INTRODUCTION TO CERAMICS CERAMICS AND SCULPTURE COURSE EPHS

Clay Clay is formed by the decomposition of rock through the action of weathering. Impurities, such as sticks and leaves are taken out and the clay is then packaged for our use. If interested, you can dig up and purify your own clay: http://www.ehow.com/video_4946364_using-natural-clay-pottery.html

DO NOT LEAVE THE BAG OF CLAY OPEN!!!!!!!!!! WRAP UP THE BAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WRONG! NO, NO, AND NO! CORRECT! YES, YES, AND YES!

Or Mrs. Kuni will get you and your little dog too!

Wedging Kneading the clay with fingers and the heel of the hands in a rocking spiral motion, forces out trapped air pockets and helps to distribute moisture evenly throughout the clay.

DO NOT POKE HOLES IN A BAG OF CLAY!

Do cover clay with a plastic bag to keep it from drying out Do cover clay with a plastic bag to keep it from drying out.  This applies to works in progress and moist clay. A damp paper towel should be added to the bag if the project will not be touched for two days or more.

Do put your name on the bottom of each piece or you will not receive a grade!

Keep your area clean while you are working and after you are finished. Gather any clay scraps off the floor and clean with water and a sponge. Clay dust can be harmful if you are exposed to it for long periods of time, so you must use a damp sponge to clean areas.

Do hollow out sculptural forms and put needle holes from the bottom so air can escape. Trapped air can cause clay to explode. Hollowed out forms dry quicker. Any piece NOT hollowed out will not be fired.

Ask BEFORE using any Glazes.

Glaze a piece only after it has been fired once (bisqueware). You cannot put glaze on a Greenware piece.

Do wash the clay dust from your piece by running it under water Do wash the clay dust from your piece by running it under water. Wash the bisque piece before you glaze it.

Use only the brushes that are especially for glazes. MAKE sure they are washed dried and put away after each use! ALL GLAZE BRUSHES MUST BE WASHED OUT VERY THOUGHTLY!

Do use only “Food Safe” glazes on pieces you plan to eat from, at least on the inside of the piece. Clear glaze is always food safe. Most glazes are marked, if you are unsure ASK!

Shake the jar first then stir after opening it with the handle of the glaze brush. Wipe the handle clean with your fingers back into the jar.

Do wipe the rim of the jar and the inside of the lid to prevent it from sticking later when finished using.

Brush glaze on in three thin coats. You only need two coats of clear glaze. Fill the brush with a good amount of glaze and brush it on very quickly. It will dry very fast.

DO NOT GLAZE THE BOTTOM OF YOUR PIECE LEAVE A ¼ INCH UNGLAZED RIM AROUND THE BOTTOM.

Attaching clay

Do use the score and slip method to attach clay to clay Do use the score and slip method to attach clay to clay. This must be done in the moist and/or leather hard stages.

SCORING SCORING is the best way of attaching one piece of clay to another. If clay is not properly scored, it will fall apart either when drying or during the firing process.

SLIP SLIP is liquefied clay. Slip is applied to scored surfaces and acts as a sort of “glue” onto attach one piece of clay to another.

Three Methods… All Ancient… Hand building Three Methods… All Ancient…

PINCH POTS PINCH POTS are formed by quickly pinching and turning a kneaded ball of clay. One of the most simple hand building techniques.

COILING COILING is an ancient hand building method in which walls are constructed with and rolled, rope-like pieces of clay. The joints are then smoothed over to create one solid piece.

SLAB ROLLLING Hand Rolled Here. Use of Slats Important! Slab construction is another rand building technique, in which the clay is rolled out onto flat pieces. The slabs are usually an even, consistent thickness and are then cut, scored, slipped and joined together. Best at the LEATHERHARD stage.

STAGES OF CLAY

Slip: Watered down clay in muddy form.

Plastic Workable wet stage; molding stage; can recycle. At this point, it can still be joined to other pieces.

Leather-Hard Stiff and will hold its shape; can still be joined to other pieces. May be carved into. Can still be recycled.

Greenware Bone-dry; can be carved into; VERY FRAGILE. Can still recycle. Kiln ready.

Bisqueware Fired once in the kiln. CAN NOT BE RECYCLED. Glazing/Surface Treatment Stage.

Result of a second firing. Completed if item is glazed. Glazeware Result of a second firing. Completed if item is glazed.

KILN Furnace used for “firing” greenware/glazed bisqueware. In order to become permanent, clay must be fired at very high temperatures in a kiln. We fire anywhere from 1800-2400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Your First Clay Assignment:Obejctive After seeing each technique modeled by the teacher, you will create a small pot utilizing each of the three outlined handbuilding techniques. (PINCH, COIL, SLAB)

IMPORTANT to REMEMBER!! The Ten Golden Rules of Ceramics Clay must be thoroughly covered up with a plastic bag to keep it from drying out.  This applies to works in progress and moist clay. Clay dust can be harmful if you are exposed to it for long periods of time, so keep your area clean, clay scraps off the floor and clean with water and a sponge. Clay can be no thicker then your thumb. In order for clay to stick together it MUST be scored and slipped together while the clay is moist or leather hard. Wedge clay to remove air bubbles, achieve uniform consistency, and to line up the particles of clay. Trapped air can cause clay to explode.  So hollow out sculptural forms and put needle holes from the bottom so air can escape. Don't glaze the bottom of a piece.  Always wash the piece before glazing. Always handle your project with two hands at all times.  In other words BE CAREFUL it’s your hard work. Never lift pots by the rim. NEVER HANDLE ANOTHER PERSONS WORK EVEN IF IT LOOKS COOL!