Global Wave Height Wave height is a measure of the vertical distance between the lowest point of the wave (the wave trough), and the highest point of the wave (the wave crest). Wind blowing over the ocean’s surface creates waves. The speed of the wind, the amount of time it blows, and how far it blows over the water impacts the size of the waves. Photo By: Brocken Inaglory

Scientists use models to predict wave height with data collected by buoys. The weather buoy pictured below is 18 feet tall, 9 feet wide, and 3,500 pounds. It measures wind speed, water and air temperature, barometric pressure, and wave height and period. Ocean currents, the coastline, and the shape of the seafloor are other important factors used to predict wave height with models. Image credit: U.S. Coast Guard

Wave forecasts help ships plan safe routes. ~90% of world trade is carried by sea. A ship’s design determines the height of waves it can travel in. Image credit: Corey Seeman The Chinese cargo ship pictured below is transporting goods to the U.S.