COASTS.

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Presentation transcript:

COASTS

Theme Overview COASTS PROCESSES COASTAL LANDFORMS MANAGEMENT

Objectives define terms associated with coasts describe the relationship between wave energy and fetch explain how swash and backwash is formed. describe the characteristics of constructive and destructive waves.

Define: Coast It refers to a zone where land meets and interacts with the sea.

AGENT 1 WAVES

Define: Waves Waves: refers to a rising and falling movement of the water surface. It is produced by winds blowing across the ocean or sea.

R/Ship: Erosion & Waves The extent of erosion depends on the energy of the waves. Factors affecting wave energy Wind Energy Fetch

Factor: Wave Energy Wind Energy The greater the difference in pressure, greater the wind speed. The greater the wind speed, larger the waves and greater the extent of erosion.

Factor: Wave Energy Fetch This refers to distance over which wind blow across open water to form waves. The longer the fetch, the larger the waves and greater the extent of erosion.

Types of Waves Swash Backwash

Waves approach the coast Shallow sea bed causes friction Friction causes loss of energy Waves (back) pushes waves (front) Waves (front) forced to rise Waves collapse and breaks SWASH!!!

DEFINITION: SWASH This refers to the forward movement of a wave onto the beach. Swash brings materials to the beach. Hence it is also known as constructive waves.

Swash moves up the coast Wave energy is gradually lost Gravity pulls the wave back Waves move back into the sea BACKWASH!!!

DEFINITION: BACKWASH This refers to the backward movement of waves into the sea. This causes the removal of materials from the beach. Hence it is also known as destructive waves.

Constructive Vs Destructive Waves

DESTRUCTIVE WAVES Large, high waves Common on steep coastal slope Plunging over when breaking More powerful backswash than swash Erodes coasts

CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES Small, low waves Common on gentle coastal slope Spilling over when breaking Builds coast up by deposition