1. Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions

2. “Make a game of finding something positive in every situation
“Make a game of finding something positive in every situation. Ninety-five percent of your emotions are determined by how you interpret events to yourself.” – Brian Tracy

3. Objectives
Explain the differences between human hair wigs and synthetic wigs.
Describe the two basic categories of wigs.
Describe the various types of hairpieces and their uses.
Explain several different methods of attaching extensions.
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
Wigs, hairpieces, and hair extensions can be great fun in addition to being another source of income for the stylist. Wigs have been worn throughout history, dating back some 6,000 years ago to the Egyptians, when their primary purpose was to protect the hair from the sun. The use of wigs spread from Egypt to Asia to Europe and then to America, and was a great symbol of status. In fact, until about the middle of the twentieth century, only the very wealthy could wear wigs because they were so expensive.
In the 1960s, inexpensive, synthetic wigs were introduced, and wig salons could be found on every other corner. Wigs were worn simply for fun and to change appearance with one’s mood. In '60 and '70s, longer hair was the style for men. Therefore, many young men in the military actually wore wigs when not on duty to be more fashionable. The use of wigs dropped off significantly in the 1980s with the success of blow-drying and the more natural look in hair styles. However, today we are seeing a renewed enthusiasm for the use of wigs and hair extensions, as much for fun as for any other reason.
In addition to the novel aspect of wearing hair enhancements, wigs and hairpieces can be extremely helpful to those who have temporary or permanent hair loss. They are also used extensively in theater and film productions by both male and female actors. It is beneficial to the cosmetologist to learn how to purchase wigs, how to block and fit them, how to maintain them, and how to select the most appropriate style for each client.
This lesson looks at all aspects of wigs and hair enhancements.

4. Important Role in Fashion
Working with wigs and hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most clients buy wigs off the shelf or on the Internet.
Wigs are rarely custom fitted today.
Toupees are often custom fitted.

5. Range of Hair Additions
Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails, chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in which strands are attached individually. Single strands are hand-tied onto individual strands of natural hair (which requires specialized training).

6. Wigs Human hair test Human hair advantages More realistic
Greater durability
Same styling and maintenance as natural hair
WIGS: Artificial coverings for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. They completely conceal 100 percent of the client’s hair. A hairpiece is a small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head.
HUMAN HAIR WIGS
To see if the wig or hairpiece is made of human hair, pull one hair strand out and burn with a match. Human hair will burn slowly, giving off a distinctive odor. A synthetic fiber like kanekalon will either ball up or melt, extinguishing itself. Polyester will continue to flame and burn out very quickly. Synthetic fibers give off no odors.
ADVANTAGES OF HUMAN HAIR WIGS
More realistic appearance
Greater durability
Same styling and maintenance requirements as natural hair. They can be colored, and permed, and can tolerate heat from a blow-dryer, curling iron, and hot rollers.

7. Disadvantages of Human Hair
Climate reactions
Required resetting after shampooing
Oxidizing color
Breaking and splitting hair
DISADVANTAGES OF HUMAN HAIR WIGS
Reaction to climate is the same as natural hair.
Resetting is required after shampooing.
Color will oxidize, meaning it will fade with exposure to light.
Hair will break and split. Harsh brushing, back combing, and excessive heat, can damage.

8. Synthetic Hair Advantages
Strength and durability
Great value
Pre-set style and texture
Almost unlimited color selection
No fading or oxidizing with sun exposure

9. Synthetic Disadvantages
Low tolerance to extreme heat
Traditional haircolor not recommended for
Unnatural shine and thickness
Correlation between price and quality

10. Quality and Cost of Human Hair
Top of line: European
Second: Indian and Asian
Third: mixture of human and animal hair
Fourth: human hair mixed with synthetic hair
QUALITY AND COST OF HUMAN HAIR
European hair is top of the line. Virgin hair is the most costly, followed by color-treated hair.
Hair from India and Asia is the next most expensive. Indian hair is naturally wavy and usually available in lengths from 12 to 16 inches. Asian hair is naturally straight and available in lengths of 12 to 28 inches.
Human hair mixed with animal hair is the least expensive. Animal hair may be angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair. Yak hair is taken from the animal’s belly and is the purest of whites. Mixed-hair products are often used in theatrical or fashion settings.
The mix is often half human and half synthetic hair. These wigs and hairpieces blend the advantages and disadvantages of both and can be a good option if chosen in the best color and texture for the client.

