1. PM235 Cosmetics in Daily Life
Deodorants and Antiperspirants
Assoc.Prof.Jinda Wangboonskul, Ph.D.
February, 2017

2. Objectives To know the causes of body odor.
To know the difference between deodorants and antiperspirants products.
To know the risks that may be caused by deodorants and antiperspirants products.

3. Sweat (Perspiration)
Sweating secreted by the glands on the body surface. It is a thermoregulation mechanism due to evaporate of sweat from the skin surface has a cooling effect. Sweat is also a way to eliminate waste from the body.
Sweat can be stimulated by the autonomic nervous system e.g. scared, excited and nervous.

4. Type of sweat glands
Eccrine glands are the major sweat glands distributed over much of the human body, found the highest density in palms and soles. Eccrine glands are composed of a straight and coiled portion deep in the dermis and opens directly on the surface of the skin through the sweat pore.  Mostly of the sweat is water and trace amounts of minerals, sodium, potassium, chloride, lactic acid, urea, ammonia, and some exogenous organic compounds . There are two situations in which the nerves will stimulate the sweat glands, causing perspiration: during physical heat and during emotional stress. In general, emotionally induced sweating is restricted to palms, soles, armpits, and sometimes the forehead, while physical heat-induced sweating occurs throughout the body. Sweat typically is odorless and found at moderately acidic to neutral pH levels.

5. Type of sweat glands
Apocrine glands composed of a coiled secretory portion located at the junction of the dermis and subcutaneous fat, are found only in certain locations of the body: the armpits, nipples, ear canal, eyelids, nostril and some parts of the external genitalia. These glands start to secrete after puberty. They secretes an odorless oily fluid with protein, lipids and steroids. Apocrine sweat glands are involved in emotional sweating in humans: anxiety, stress, fear, sexual stimulation and pain.

6. Causes of body odor
Perspiration
Hormones
Foods
Drugs

7. Causes of body odor (perspiration)
Perspiration is largely odorless until it is fermented by bacteria (particular corynobacteria) that grow in hot and humid environments particular the human underarm. When adult armpits are washed with alkaline pH soap, raising the skin pH, Many bacteria grow in this elevated pH environment, this makes the skin susceptible to bacterial colonization. The bacteria also feed on the sweat from the apocrine glands and on dead skin and hair cells, releasing trans-3- Methyl-2-hexenoic acid which is the cause of body odor. Function of the underarm hair is keeping the skin dry to reduce bacterial colonization, however, the axillary hair also makes the odor, as secretions, debris, keratin, and bacteria accumulate on the hairs.

8. Causes of body odor (perspiration)

9. Causes of body odor (foods)
Alcohol, cigarette, tobacco, coffee
Red meat: The amino acids in red meat leave a residue in the intestines during digestion. Intestinal enzymes break down that residue, which then mixes with bacteria on the skin during perspiration and intensifies the odor.
Spices: e.g. garlic, onions or piping hot curries, can lead to excessive sulfur in the food intake, which will be eliminated through skin's pores and breath.
Broccoli, cabbage, asparagus and cauliflower: Contain high sulfur.

10. Causes of body odor (foods)
Fish: Containing choline and carnitine can contribute to trimethylaminuria, or “fishy odor syndrome”
Junk food: They are high in hydrogenated oil, sugar, flour, salt and so on. When consume in excess, it takes longer than healthier food to get digested and will accumulate of fatty cells inside the body which is the reason of bad odor.
Low carbohydrates: A diet which does not contain carbohydrates and contain excess of protein foods. This process release of chemical called “ketones” in the bloodstream which lead to unwanted smell.
Dairy products: Excess consumption of dairy products can lead to release of hydrogen sulfide and methyl mercaptan in the body which can get a bad smell.

11. The difference between antiperspirants and deodorants
Antiperspirants are classified and regulated as OTC- drug by the US-FDA. They applied topically to reduce production of underarms sweat by affecting sweat glands. Antiperspirant is primarily complexes of aluminum (e.g. aluminum chlorohydrate) and aluminum zirconium (e.g. aluminum tetrachlorohydrex-GLY).
Mechanism of antiperspirant: Aluminium-based complexes react with the electrolytes in the sweat to form a gel plug in the duct of the sweat gland. The plugs prevent the gland from excreting liquid and are removed over time by the natural removing of the skin. The metal salts work in another way to prevent sweat from reaching the surface of the skin: the aluminium salts interact with the keratin fibrils in the sweat ducts and form a physical plug that prevents sweat from reaching the skin’s surface. Aluminium salts also have a slight astringent effect on the pores; causing them to contract, further preventing sweat from reaching the surface of the skin. The blockage of a large number of sweat glands reduces the amount of sweat produced in the underarms, though this may vary from person to person.

