You will learn about: Matter pH Scale Chemistry of Cosmetics

Why Chemistry? The professional cosmetologist needs to understand the chemicals he/she works with in order to: - safely perform chemical services requested by clients, - teach clients how to care for their hair following chemical services, - and, sell products to their clients.

Elements that make up hair # Element Symbol Form 6 Carbon C Solid 8 Oxygen O Gas 1 Hydrogen H Gas 7 Nitrogen N Gas 16 Sulfur S Solid

Chemical Bonds Atoms combine chemically to create compounds that eventually create protein of hair.

Amino Acids Compounds of C,O,H,N 22 Common amino acids Join together in chains to make proteins

Protein Hair is made up of protein called keratin Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids.

Hydrogen Bond Unlike charges attract. Makes up about 35% of hairs strength. Individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has many negative electrons.

Salt Bonds This bond is a result of the attraction of unlike charges. Also broken by water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping.

How Hydrogen and Salt Bonds are Broken by Water Water molecules can easily break hydrogen and salt bonds when the water molecules move in between the bonds. When the water molecules are not present the hydrogen and bonds come back together. H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H Hydrogen Bonds broken by water molecules

Disulfide Bonds Sulfur containing side bond - Most important to a Cosmetologist. A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains to form disulfide bonds. Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change. Example – permanent wave

End Bonds (Peptide Bonds) Backbone of all protein molecules Links the amino acid protein chains together end to end. Do not disturb the end bond, this could destroy the protein structure. If broken, protein chains separate into small fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids that no longer have the characteristics of hair. RESULT – VERY DAMAGED HAIR!

Side Bonds Link the long spiraling protein chains together. Made up of hydrogen, salt and disulfide and Van der Waal’s forces. Label the Bonds Van der Waal’s

Hair Shaft

Cuticle Layer

Close Look at the Cuticle Layer

The pH Scale In this section you will learn what the pH scale is and it’s values associated with water, acids and alkalines. Conditioners & Shampoo Hair relaxers Soap Hair

Potential Hydrogen Abbreviation – pH Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

Water-Based Solutions pH measures amount of acid or alkali only in a water based solution. Only solutions containing water or solutions that can be dissolved in water can be acid or alkaline in value. Most products used in salon have water listed as main ingredient.

More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions Acid More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions

Acid 0 – 6.99 on pH scale Skin and hair acid-balanced at 4.5 – 5.5 Ex. Lemons and Conditioners

Neutral Equal number of hydrogen and hydroxide ions. 7.0 Ex. Water

Alkaline More negative hydroxide ions than hydrogen ions.

Alkaline 7.01 – 14 on pH scale Ex. Amonia and Hair Relaxer

pH Scale Unit of measurement – determines if substance is acid, neutral or alkaline. Ranges from 0 – 14 7 is Neutral

0 – 6.99 Acid range (orange) More positive hydrogen ions

7.01 - 14 Alkaline range (purple) More negative hydroxide ions

Acid Balanced pH is in the same range as skin and hair 4.5 – 5.5 Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo

Emulsions 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a binder (gum). Example: oil in water (perms) Example: water in oil (cold cream)

Soaps Mixtures of fat and oil converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified.

Shampoo Cleans the scalp and hair Removes all foreign debris without adversely affecting scalp and hair.

How Shampoo Works A push pull action is caused by a surface active agent causing the oil to “roll up” into droplets that are lifted and rinsed away.

Has water loving and oil loving ends. Surfactant Surface active agent Has water loving and oil loving ends. Surfactant Molecule Oil Loving Water Loving

The tail of the shampoo molecule is attracted to oil and dirt

Shampoo causes oil to roll up into small globules

During rinsing, the heads of the shampoo molecules attach to water molecules and cause debris to roll off.

Thorough rinsing washes away debris & excess shampoo.

The Role of Water Universal solvent Neutral pH Hard water = minerals Hard to lather Soft water preferred (allows lather)

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Types of Shampoos

All Purpose Low Alkaline Low surfactants Mild, does not strip color Example: Redken Clear Moisture

Plain Usually strong High alkaline Not for chemically treated hair Follow with acid rinse Ex: Baby shampoo Doesn’t burn eyes because it’s high in alkaline and so are eyes.

Soapless Shampoo Able to lather without harsh alkaline ingredient Works in soft and hard water

Acid - Balanced Made to have same pH as the skin and hair Will not strip color

Medicated Often must have prescription Designed to treat scalp and hair problems

Clarifying Removes residue Such as product build-up.

Anti-Dandruff Control dandruff Massage scalp vigorously and rinse thoroughly

Liquid Dry Used when client can’t receive normal shampoo Works with wigs Evaporates from hair Very drying

Powder Dry For bedridden clients Orris root powder absorbs oil and dirt as product is brushed through the hair. Don’t use prior to chemical service.

Conditioning Contain animal, vegetable or mineral additives that enter cortex or coat cuticle. Improve strength and porosity.

Color Contain temporary color molecules that stick to outer cuticle of hair.

For Thinning Hair Gentle Lighter molecular weight Provides healthy environment for hair growth.

Rinses and Conditioners

Rinses and Conditioners give hair the appearance of Shine and Luster

Porosity - Amount of moisture in the hair. Hair Porosity is the ability of the hair to retain & absorb moisture, determined by how raised or compact the cuticle layers are.

Porosity Test

How easily a comb passes through the hair. Manageability How easily a comb passes through the hair.

Elasticity The hairs ability to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking.

Types of Rinses

Vinegar and Lemon Rinse Acid rinses Remove soap scum Counteract alkalinity.

Cream Rinse Soften Add luster Only slightly acidic

Control dandruff and minor scalp conditions. Medicated Rinse Control dandruff and minor scalp conditions.

Conditioners

Instant Conditioner Coat the hair shaft Restore moisture and oils Do NOT penetrate into the cortex Not for fine limp hair

Normalizing Contain vegetable protein Acidic pH causes cuticle to close after chemical services.

Body-Building Required for fine, limp hair Deposits protein Can use prior to chemical services

Moisturizing Humectants bind and hold moisture in the hair. Avoid use for several days following perm (may go limp)

Customized Formulated to meet special needs Ex. Moisture and color

Shampoo Web

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