11. Wig Selection Questions
What is it made of?
Natural or artificially colored?
What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity?
Is the cuticle intact?
Is it fallen hair?
WIG SELECTION QUESTIONS
What is it made of? Human or animal hair, or a mixture of both?
Is it natural or artificially colored?
What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity?
Is cuticle intact? In turned hair the roots and ends are facing the same way, so the cuticles all slope in the same direction. This hair is in better condition and easier to work with. Turning the hair is a time-consuming process and increases the cost.
Is it fallen hair? Fallen hair is hair that has been shed from the head and perhaps gathered from a hairbrush, rather than cut.

12. Wig Selection Questions (continued)
Is it tangle free?
What is the condition?
Does color match client’s?
Can it be permed?
Will it last for four to six months?

13. Wig Defined
An artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. A wig completely conceals 100 percent of the natural hair.

14. Hair Addition Defined
A hairpiece or small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head, or a hair attachment of some sort

15. Types of Wigs Cap: often hand-knotted Capless: machine-made
Light and comfortable
Allow scalp to breathe
Ready for immediate wear
TYPES OF WIGS
CAP: Often handmade. Constructed with an elasticized mesh-fiber (like the weave of a nylon stocking) to which the hair is attached. Made in several sizes and require fittings; often hand-knotted.
CAPLESS: Machine-made. The hair, whether human or artificial, is woven into long strips called wefts (like the weave of a fishnet stocking). Rows of wefts are sewn to elastic strips in a circular pattern to fit the head shape.

16. Construction Methods Hand-tied or hand-knotted Semi-hand-tied
Machine-made
CONSTRUCTION METHODS
HAND-TIED OR HAND-KNOTTED: Made by inserting individual strands of hair into a mesh foundation and knotting them with a needle. Done around front hairline and top of head; have a natural, realistic look.
SEMI-HAND-TIED: Made with a combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair. Reasonably priced; offer natural appearance and durability.
MACHINE-MADE: Least expensive option. Wefts are fed through a sewing machine and sewn together to form the base and shape of the wig.

17. Taking Measurements
Each manufacturer has its own form to fill out that notes the required measurements.
Follow those specifications using a soft measuring tape.

18. Blocking the Wig
A block is a head-shaped form usually made of canvas- covered cork or styrofoam. It is used for fitting, coloring, and sometimes styling.
Six sizes, ranging from 20 to 22 inches
Swivel clamp: used to hold block, allowing for greater control when styling

19. Putting On and Sizing Wig
Secure hair
Shorten wig from front to nape (horizontal tuck)
Shorten wig in back (vertical tuck)
PUTTING ON AND SIZING WIG. Educate the client in the correct method for preparing her hair to receive a wig.
The client’s skill at securing her hair under the wig cap and making it flat and even will determine how well the wig sits on her head. If the wig does not fit properly—for instance, if it is too large and does not have tightening straps or elastic—you can create a small fold or tuck and sew the wig along the inside to create a seam.
To shorten the wig from front to nape and remove bulk, create a horizontal tuck or fold across the back.
To remove width at the back, create a vertical tuck and sew it in place. Keep in mind that sewing the wig to create a customized fit is a highly specialized art.