12. Mechanism of antiperspirant

13. The difference between antiperspirants and deodorants
Deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics by the US-FDA. They are designed to minimize underarm odor, not to reduce or eliminate perspiration. Deodorants do not typically contain any aluminum-type salt complexes. They are often alcohol-based. Although alcohol initially stimulates sweating, but it may also temporarily kill bacteria. Other active ingredients in deodorants include sodium stearate, sodium chloride and stearyl alcohol. Deodorants can be formulated with antimicrobial such as triclosan that slow bacterial growth or with metal chelating compounds such as EDTA. Deodorants may contain perfume or natural essential oils intended to mask the odor of perspiration.
Mechanism of deodorants: Neutralization or counteracting through the retardation of the odor development or the reduction in perception of odor through masking of the odor.

14. History of deodorant
“Natural deodorant crystal" is over-the-counter products containing the chemical potassium alum (potash alum or potassium aluminium sulfate), have gained popularity as an alternative health product. It is sold in crystal form. Unlike aluminium salts used in antiperspirants, alum does not prohibit sweating; it only helps control the growth of bacteria and also has astringent effect. It has been used as a deodorant throughout history in Thailand, the Far East, Mexico and other countries.
“Mum” is the first commercial deodorant, was introduced and patented in the late nineteenth century by an inventor, Edna Murphey. The product was briefly withdrawn from the market in the U.S., but is currently available at U.S. retailers under the brand Ban. The modern formulation of the antiperspirant was patented by Jules Monstenier in 1941. 

15. Deodorants and Antiperspirants products

16. Deodorants and Antiperspirants products

17. Risk of using deodorants and antiperspirants
Risk-benefit is minimal due to low incident of adverse effect, but it could be:
Skin irritation, often cause from alcohol, when apply on broken skin.
Skin sensitization, mostly causes from fragrance or the metallic components.
Breast cancer: The rumors suggest that antiperspirants prevent a person from sweating out toxins and this helps the spread of cancer-causing toxins via the lump nodes, however, there is no existing scientific or medical evidence linking the use of underarm products to development of breast cancer.
Alzheimer disease: There is still no scientific correlation on the cause and effect relationship for contracting Alzheimer disease.

18. Risk of using deodorants and antiperspirants
Sympathetic nervous system can go wrong due to antiperspirants affect the complex biologic mechanism of perspiration, resulting in either excessive perspiration (hyperhidrosis) or little or no perspiration (anhidrosis).
Renal dysfunction: Small amounts of aluminium can be absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract and through the skin. The warning is to people with renal dysfunction that the daily use of antiperspirant products may take a higher risk because of exposure to aluminium.
Aerosol burns and frostbite: If aerosol deodorant is held close to the skin for long enough, it can cause an aerosol burn, a form of frostbite. In controlled tests, spray deodorants have been shown to cause temperature drops of over 60 °C in a short period of time
Clothing: Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-GLY, a common antiperspirant, can react with sweat to create yellow stains on clothing.

19. Category of antiperspirants products
Country
Category of antiperspirants products
USA
Over the counter drug, OTC drug. (medicine sold directly to a consumer without a prescription from a healthcare professional.)
Japan
Quasi drug. (products that have minimal to moderate pharmacological activity but are restricted in use to specific indications.) EU
Cosmetics.
Canada
Drug sold without a prescription.
Thai
Controlled cosmetics.

20. Quality control of the products
Safety test
Efficacy test
1. irritation potential
(for skin and eyes)
1. The visualization technique
2. contact sensitization
1.1 Iodine and powder starch; counting the dark spots.
3. photodermatitis
1.2 Silicone polymer film; counting number of holes.
4. toxicity
(ingested and inhaled.)
2. Infrared gas sensors; detect moisture loss.
3. Gravimetric techniques; measure the amount of sweat collected on cotton balls.

21. Method of Analysis of some ingredients in deodorant and antiperspirant (AOAC 2000)
Aluminium and Zinc: Gravimetric method; react with 8-hydroxyquinoline, weight the precipitate.
Zirconium: Colorimetric method; react with sodium alizarin sulfonate solution, measure at wavelength 525 nm.
Boric acid: Ion exchange method; separate by ion exchange column then titrate with 0.1M NaOH.
Chlorides: Gravimetric method; react with silver nitrate.
Sulfates: Gravimetric method; react with barium chloride.

22. Method of Analysis of some ingredients in deodorant and antiperspirant (AOAC 2000)
Hexachlorophene: Spectrophotometric method; liquid-liquid extraction with CHCl3 then separate with Celite 545, measure at wavelength 297 nm.
Methenamine: Titrimetric method; reflux and titrate with iodine.
Phenolsulfonates: Spectrophotometric method; extract the interfering compounds with CHCl3, measure the aqueous layer at 253 nm.
Urea: Titrimetric method; reflux then add NaOH and back titrate with H2SO4

23. References
Zoe Diana Draelos. Cosmetic Dermatology Products and Procedures 2nd Edition. 2015, Wiley-Blackwell, UK.
AOAC Official Methods of Analysis (2000).