1. Cosmetics
Lecture 9

2. Antiprespirants and Deodorants

3. The causes of underarm malodor Antiperspirants Deodorants
Overview
The causes of underarm malodor
Antiperspirants
Deodorants
Comparison between antiperspirants and deodorants
Disorders of sweat glands

4. Overview
 An average person has about 3-4 million sweat glands in the body that are responsible for secreting perspiration.
These can be classified into two types: Eccrine glands and Apocrine glands.
Eccrine Glands — These glands are the source for most perspiration.
They secrete salts and water that reach the skin through coiled ducts or tubes when the nervous system senses the body heat.
These glands are responsible for controlling the body temperature.
The sweat produced by these glands is high in salt content

5. Apocrine Glands — These glands secrete sweat through the hair follicles and are present in large numbers in armpits.
The sweat secreted by these glands contains organic substance (fatty substance).
The fatty substances provide a growth medium for bacteria living on the skin. These bacteria interact with lipids, converting them into compounds that have a characteristic sweat odour.
Isovaleric acid, for example is one chemical compound that gives sweat its smell.
Thus, it can be assumed that the apocrine glands are more responsible for the armpit body odour

6. Sweat glands

7. Difference between eccrine and apocrine sweat glands
Features
Eccrine glands
Apocrine glands
Distribution
Through out the body
Only in limited areas like axilla and umbilicus
Opening
Exterior through sweat pore
Into hair follicle
Secretion
Clear and salty watery
Thick and milky
Regulation of body temperature
Play important role in regulating body temp.
Do not play any role in regulating body temp.

8. Causes of armpit Odour
Sweating is the main cause for body odour as it contains organic substances and the bacteria present on the skin surface start breaking these down into acids.
Overactive bacteria present in the underarms causes the odour.
Poor hygienic habits result in foul smelling armpits.
Stress and anxiety, at times, result in underarm odour since the body sweats profusely in case of stress.
Diseases like kidney or liver illness and diabetes are also among armpit odour causes.
Liver patients smell like ammonia in case of armpit odour while diabetics smell similar to a nail polish.

9. Perspiration is a physiological function assisting in the regulation of body temperature
Perspiration results in:
A) Wetness (Hidrosis),(it is due to eccrine glands)
B) Body odour ( it is due to apocrine glands)
Wetness and body malodour are normal but not accepted socially and culturally
Personal hygiene and the use of antiperspirants and deodorants must be considered

10. Antiperspirants Definition Mechanism of action History Formulation
Quality control
Regulatory status
Labeling of antiperspirants
Safety

11. Antiperspirants مضادات التعرق
Definition “A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of perspiration (sweat) at that site”

12. Mechanism of action of Antiperspirants
the mechanism of action is physical rather than pharmacological.
how does an antiperspirant work?
When an antiperspirant is applied to the skin surface, its active ingredients – usually aluminium salts – dissolve in the sweat or moisture on the skin surface of the armpit.
The dissolved substance forms a gel, which creates a small temporary ‘plug’ near the top of the sweat gland, significantly reducing the amount of sweat that is secreted to the skin surface.
Bathing and washing will remove the antiperspirant gel. Re- application of antiperspirants can be beneficial to help reduce sweating and keep fresh throughout the day. 
 Antiperspirants reduce underarm sweating but they do not impact on the natural ability of the body to control its temperature (thermoregulation).

14. History
Early antiperspirants were pastes that were applied to the underarm area;
The first such product to be trademarked in the United States was Mum in It was a waxy cream that was difficult to apply.
A few years later, Everdry, the first antiperspirant to use aluminum chloride was developed.
Within 15 years, a variety of products were marketed in a number of different forms including creams, roll-ons, and powders.

15. In the early 1960s, Gillette introduced Right Guard, the first aerosol antiperspirant.
Aerosols became a popular way to dispense antiperspirants because they allowed the user to apply without having to touch the underarm area.
As the popularity of aerosols decreased, antiperspirants in stick form became increasingly popular. Today, sticks are the most popular antiperspirant form.

16. Formulation of antiperspirant sticks
Antiperspirant sticks consist of
The active drug ingredients that control perspiration;
Gelling agents that form the stick matrix; and
Other ingredients, such as fragrance or colorants, that make the product aesthetically pleasing.

17. Active ingredients
The FDA publishes an Over the Counter (OTC) Drug monograph that lists which ingredients are approved for use.
The ingredients on this list are limited to:
- natural antimicrobial agents: aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminum dichlorhydrate
- aluminum chloride (must be non aerosol) and
- aluminum zirconium complexes.
of these compounds, the most commonly used is aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine.
Most of these materials are supplied as powders, and they are typically used at levels of 8-25% based on the weight of the finished product.

18. Alcohol
Alcohol is an ingredient present in some roll-ons, aerosols and gels.
The active ingredients of antiperspirants and deodorants are often dissolved in alcohol because it dries quickly once applied to the skin and gives an immediate sense of coolness.

19. Gelling agents
The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a solid stick.
Common examples include
- stearyl alcohol
- cetyl alcohol
- hydrogenated castor oil, and - glyceryl stearate.
These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as cyclomethicone,
In addition, talc, starches, or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and to give the product a dry feel.