20. Wig Tools and Implements
Boar-bristle brush
Soft measuring tape
Duckbill clips
Hair and bobby pins
Neck strip
Specialized needle and thread
Specialized products
T-pins
Wig block
Wig caps

21. Toupee Tools Block Clips Specialized adhesive
Specialized needle and thread
Specialized tape
T-pins

22. Cutting the Wig Objective: to make hair look realistic
Taper ends to make shape look less solid.

23. Basic Cutting Methods Cut on head block.
Comb out and finish on client.
Free-form cutting
BASIC CUTTING METHODS. Blunt, layered, and graduated haircuts as desired. Use the same sectioning and elevations as on a real head of hair.
If you use free-form cutting, always work toward the weight. Vertical sections create lightness. Diagonal sections create a rounder beveled edge. Horizontal sections build heavier weight (Figures 19–7 to 19–9).
To use this visual approach, begin by cutting a small section and observe how the hair falls. Your next step will be based on how the hair responds.
Draw a diagram of the silhouette or have handy a photo image for reference. These will work as a kind of blueprint for you to follow.
Free-form cutting is usually done on dry hair, which allows you to see more easily how the hair will fall.

24. Basic Cutting Methods (continued)
Practice cutting.
Begin with shadow cut.
Cut second wig dry.
Repeat exercise with other tools.
To practice wig cutting, buy two inexpensive, ready-to-wear wigs in the same style. Take a photo for reference purposes. Draw a diagram of the sections, indicating how you are going to cut the wigs. This way, you can rehearse your plan before even picking up the shears.
Begin your practice with the shadow cut. Trim the wigs following the original design that has been precut into the wig, but cut the first wig wet. Then air-dry it and evaluate the style. Trim the second wig, following the same style, but this time cut it dry. Take photos of both results, and evaluate the looks you have achieved with both dry and wet cutting.
You will discover that the wet cutting method was more controlled and technical, while the dry cutting method was freer and more abstract. Often, the more abstract method results in a cut that looks more realistic.
Repeat the above exercise with a razor, thinning shears, and standard haircutting shears using the tapering method only. Compare the results.
ACTIVITY: Suggest students invest in the activity found in their textbook in which they practice cutting inexpensive wigs.

25. Styling the Wig Use low heat. Treat gently and kindly.
Use soft-bristle brushes.
Use block for coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outline.
STYLING THE WIG. Procedure is much the same as it is for human hair, except for ensuring coverage at the hairline and nape.

26. Styling Tips for Hairline
Choose products carefully.
Backcomb gently.
Blend client’s hair into wig hair.
Employ wind test.
Create little imperfections.
STYLING TIPS FOR HAIRLINE
Choose styling products formulated for color-treated hair.
Backcomb gently around hairline. The fluffy effect softens hairline.
Release the client’s hair around hairline and blend into wig hair.
Employ the wind test. Use a blow-dyer set at cool and low and blow around client’s face. Observe how hairline looks.
Create little imperfections for a more realistic look. Use hands rather than a brush for a more natural look. Do not plaster hair down.

27. Wig Cleaning Follow manufacturer’s directions.
Use gentle, acid-balanced product.
Avoid sulfur-based or dandruff shampoos.
WIG CLEANING. Always follow manufacturer directions. If shampooing is recommended, use a gentle, acid-balanced product. Avoid sulfur based or dandruff shampoos.

28. Coloring Wigs and Hair Additions
Color rings: 70 colors, from black to pale blonde
Range from black to pale blonde
Most common color level: 1
White yak hair for fantasy colors
Check cuticle
Always strand test
Conduct regular color checks
COLORING WIGS AND HAIR ADDITIONS
All synthetic haircolors used for wigs and hairpieces are standardized according to the 70 colors on the haircolor ring used by wig and hairpiece manufacturers. The colors range from black to pale blond.
Because most commercially available hair originates in either India or China, the most common natural color level is 1, or black. It is very difficult to lift level 1 to level 10.
At the other end of the spectrum is white yak hair, which is an excellent base for adding color. Yak hair is especially good to use with fantasy colors that appeal to some younger clients. If you are going to custom-color the hair, use hair that has been decolorized (bleached) through the lifting process, not with metallic dyes. Be sure to check the manufacturer's instructions.
When coloring a wig, first check to see if the cuticle is intact. Hair in which the cuticle is absent is very porous and will react to color in an extreme manner.
Always strand-test the hair prior to a full-color application. Use semipermanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse, or color mousse products. Use permanent haircolor on human hair wigs unless the hair is porous, in which case semipermanent color is the better choice.
When coloring a human hair wig or hair addition, conduct regular color checks every five to ten minutes. Remember that the hair you are working on did not come from one head, but from many different heads, so it may be unpredictable. Often, it is easier to color the client’s hair to match a hair addition than to color the addition itself.

