n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves
Crest, trough, wavelength Wave Height (H) Wave Steepness Period (T)
A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength Sea vs. swell What determines wave height?
Waves in water depth less than 1/20 of wavelength Often associated with surf zone Variety of surf depends on shape of bottom ◦ Plunging ◦ Spilling ◦ Surging
spilling plunging surging
Deep water wave ◦ Speed = 1.56T Shallow water wave ◦ Speed = 3.1 times square root of water depth
Bending of wave crests Waves approach beach at angle One part of crest reaches shallow water first and slows down Waves become more parallel to shore
Wave Refraction
note distribution of wave energy most of energy strikes headlands causes erosion of headland, deposition in bays coastal straightening occurs
disturbance of ocean floor speed greater than 700 km/hr wavelength greater than 200 km crests can exceed 30 m as reach shore