20. Other ingredients
Fragrance and colorants may be added to the formula to improve its odour or appearance.
Some additives as calcium pantothenate may be added,
Calcium pantothenate in antiperspirants is claimed to soothe irritated skin and to promote wound healing, which often occurs with underarm shaving.

21. Quality Control Safety testing Efficacy testing Safety testing
Evaluation of irritation
Evaluation of contact sensitization
Evaluation of photodermatitis
Evaluation of toxicity
Safety testing
A product must reduce the amount of perspiration by at least 20% to allow a product to be labeled as an antiperspirant
Efficacy testing
Safety testing
Efficacy testing

22.   The regulatory status of antiperspirants is somewhat different in various regions of the world market place.
United States
In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as an over- the-counter (OTC) drug product and therefore subject to regulations by the FDA.
European Union
In the European Common Market antiperspirants are considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore subject to the European Cosmetics Directive.
Regulatory Status

23. Labeling of Antiperspirants
For products that demonstrate the minimum standard of 20% sweat reduction over a 24-hour period the label may state either
“all day protection,”
“lasts all day,”
“lasts 24 hours,” or

24. For products that demonstrate extra effectiveness of 30% sweat reduction the label may state “extra effective.”
“24-hour extra effective protection,”
“all day extra effective protection,”
“extra effective protection lasts 24 hours,”

25. The product label must also contain the following items listed under “Warnings:”
“Do not use on broken skin.”
“Stop use if rash or irritation occurs.”
“Ask a doctor before use if you have kidney disease.”
If the product is aerosolized:“When using this product keep away from face and mouth to avoid breathing it.”
The label must also contain the following under the heading of “Directions”
“Apply to underarms only”

26. Safety of Aluminium
A small percentage of people are allergic to aluminium and may experience contact dermatitis when exposed to aluminium containing antiperspirants.
The use of aluminium-containing antiperspirants has been linked with the systemic accumulation of aluminium which increases the risk of Alzheimer’s disease

27. Clothing
Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, a common antiperspirant, is a cause of "armpit stains" on clothing, reacting with sweat to create yellow stains.

28. Deodorants Definition Function Formulation Regulation of deodorants
Product forms

29. Deodorants Definition
Deodorants are substances applied to the body to eliminate body odour caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration.

30. Function of Deodorants
Deodorants provide only malodour control.
They either
Mask body odour with perfumes, or
Absorb perspiration or
Inhibit the activity of gram + ve bacteria, which cause body malodour.
Perfumes that combine antimicrobial properties with masking effects have an obvious advantage but most essential oils that perform such a dual function have too strong an odour themselves.

31. Formulation of deodorants
Deodorants can be formulated with antimicrobials such as triclosan, that slow bacterial growth.
Deodorants may contain perfume fragrances or natural essential oils intended to mask the odour of perspiration.

32. Why choose a deodorant over an antiperspirant?
Deodorants work by neutralizing the smell of the sweat and by antiseptic action against bacteria.
Deodorants are preferable because they don’t interfere with sweating, a natural cooling process.

33. Note
Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of axillary odour, can also claim to be a deodorant.
However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odour and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant.

34. Regulation of deodorants
Deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics in Europe and by the (FDA).
N.B.
In Europe both antiperspirants and deodorants are considered cosmetics.

35. Comparison between antiperspirants and deodorants
Antiperspirants, prevent odour and reduce sweat produced by parts of the body.
Deodorants are substances applied to the body to eliminate body odour caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration.
Antiperspirants are typically applied to the underarm, while deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of body sprays.
Antiperspirants are classified as drugs by the FDA. Deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics by the FDA.

36. Product forms of deodorants and antiperspirants
Aerosol sprays
Roll-ons
Gels
Sticks
Creams

37. Disorders of sweat glands
Hyperhidrosis
Anhidrosis
Prickly heat

38. Hyperhidrosis Hyperhidrosis is defined as excessive sweating.
It is caused by an over-activity of the sweat producing glands.
The profusion of sweat may be in the axillae, the palms, the feet, the face, on the trunk, or a combination of any or all of the above body parts.
The excessive sweat is beyond the person’s physiological requirement to regulate the body’s temperature.

39. Hyperhidrosis can have severe physiological consequences such as
Cold hands,
Dehydration, and
Skin infections secondary to maceration of the skin.
Hyperhidrosis can also have devastating emotional effects on one’s individual life.

40. Axillary hyperhidrosis
Axillary hyperhidros is is the medical term for excessive armpit sweat.

41. Medical approaches to hyperhidrosis
All the currently marketed OTC antiperspirant products are labeled to be used only in the axilla and are not approved for any other body location.
For a person with axillary hyperhidrosis, the first line of treatment would be to try an extra-strength antiperspirant

42. There are prescription drug solutions available for those who seek medical treatment for their condition.
These prescription products usually contain aluminum chloride concentrations greater than those which have been established as safe and effective in the final OTC antiperspirant monograph.
These higher concentration products are usually recommended to be used at bedtime to allow for maximum absorption at a time when sweating may be at a minimum for the day.

43. Iontophoresis: a device which passes direct electricity through the skin using tap water
Oral medications: from the group of medications known as anticholinergics, which reduce sweating
Botox : approved in the U.S. by the FDA for treating excessive axillary sweating