29. Perming Wigs Perm human hair wigs only. Cover wig block.
Pin securely to head form.
Perm as normal.
PERMING WIGS. This can only be done on human hair wigs and should always be done with the wig off the head. You first need to know how the hair was colored: Was it decolorized (bleached) or dyed with metallic dye? Do NOT perm hair that has been subjected to metallic dye.
1. Cover head form with plastic.
2. Pin wig securely to head form.
3. Perm as for normal head of hair.

30. Hairpieces 20 percent to 70 percent coverage
Usually temporary (not worn at night)
HAIRPIECES
A hairpiece gives 20 percent to 70 percent coverage. Hairpieces are set on top of the head and are usually attached by temporary methods (not worn at night).
NOTE: Have as many different hairpieces as possible available for students to view.

31. Hairpiece Types
Integration hairpieces (natural hair is pulled through openings to blend with hairpiece)
Toupees
Fashion hairpieces
INTEGRATION HAIRPIECES: These pieces have an opening in the base through which the client’s own hair is pulled to blend with the hair of the hairpiece. See Figure 19–34 and 19–35.

32. Toupees Temporary attachment Semipermanent attachment Custom designed
TOUPEES: Small wigs used to cover the top and crown of the head.
Temporary attachment (tape or clips)
Semipermanent attachment (weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing)
The best are custom designed. This craft can be learned from top manufacturers. (Figures 19–36 and 19–37)

33. Fashion Hairpieces Wraparound ponytail
FASHION HAIRPIECES: Vary in size and constructed on stiff net base. Attached with pins, clips, combs, bobby pins, or elastic.
Wraparound ponytail: Long length of wefted hair that covers 10 percent to 20 percent of head. Used for a ponytail or chignon.

34. Fashion Hairpieces (continued)
A cascade of curls attached with a comb
Cascade: A hairpiece with an oblong-shaped base that is attached with a comb.

35. Fashion Hairpieces (continued)
Hair wrap
HAIR WRAP: Mounted on an elastic hoop. Further secured to client’s hair with hairpins.

36. Hair Extensions Determine length/thickness needed.
Determine desired look and map it.
Stay 1 inch away from hairline.
Ensure base does not show.
Match curl pattern.
Fewer extensions needed for curly hair.
HAIR EXTENSIONS: Hair additions that are secured to the base of the client’s natural hair in order to add length, volume, texture, or color. Manufacturers generally offer training in the attachment of hair extensions, but there are certain general guidelines to keep in mind:
Decide whether you are adding length, thickness, or both.
Determine desired look and map it out.
Stay 1 inch away from hairline at front, sides, nape, and part.
Be careful that base does not show through on thin hair.
Match curl pattern.
Fewer extensions may be required for curly hair.

37. Professional Approach
Safety for client’s hair
Comfort
Security
Style and fashion
PROFESSIONAL APPROACH
The most important professional approaches to hair addition and extension services are, in order of importance:
Safety for the client's own hair
Comfort: there should be no pulling or pinching; avoid excess tension on the natural hair.
Security: make certain the additions will not fall off. If they are attached with a semi-permanent method such as braid-and-sew, bonding, or fusion bonding, be certain that they will last several weeks before they are removed or require readjustment to accommodate the natural hair’s growth.
Style and fashion

38. Braid-and-Sew Attachment
Extensions are secured at base of client’s own hair by sewing. Hair is attached to an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow that serves as the track. Tracks may be positioned horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along curved lines that follow the contours of the head. Fiber filler may be used to help grip the client’s hair and create a longer-lasting braid to attach weft.

39. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Procedure
Partings
Size of sections
Hidden ends of braids
Position tracks 1 inch behind hairline
Blunt, custom-designed needle
BRAID-AND-SEW ATTACHMENT PROCEDURE: Extensions are secured at the base of the client’s own hair by sewing. Hair is attached to an on-the-scalp braid, or cornrow, which serves as the track. Tracks may be positioned horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along curved lines that follow the contours of the head.
Partings: Determined by style chosen.
Size of sections: Determined by the amount of hair that will be added.
Ends of braids should be hidden.
Position tracks should be 1 inch behind hairline to ensure coverage.
Use blunt, custom-designed needle, straight or curved. Blunt ends will avoid damage to hair, client, and you.

40. Lock Stitch Cut thread and pass needle through weft.
Create loop and pass needle through loop.
Pull loop tight to lock stitch.
LOCK STITCH
Cut thread double length of weft being sewn.
Pass needle through weft.
Pull thread through to create loop.
Pass needle through loop and wrap around needle.
Pull loop tight to lock stitch.

41. Double-Lock Stitch Duplicates lock stitch.
Thread is wound around needle twice to create the double lock.
DOUBLE-LOCK STITCH
Duplicates lock stitch, with one exception: Thread is wound around the needle twice to create the double lock.

42. Overcast Stitch Pass needle under track and weft.
Bring needle back over to make new stitch.
Repeat stitch along track to end.
Complete with lock stitch.
OVERCAST STITCH: This simple, quick stitch can be used to secure the entire length of the weft to the track.
Pass needle under both the track and the weft.
Bring needle back over to make a new stitch.
Move along track and repeat the stitch until you reach the end.
Complete with a lock stitch for security.

43. Braid-and-Sew Advantages
Very safe
Requires no special equipment

44. Bonding Procedure Section off hair at nape. Measure first weft.
Lay weft on flat surface.
Use consistent amount of adhesive.

45. Bonding Procedure (continued)
Hold for 20 seconds.
Blowdry to seal.
Proceed to next section.
Avoid working too close to crown.
Perform patch test.
Do not perform on damaged hair.
Avoid exposure of wefts to oil.
Avoid bonding to wefts 12 inches or longer.

46. Removing Bonding Dissolve adhesive bond with oil or bond remover.
Technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are cut into very small sections.
REMOVING BONDING
Bonded wefts are removed by dissolving the adhesive bond with oil or bond remover. The same technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are cut into very small sections. This is called strand bonding.

47. Bonding Advantages Affordable and timely Can be gently shampooed
Two advantages of bonding are that it can be offered at a very affordable price and the service does not take much longer than the average haircut appointment. Also, the client can shampoo with the wefts in, as long as it is done gently.

48. Bonding Disadvantages
Allergies to ingredients in adhesive
Patch test
Inappropriate for severely damaged hair
Exposure to oils
BONDING DISADVANTAGES
One drawback of bonding is that some clients may have an allergic reaction to the ingredients in the bonding adhesive. Always perform a patch test prior to the application of bonded extensions, especially when using a latex-based adhesive. Also, bonding is not appropriate for clients who have severely damaged hair, or those who do not have enough natural hair to hide the wefts. The wefts cannot be exposed to oils or they will slide off.

49. Fusion Bonding Method Expensive and time consuming
Harmonizes with natural hair
Light and comfortable
FUSION BONDING METHOD: Extension hair is bonded to client’s hair with a bonding material activated by heat from a special tool.

50. Fusion Bonding Method (continued)
Lasts up to four months
Wrapping a keratin-based strip
Extension strand under natural hair

51. Fusion Bonding Method (continued)
Heating element applied
Bond rolled between fingers
Hair more quickly dried
Variation of colors

52. Linking
A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting. The link slides close to scalp using a special tool. The extension is inserted into link.

