing
Beautystore.com

96. Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs
prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available
Add to the side bar:
Liquid dry shampoos were used on hairpieces and wigs in the 1970’s. It is like a dry cleaning chemical
cdn-

97. Shampooing Clients With Special Needs
disabilities or wheelchair
~ will tell you how they prefer to be shampooed
Options:
~ facing the shampoo bowl
~ bending forward
~ towel to protect their face

98. some will arrive freshly shampooed
others need a dry shampoo
always ask about their preferences
make their comfort and safety a priority

99. Understanding Conditioners
deposit protein or moisturizers
Restore hair’s strength
give body
protect against possible breakage
temporary remedy or cosmetic fix
Can only repair hair to a certain extent
Pauljulian.co.uk

100. grows long enough to be cut off
restores luster
shine
manageability
strength
grows long enough to be cut off
Matrixhaircare.co.u
Hair-style-secrets-revealed.com

101. ~ rinsed out after worked through
Conditioners
~ reconstructor’s
~ hair masks
Rinse-out
*Finishing rinses or
cream rinses
~ rinsed out after worked through
~ detangling
Hairproducts.com
Aurel.com
davidanthonyhairstudio.com

102. ~ deep penetrating conditioners ~15-30 minutes
2. Treatment or repair
~ deep penetrating conditioners
~15-30 minutes
~ restores protein and moisture
*requires longer processing time
~ under a heated dryer for
deeper penetration
Pobox.ph

103. ~ applied, not rinsed out
3. Leave-in
~ applied, not rinsed out
Conditioners contain silicone along with:
~ humectants
~ absorb moisture
~ promote the retention of moisture
Mysimon.com

104. Silicone ~ reflects light ~ hair appears shiny Other ingredients
~ reduce frizz
~ bulk up the hair
Davidanthonyhairstudio.com

105. ~reinforce the hair shaft ***can buildup ***heavy and oily
Proteins
~ penetrate the cortex
~reinforce the hair shaft
***can buildup
***heavy and oily
***shampoo unnecessarily
***strips the hair protective oils
***creating a vicious cycle
so…
Senseof beauty.net
Sallybeauty.com

106. ***use a gentle shampoo
***little conditioner
*** pass on to client’s

107. Healthy cuticle:
~ lies down smoothly
~ reflects light
~ shiny

108. Conditioners, detanglers, cream rinses
smooth the cuticle
~ coat the hair shaft
to achieve healthier looking hair
The cortex
~ 90 % of the hair strand
~ penetrated with protein conditioners
*reinforce the hair shaft from within
~ TEMPORARILY reconstruct the hair

109. NOT IN TEXTBOOK: FYI
Instant Conditioners
remain 1-5 minutes
left in (“leave-in”)
improve dry, brittle hair
pH of
restores the pH
~ alkaline chemical treatment

110. Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are common ingredients in instant
Add to the side bar in very small lettering: **more to add on next two slides
Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are
common ingredients in instant
conditioners, work as pearlizing
agents with a glossy finish
This conditioner has both ingredients listed
within the first 8 ingredients
naturallycurly.com

111. Add to side bar: Lanolin derivatives are often included
in conditioner formulas for fine
hair because of their light
molecular weight

112. The size of the molecules, the distribution
Add:
The size of the molecules, the distribution
of molecular weights, how much salt
the product contains, and how the
protein is hydrolized, all determine a
products effectiveness on the hair

113. Other Conditioning Agents
*Spray-on thermal protectors
~ applied to hair prior to any thermal (heat) service
*Scalp conditioners
~ cream base
~ soften and improve the
health of the scalp
shop.harveynichols.com/.../xlarge/282095_1.jpg

114. *Medicated Scalp Lotions
~ promotes healing
Add: control dandruff
*Scalp Astringent Lotions
~ remove oil accumulation
~ after scalp treatment
~ before styling

115. Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor
Add to the side bar:
Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor
Color rinses add temporary color to the hair

116. Not in Textbook: FYI
Moisturizers (side bar notes later in P.P.)
heavier and creamier need for test
15-30 minutes
more penetrating
longer staying power
Quaternary ammonium compounds are included to attach to hair fibers
provide longer-lasting protection

117. Not in Textbook:FYI Protein Conditioners
Concentrated protein conditioners (brown liquid)
increase hair diameter need for test
adding body
improve the tensile strength (stretching ability)
temporarily closes split ends
passes through the cuticle
penetrates the cortex

118. replaces keratin
improves appearance
equalizes porosity
increases elasticity
not given immediately following a chemical treatment
~ may alter the desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by perms, relaxers or haircolor

119. Deep Conditioning Treatments
~ hair masks
~ conditioning packs
concentrated protein
~ heavy cream base moisturizer
equal degree of moisturizing
and protein

120. Side bar notes:
Moisturizers- heavier, creamier formulation-longer processing time.
Concentrated protein-recognized by brown liquid appearance.
Masks/packs-are chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in the heavy cream base of a moisturizer.

121. Draping
Client draping is important
Contributes to the clients safety and comfort
Wet clothing/haircolor or perm solution on clothing…completely avoidable with a professional draping

122. Two types of draping:
Shampoo draping or wet draping
Chemical draping
Wet draping-hair styling or haircutting services
Textbook: one towel under cape/one towel over cape. Remove after shampoo and replace with a sanex strip.
Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece on clothing-towel-cape

123. Chemical draping-haircolor/ lightening, permanent wave and chemical relaxer services.
Textbook: towel under cape/one towel over cape,
leave on for chemical service.
Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece-towel-cape
Drape for chemical service prior to applying chemicals.

124. FMD-is a shampoo required before a chemical product
If shampoo is required…shampoo gently
Before chemical service is to begin-redrape for a chemical service.

125. Three-Part Procedure
Keeps track of what you are doing:
pre-service
Actual service
Post-service

126. Part one: Pre-service procedure
Organized step-by-step plan
Cleaning and disinfecting tools, implements, and materials
Setting up your station
Meeting, greeting, and escorting your client

127. Part two: Service procedure
Organized step-by-step plan
for the actual service
Part three:
Organized step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the procedure
Scheduling
Payment process
Prepare for next client

128. With each massage movement ~ place the hands under the hair
Mrs. Mandato:The rest of the slides are Not in Textbook- Important
With each massage movement
~ place the hands under the hair
~ use length of the fingers
~ balls of the fingertips
~ cushions of the palms
~ stimulate the
muscles, nerves,
and blood vessels of
the scalp area

129. Shampoo Procedures
Good posture
~ protect against muscle aches
~ back strain
~ discomfort
~ fatigue
~ other physical problems that can result from performing shampoos

130. Flickr.com
Agendamag.com
Zero-flex.com

131. Correct posture
~ maintain an attractive image
~ always keep your shoulders back
~ avoid slumping over the client
~ hold abdomen in

132. Free-standing shampoo bowls ~ allow for healthier body alignment
~ help reduce strain on the back and shoulders
Voip-forum.tmcnet.com

133. Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
drier and more fragile
use a mild shampoo
tends to tangle

134. use wide-toothed comb
~ gently remove tangles
~ beginning at the nape
~ work your way up
use a conditioner if necessary
relaxed or straightened hair needs moisturizing before drying