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Byzantine-High Medieval

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Presentation on theme: "Byzantine-High Medieval"— Presentation transcript:

1 Byzantine-High Medieval
Brigeda Hernandez Sourcebook 1 History of Fashion Byzantine-High Medieval

2 Altuzarra’s skirt is wrapped in the same fashion with similar gold trim
Vlamos, Yannis Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York King Tut and his queen. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Print.

3 Egyptian king, court official, and fanbearer
This dress had a lot of intricate folds and drapery, much like the elite wore in ancient Egypt. Probably the same colors as well. Vlamos, Yannis Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York. Braun, and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures. New-York: Dover Publ., Print.

4 Harkness, Edward. Statuette of Amun. Digital image
Harkness, Edward. Statuette of Amun. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/eg/web-large/DT553.jpg>. Some designers, especially Gareth Pugh, still love big headdresses!! The god Amun ("the hidden one") first came into prominence at the beginning of the Middle Kingdom. From the New Kingdom onward, Amun was arguably the most important god in the Egyptian pantheon. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

5 By the New Kingdom, broad collar necklaces were the most frequently worn pieces of jewelry among the royalty and elite in ancient Egypt. This necklace belonged to one of three foreign wives of Thutmose III. Although big jewelry is often associated with the 80s, it’s seen a big comeback today as well, with chunky necklaces, bracelets, and big earrings. Fletcher Fund. Broad Collar. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=3&ft=ancient+egypt&pos=43>. Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent Photograph. Style.com Accessories, n.p.

6 Dick Fund, Harris B. , Fletcher Fund, Lila W
Dick Fund, Harris B., Fletcher Fund, Lila W. Gift, Dodge Fund, and Wallace Fund. Fragment of a Floor Mosaic with a Personification of Ktisis. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=byzantine&pos=17>. Headbands of all sizes have been very in for the past few years. Very big in the hipster style if you will. This monumental bust of a richly bejeweled lady who wears large pearls in her ears, a necklace of delicate stones about her throat, and two brooches—one clasping her yellow mantle and another at the tie of her dress—is an example of the exceptional mosaics created throughout the Early Byzantine world in the first half of the sixth century. Delicate Filigree Headwrap. Digital image. Urban Outfitters. Urban Outfitters, Web. 29 Sept <http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/urban/catalog/productdetail.jsp?id= &parentid=W_ACC_HAIRACCESSORIES>.

7 Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph
Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Ann Demeulemeester RTW Spring 2013, Paris. Empress Theodora and members of her court, glass and stone Tesserae Fletcher Fund. Empress Theodora and Members of Her Court. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ >. Long cloaks are still very common today, for fashion and for functionality.

8 Grancsay, Stephen V. Helmet (Spangenhelm). Digital image
Grancsay, Stephen V. Helmet (Spangenhelm). Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=spangenhelm+&pos=1>. This is one of a group of twenty-seven very similar Spangenhelme (literally, strap helmets), all of which date from the sixth century. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Philip Treacy RTW Spring 2013, London. Although not many of us would wear a helmet, it’s good for making a runway statement.

9 Much like the Byzantine era, both men’s and women’s clothing are often bejeweled and decorated.
Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Manish Arora RTW Spring 2013, Paris. Braun, and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures. New-York: Dover Publ., Print.

10 Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013
The head is ancient but from another statue. Restorations by the eighteenth-century Italian sculptor Vincenzo Pacetti: (on Dionysos) ivy wreath, neck, both arms, lower right leg, calf and boot of left leg, hanging drapery on right side; (on the archaistic image) uplifted corner of drapery, both arms, lower half of lower legs, feet, pedestal, entire base.
Roman copy of Greek original. Drapery seen in ancient Rome and Greece is very similar to the draping we see today. Richmond Foundation, Frederick, Judy and Michael Steinhardt, and Alfred Taubman. Statue of Dionysos Leaning on a Female Figure. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ >. Vlamos, Yannis Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013

11 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra Resort 2013, New York. Comp. Altuzarra.
Adaptation of a Greek statue of the 3rd century B.C. Among the preserved monuments of ancient art, there is no more sympathetic portrait of the Greek intellectual than this bronze statuette of a philosopher. The subject of this portrait can be identified as a member of the Epicurean school of philosophy. Epicuros ( B.C.) The infamous toga seems to have survived and given way to the ever so popular one-shoulder dress in fashion. Rogers Fund. Bronze Statuette of a Philosopher on a Lamp Stand. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=epicuros&pos=1>. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra Resort 2013, New York. Comp. Altuzarra.