53. Linking Issues Link is pinched flat with pliers.
If removed properly, link can be reused.
Natural hair should be 5 or more inches long.
Styling versatility is a plus.
Method is expensive and time consuming.

54. Tube Shrinking
The client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into a tube that is then heated to shrink it. The method requires special tools and training.

55. Tube Shrinking Issues Follow logical placement pattern.
Pay attention to natural growth patterns.
Provide home-care instructions.
Clients must follow home-care instructions.
Regular salon follow-up required.

56. Retailing Hair Addition Products
Identify client’s needs.
Explain value of investment.
Describe features and benefits.
Discuss performance and cost.
Choose high-quality pieces.
Believe in recommendations.
Price appropriately (based on time spent, materials, expertise, and local market).

57. Practice
The more practice you have with hair extensions, the more skilled you will become.

58. Summary and Review
What are the main advantages and disadvantages of human hair wigs and synthetic hair wigs?
What are the two basic categories of wigs?
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
In this lesson you've learned that wigs have been in and out of fashion for over 6,000 years. You've also learned that there will always be a practical need for the ability to style wigs, since they are used to camouflage hair loss even when it is not the fashion trend to wear them. Hairpieces, wigs, extensions, and weaves will always be used in some manner to help cover irreplaceable hair loss. As a cosmetologist, it will be necessary for you to master the techniques of fitting, cutting, styling, and possibly coloring wigs, all with the interests and comfort of the client foremost in your mind.
Working with hair additions is one of the most exciting, challenging, and lucrative areas of the industry. To become skilled in these techniques requires practice.
1. What are the main advantages and disadvantages of human hair and synthetic hair?
Answer: Human hair can appear more realistic, has greater durability and the same styling and maintenance requirements as natural hair. It can be custom colored and permed to suit the client, and it tolerates heat from a blow-dryer, curling iron, or hot rollers. Disadvantages are that it reacts to the climate the way that natural hair does. After shampooing, it needs to be reset, which can be a challenge for the client who intends to maintain the hair at home. Also, the color will fade, and the hair will break and split if mistreated.
Advantages of synthetic hair are that it is strong and durable. It can also look very natural and is a great value, or less expensive than human hair. It is easy to maintain at home, and most synthetic wigs, hairpieces, and extensions are cut according to the latest styles, with the cut, color, and texture already set. The colors are limitless, and synthetic colors won’t fade. The drawbacks of synthetic hair are that it cannot be exposed to extreme heat, and that coloring is not recommended, as traditional haircolor will not work on them. Sometimes synthetic hair is so shiny that it may not look natural.
2. What are the two basic categories of wigs?
Answer: The two basic categories of wigs are cap and capless.

59. Summary and Review (continued)
What are the three types of hairpieces, and how are they used?
What are the five methods for attaching hair extensions? Describe each.
3. What are three types of hairpieces and how are they used?
Answer:
Integration pieces: Recommended for clients with thinning hair.
Toupees: Small wigs used to cover the top and crown of the head; because of the fine net base, usually the most appropriate material for the client with severe hair loss.
Fashion hairpieces: Used for special occasions or as fashion accessories.
4. What are five methods for attaching hair extensions? Describe each.
Sewing: Hair extensions are secured to client’s own hair by sewing wefts onto an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow.
Bonding: Hair wefts are attached with an adhesive or bonding agent. The adhesive is applied to the weft with an applicator gun created specifically for bonding.
Fusion: Extension hair is bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from a special tool.
Linking: A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting. A link is slid on close to the scalp with a special tool, then an extension or special addition strand is inserted into the link. Once the extension and the natural hair are captured in the link, the link is pinched flat with pliers.
Tube shrinking: The client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into a tube, which is then heated to shrink it.

60. You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.
Congratulations!
You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.