1. Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

2. Terms to know:
Wave height: vertical distance from lowest (trough) part of wave to highest (crest) part of wave.
Amplitude: height of crest above still water level (1/2 wave height)
Wavelength: horizontal distance between two crests
Period: time between two adjacent crests

3. Diagram to show terms:

4. Diagram of wave properties

5. Speed of wave Equation

6. Wave Steepness

7. Deep Water depth = Wavelength/2

8. Deep water wave equations
Wavelength (L) = 1.56 x wave period (T) squared
𝐿=1.56 (𝑇 2 )
Wave speed (C) = 1.56 x wave period (T) (m/s)
𝐶=1.56𝑇
Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L)/Wave period (T)
𝐶=𝐿/𝑇

9. Shallow water depth = wavelength/20

10. Shallow water wave equations
Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x √Depth of ocean (D)
𝐶=3.13 𝐷
Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L) / Wave period (T)
𝐶= 𝐿 𝑇 (𝑚/𝑠)
Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x

11. Question 6: Measuring Waves

12. Question 7: Measuring Waves