12 Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph
Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2013, Paris. The basic garment for many ancient civilizations was a simple white dress. It has survived to modern day, and will probably continue to do so. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Print.

13 Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013,
Both images share a wrapped skirt and similar oblique lines. They are both simple yet sophisticated. Vlamos, Yannis Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Print.

14 Swimsuit by Victoria’s Secret
Although we might think bikinis became popular in the 1960s, they were clearly popular before then. The Romans used something similar to a bikini as an exercise outfit. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Print.

15 Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History
Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Print. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Chalayan RTW Spring 2013, Paris. Wigs and hats will always be popular in some way, shape or form. The picture on the left appears to be the start of a bonnet, which probably gave way to the fashionable floppy hats on the right.

16 Roman general and Germanic standard-bearer
Warriors in Rome often had all the ornate decorations. The embellishment on the dress below is reminiscent of that. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra Resort 2013, New York. Comp. Altuzarra. Braun, and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures. New-York: Dover Publ., Print.

17 Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York.
Gladiator sandals have seen a definite resurgence as of late Braun, and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures. New-York: Dover Publ., Print.

18 Belts were important features of early medieval dress
Belts were important features of early medieval dress. Not only did they serve the practical function of holding weapons and tools, but their fittings, which could vary in terms of material, decoration, and size, were also highly visible indicators of rank and status. Morgan, Joseph. Buckle. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 25 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=early+medieval&when=A.D &where=Europe&pos=7>. Belts will always be around, whether they’re simple or elaborate. In women’s wear they usually serve to accentuate the waist, and in men’s they serve a more functional purpose. Maitre, Dominique Photograph. Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

19 Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Hermes RTW Spring 2013, Paris
Rogers Fund. Textile Fragment With Hunting Scene. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 25 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=2&ao=on&ft=early+medieval&when=A.D &pos=36>. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Hermes RTW Spring 2013, Paris While embroidery like this isn’t all too common these days, some designers still take the time to illustrate different scenes on their clothes.

20 Buckner, Michael. Gwyneth Paltrow. 2012. Photograph
Buckner, Michael. Gwyneth Paltrow Photograph Oscars: Fashion Police, Los Angeles. A note on this one: I had a really hard time finding an image from modern day, so I settled on the first fashionable cape-like picture I found This panel by Simone Martini depicts the fourth-century martyr and first apostle of Siena Saint Ansanus. Martini, Simone. Saint Ansanus. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ >.

21 The Christ Child seated in a frontal pose on the Virgin's lap is a sculptural type known as the Throne of Wisdom, or Sedes Sapientiae. Beneath her blue mantle the Virgin wore a red robe. That same red, also decorated with tin leaf, is found on the Child's himation (the overgarment that falls over his shoulder), while his tunic (now light green) was originally a darker green with red lining. Both throne and base were painted in imitation of colored marbles and precious stones. Cloisters Collection, and James Rorimer Memorial Fund. Enthroned Virgin and Child. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 20 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ >. Same as before, many designers use headdresses to pull their collections together and make a statement. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Junya Watanabe RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

22 Stained glass, whether intentionally or not, seems to sneak its way in to certain looks now and then. Perhaps this is wear color blocking got its start? Imaxtree.com Photograph. Jeremy Scott Fall 2010, n.p Nasitir, Mr & Mrs Iain. Stained Glass Fragment with an Angel Appearing to a Deacon Saint with the Symbols of the Four Evangelists. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=2&ao=on&ft=stained+glass&pos=22>.

23 This illustration of the Temple in Jerusalem shows many cloak-like garments, which could easily be an inspiration for the modern take on the right. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Aganovich RTW Spring 2013, Paris. Friedman, Harry G. The Temple in Jerusalem. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/ >.

24 While it was difficult to find a picture of a long, flowing garment as seen in this illustration from The Book of Hours, the headdress and fabric around the neck are similar. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Commes Des Garcons RTW Spring 2013, Paris. Drexel, Joseph. Book of Hours. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ >.

25 Breaking with convention, the artist shows the Madonna’s birth in contemporary terms. In the background the newborn baby is bathed by midwives, while in the foreground women greet each other. The imposing palace, patterned on the ducal palace of Urbino, is decorated with reliefs derived from Roman sculpture. Both pictures feature long, simple dresses, which will probably never go out of style. Carnevale, Fra. Birth of the Virgin. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Web. 30 Sept <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/ ?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=medieval+paintings&pos=14>. Giannoni, Giovanni Photograph. Francesco Scognamiglio Spring RTW 2013, Milan.


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