Selecting Patterns, Fabrics, and Notions Chapter 62

While fewer people are sewing their own clothing today, many more are discovering the great savings advantage of sewing their own home decorations. At Simplicity, home-decorations and craft patterns make up 25 % of all pattern sales. At House of Fabric, a nationwide chain, 30% focus on home décor.

Pattern Is a set of written directions and printed paper pieces that show you how to put a garment together

First paper pattern was developed by Ebenezer Butterick, a Massachusetts tailor. His wife used pattern to make his shirts, etc and the neighbors wanted to buy them. In 1865, Buttericks’ mail order pattern business was international.

Taking Measurements Have someone else help measure yourself Stand straight and tall Pull tape snugly Re-measure for accuracy See page 598 Figure 62.1

**cloth tape measure can stretch, so double check against yardstick Pattern catalogs = book in fabric store that shows all patterns available from one company. Figure types =size categories determined by height and body proportions

Sizes Misses Girls Men’s Teen boys Well-proportioned figure-5’5” to 5’6” Girls Petite figure—5’1” or shorter Men’s 5’10” or taller Teen boys Still growing

Back Views

Notions MISSES’ GOWNS: Lined, slightly flared gown, floor length, close fitting at bust, has empire waist and back zipper; dress A has contrast bodice, sheer overskirt and extra long sleeves with angled hem, tacked together along overarm with purchased beads and tassels; dress B has spaghetti straps, sheer front drape, sash and off-the-shoulder sleeves with angled hem. NOTIONS: Thread; Dress A - 22" Zipper, Two Beaded Tassels, Twelve 6mm Beads or Twelve 1/4" Decorative Buttons, Hooks and Eyes; Dress B - 18" Zipper, Hooks and Eyes. SUGGESTED FABRICS: Dress A, B - Peau de soie • Shantung • Taffeta; Contrast 1A, Contrast B - Chiffon; Contrast 2A - Brocade • Beaded Fabrics; Underlining/Lining - Lining Fabric. Additional Fabric may be needed to match stripes, plaids or one-way design fabric.*With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

Figure types described on page 599 are vague Figure types described on page 599 are vague. The designations small, medium, and large are even more so. What sized or shaped people might have trouble placing themselves among those figure types?

Selecting Patterns Grouped according to styles Sportswear, dresses, pajamas Based on sewing skills

2 choose sewing skill levels View variation on the pattern design 1. choose style 2 choose sewing skill levels

Using Pattern Envelope Found in large drawers at store Cannot be exchanged or returned

Information on Envelope Front Shows drawings and photographs that are in catalog Find figure type, size of pattern, pattern number & price Back Garment descriptions Sketch of each pattern view Measurements of finished garment

Other information on Envelope Notions you might need How much fabric you need Types of fabric that are appropriate for your garment Notions=smaller supplies needed to complete a project, such as thread and zippers

Multi-sized Patterns Pattern that has 3 or more separate cutting lines for 3 or more patterns sizes on each pattern piece

Traditional pattern making is a time-consuming task. The designer’s sketches are redrawn into various views using different fabrics The garment is sewn and modeled to check for appearance and fit.

A master pattern is created and converted into various sizes. Sketches or photographs for the pattern catalog are made and fabric layouts developed. Today manufacturers save time by using computer-aided design (CAD) for many of these steps.

Selecting Fabrics Go by pattern directions What fabric is appropriate Personal style = bold or soft fabrics/colors Look and feel = consider color, texture Seasonal wear = not wool for summer attire Fabric care = hand washing/ironing, easy-care fabrics

Sewing difficulty = some fabrics are easier to sew on Match design and stripes, etc

Checking for Quality Does the fabric wrinkle? Knit fabrics stretch and return to normal shape How much fabric? Check the chart on the back of the pattern

Selecting Notions Threads, zippers, buttons, elastic, trimmings In 1893, Whitcomb L. Judson debuted the slide fastener. This was the forerunner of today’s zipper, with at least one significant difference, it ran sideways, across the opening. Sales were low because it opened under stress and sometimes tore the garment.

Choosing Thread All purpose Cotton-wrapped polyester thread is best for sheer, lightweight, and medium-weight fabrics made of manufactured fibers and blends.

Threads, cont…. Mercerized cotton is best for such fabrics made from natural fibers. Heavy-weight fabrics or either kind need heavy-duty cotton and cotton-polyester thread.

Estimating Cost How much is the fabric? How much is the pattern? Add up notions….

Advantage of sewing instead of buying clothes is that pattern sizes are standard, ready-to-wear clothing sizes are not. One clothing manufacturer’s size 8 dress might be larger or smaller than another dress maker’s.

Activity Have students take each others measurements. Look at a pattern and make a shopping list of things you might need.