1. Chemistry of Cosmetics CHEM 460
Dr Violeta Jevtovic

2. Chapter 1
1.1. Meaning of the terms cosmetics and cosmetology.
1.2. Cosmetology as a science and an academic discipline.
1.3. The role of cosmetics in health policy .
1.4. Legislation on cosmetic products

3. Cosmetics
Cosmetics (colloquially known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body.
They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds, some being derived from natural sources and many being synthetics.

4. In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
defines cosmetics as
"intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition also includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

5. Cosmetology
Cosmetology is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty includes hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, and electrology.

8. History
The word cosmetics derives from the Greek κοσμητικὴ τέχνη (kosmetikē tekhnē), meaning "technique of dress and ornament", from κοσμητικός (kosmētikos), "skilled in ordering or arranging"and that from κόσμος (kosmos), meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".

9. The first archeological evidence of cosmetics comes from the hollowed out tombs of the Ancient Egyptian pharaohs.Archaeological evidence of cosmetics dates at least from ancient Egypt and Greece.

10. early major developments include:
Castor oil used by ancient Egypt as a protective balm.
Skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater, described by Romans.
Vaseline and lanolin in the nineteenth century.
Nivea in 1911.

11. One of the most popular Traditional Chinese Medicines is the fungus Tremella fuciformis; used as a beauty product by women in China and Japan. The fungus reportedly increases moisture retention in the skin and prevents senile degradation of micro-blood vessels in the skin, reducing wrinkles and smoothing fine lines.
Other anti-ageing effects come from increasing the presence of superoxide dismutase in the brain and liver; it is an enzyme that acts as a potent antioxidant throughout the body, particularly in the skin

12. Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history
Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.
Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers,who have more recently been joined online by established outlets, including the major department stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers.
Although modern make-up has been traditionally used mainly by women, an increasing number of males are gradually using cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial features. Concealer is commonly used by self-conscious men. Cosmetics brands release cosmetic products especially tailored for men, and men are increasingly using such products.

13. Nivea is a global skin- and body-care brand that is owned by the German company Beiersdorf.
The company was founded on March 28, 1882, by pharmacist Carl Paul Beiersdorf. In 1900, the new owner Oskar Troplowitz developed a water-in-oil emulsion as a skin cream with Eucerit, the first stable emulsion of its kind. This was the basis for Eucerin and later, Nivea. Nivea comes from the Latin word niveus/nivea/niveum, meaning 'snow-white'.
During the 1930s, Beiersdorf began producing such products as tanning oils, shaving creams, shampoo and facial toners. The trademark "Nivea" was expropriated in many countries following World War II. Beiersdorf completed buying back the confiscated trademark rights in During the 1980s, the Nivea brand expanded into a wider global market.

14. Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt).
The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by
Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor.
These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.

15. Matter Anything that occupies space; exist in 3 forms: Solids Liquids
Gasses
Liquid
Gas

16. Organic Matter Matter that is now living or was alive at one time.
Ex. - Plants and animals
Plants and Mulch Humans Animals

17. Inorganic Matter
Matter that is NOT alive or has never been alive; does not contain carbon.
Ex. – rocks, water, minerals
Rock – Granite Water Mineral - Quartz

18. Elements that make up hair
# Element Symbol Form 6 Carbon C Solid 8 Oxygen O Gas 1 Hydrogen H Gas 7 Nitrogen N Gas 16 Sulfur S Solid

19. Amino Acids Compounds of C,O,H,N 22 Common amino acids
Join together in chains to make proteins

20. Protein Hair is made up of protein called keratin
Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals
Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids.

21. Potential Hydrogen Abbreviation – pH
Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

22. Neutral
Equal number of hydrogen and hydroxide ions. 7.0 Ex. Water

23. Alkaline
7.01 – 14 on pH scale
Ex. Amonia and Hair
Relaxer

24. Testing pH pH Nitrazine Paper

25. pH Meter

26. Acid Balanced pH is in the same range as skin and hair 4.5 – 5.5
Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo

27. pH Scale Conditioners & Shampoo Hair & Skin 4.5 to 5.5 Baby Shampoo
Hair relaxers
Soap

28. The Regulation of Cosmetics
Food Law

29. Definition
Included in this definition are products such as skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product

30. Cosmetic Regulation
is only able to regulate cosmetics after products are released to the marketplace
No cosmetic products or cosmetic ingredients are reviewed or approved by institutions before they are sold to the public

31. Animal Testing
Law does not specifically mandate animal testing for cosmetic safety
strongly urges cosmetic manufacturers to conduct whatever tests are appropriate to establish that their cosmetics are safe
believes that the use of animals remains necessary to ensure the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products.

32. cannot require companies to do safety testing of their cosmetic products before marketing
If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated, the product's label must read:
WARNING: The safety of this product has not been determined."

33. Cosmetic Recalls
is not permitted to require recalls of cosmetics but does monitor companies that conduct a product recall
If wishes to remove a cosmetic product from the market, it must first prove in a court of law that the product may be injurious to users, improperly labeled, or otherwise violates the law

34. Labeling Cosmetics
Regulations require ingredients to be listed on product labels in descending order by quantity
Based on the amount used, an ingredient such as water is usually found at the beginning of the product's ingredient listing
Color additives and fragrances, used in small amounts, are normally seen at the end of the ingredient listing.

35. Labeling Cosmetics
Cosmetic ingredient declaration regulations apply only to retail products intended for home use
Products used exclusively by beauticians in beauty salons and labeled “For Professional Use Only”
Cosmetic samples are required to include the ingredient declaration. Must state the distributor, list the content's quantity, and include all necessary warning statements.

36. Cosemeceuticals
Products that are cosmetics but are also intended to treat or prevent disease, or affect the structure or functions of the human body
Considered to be drugs and must comply with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of the law
Flouride toothpaste, hormone creams, sun tanning preparations, antiperspirants that are also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos.

37. Summary
does not pre-approve cosmetic products or ingredients, with the important exception of color additives
Cosmetic firms are responsible for marketing safe, properly labeled products; using no prohibited ingredients; and adhering to limits on restricted ingredients
Considered good practice to follow industry safety guidelines and recommendations.