Shampoos & Hair Conditioners

Definition A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (surface- active materials) in suitable form liquid, solid, or powder which when used under the conditions specified will remove surface grease, dirt and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp, or health of the user.

History These were developed in the 1930s, became widely used in markets by the mid-1940s and appeared in a shampoo format during the 1950s.

Shampoo Characteristics It should remove surface soil, dust, excessive sebum, skin particles and residues of lotions and dressing. It should produce good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user. Should be removed easily by rinsing and leave hair soft and manageable. Give a pleasant fragrance to the hair. It should not cause any side‐effects/irritation to skin or eyes.

Types of shampoos Powder Shampoo (dry shampoo) Aerosol Shampoo (dry shampoo) Liquid Shampoo Lotion Shampoo Cream Shampoo Jelly Shampoo

Types of shampoos SpecializedShampoo ConditioningShampoo Anti‐dandruff Shampoo Baby Shampoo 2 in 1 Shampoo Medicated

Powder shampoo Simple admixture of diluents with soap powder. Sodium carbonate, bicarbonate, sodium phosphate or borax are suitable diluents. They can be used with henna or chamomile to give products which are supposed to give slight coloring effects to the hair.

Example Rx: Hanna powder 50 Borax 150 Sodium carbonate 250 Potassium carbonate 50 Soap powder 500 1000

Aerosol Shampoo (dry shampoo) They are made from powders with adsorbent properties such as talc or starch. They are useful for use when it's inconvenient to use water, it Absorbs oil from dry, unwashed hair

Liquid shampoos Frequently based on potassium soap because of its greater solubility. liquid shampoos are also made from sulfonated oils. Mineral oils may be added to these formulations. Since the oil does not readily rinse out, it remains as a dressing to the hair.

Example Rx: Coconut diethanolamide (92%) 5% Water 38.4 Triethanolamine alkyl benzene sulfonate (60%) 13 Sodium lauryl sulfate (30%) 30 Potassium soap (20%) 12.5 Phosphate buffer salt 0.5 Preservative 0.2 Perfume q.s

Cream or lotion shampoos Liquid cream or lotion shampoos are prepared either from fatty alcohol sulphate pastes, or from clear liquid detergents by mixing with a stabilizer and suitable opacifying agent.

Example Fatty alcohol sulphate paste 500 Sodium chloride 3 Water 497 Rx: Fatty alcohol sulphate paste 500 Sodium chloride 3 Water 497 1000

Jelly and gel shampoo Stiff, non-pourable clear gels to be squeezed from a tube can be produced by increasing a shampoo's viscosity. This type of shampoo cannot be spilled

2 in 1 shampoo It is 2 ingredients added to a regular shampoo, a silicone and a suspending agent. Silicones is the primary conditioning agents in 2-in- 1 conditioning shampoos. Conditioning from 2-in-1 shampoos is expected to occur primarily at the rinsing stage,when the shampoo emulsion breaks, releasing the silicone for deposition on hair. The silicon most frequently used in 2-in-1 shampoos is dimethicone. The suspending agent is usually Glycol Distearate

Baby shampoo Shampoo for infants and young children should be less irritating and usually less prone to produce a stinging if they get into the eyes. Baby shampoo usually has a pH of 6 to 7 and ideally should contain only mild tensides, e.g., mixtures of nonionics and amphoteric substances.

Shampoo Ingredients The following list classifies the materials of shampoo formulation: Main detergents. Foam booster and stabilizers. Opacifying or clarifying agents Viscosity modifiers Conditioning agents. Preservative Fragrance Color Sequestering agents.

Main detergents Shampoos on the market are based on sulphated fatty alcohols known commercially as lauryl or alkyl sulphates. These may include monohydric alcohols of chain length C10 – C18. The properties of these detergents depends upon the chain lengths of fatty alcohol used.

Main detergents Alkyl sulphates based on : Short chain (8 - 10 carbon atoms):irritant. Medium chains (12-14 carbon atoms):non- irritant, have good storage properties and give most acceptable type of leather at normal temperature. long chains (16-18 carbon atoms): have poor cold storage properties and give less foam at normal temperature but effective at 70 ̊C or higher.

Main detergents The properties of a sulphated fatty alcohol are also influence by cation present. Sodium alkyl sulphate: has more degreasing action than the ammonium or triethanolamine compound. Only used as the base of compositions for the treatment of greasy hair. Triethanolamine alkyl sulphate: mild cleansing, good storage stability.

Main detergents Ammonium alkyl sulphate: mild cleansing, high solidifying point. It's usually used in blended compounds such as ammonium-monoethanolamine and ammonium-triethanolamine alkyl sulphates. Have good foaming and cleansing properties and leave hair manageable. The sodium salts of sulphated lauryl alcohol ether: liquids of different viscosities and give profuse and stable foam. The viscosity easily adjusted and controlled by the addition of a predetermined amount of sodium chloride or any other suitable electrolyte.

Foam stabilizer When added to a formulation increase the Quality, Volume, Stability of the lather. The principle foam builders are the fatty acid alkanolamides such as: Lauroyle diethanolamide Lauroyl monoethanolamide.

Opacifying Agents Opacification of shampoos usually for sales reasons An occasionally useful technique to use when the product can’t be made completely clear Examples: Propylene glycol Cetyle and stearyl alcohol

Clarifying Agents Example of this agents: Butyl alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol.

Sequestering Agents The prevention of lime soap formation and aid rinsing in hard water There are 2 considerations mainly the formation of insoluble calcium or magnesium soaps when the shampoo is mixed with hard water, and the precipitation of lime soap film on the hair when the shampooed hair is rinsed with hard water. Tween improve the cleansing action of soaps and their lime soap dispersion. EDTA is frequently used since it prevents the formation of calcium, magnesium and iron soaps which may cause turbidity.

Viscosity modifier To increase viscosity thickening agent is used Synthetic gums such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose but can form films on the hair. To avoid films on the hair use alkylolamides or glycerol stearates. Ethanol, polyoxyalkylene are used to reduce viscosity.

Preservatives Butyl hydroxybenzoate. Ethanol, methyl,propyl. Methyl paraben.

Other ingredients Reducing agents: protect the product from discoloration or order deterioration due to oxidation. Sunscreens: such as benzophenone. Suspending agents: where solid particles are suspended in a liquid. PH control agents. Colors

Dandruff shampoos

Dandruff shampoos Dandruff or scurf is the dry form of seborrhea capitis as seborrhea sicca in which the epidermis is shed in dry flaky scales. Generally due to : Dry skin. Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis): one of the most frequent causes of dandruff, is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky white or yellow scales.

Dandruff shampoos Not shampooing often enough. If you don't regularly wash your hair, oils and skin cells from your scalp can build up, causing dandruff. Psoriasis. This skin disorder causes an accumulation of dead skin cells that form thick, silvery scales. Eczema. Sensitivity to hair care products (contact dermatitis): especially paraphenylene diamine (PPD). A yeast-like fungus (malassezia). Malassezia lives on the scalps of most healthy adults without causing problems. But sometimes it grows out of control, feeding on the oils secreted by your hair follicles.

Active materials Bithionol: bactericidal and fungicidal. . effected at a concentration of 1 to 1.5%. Ketoconazole, miconazole, Selenium Sulphide, Zinc Pyrithione.

Hair Conditioners

Hair conditioners The primary purpose of a hair conditioner is to reduce the magnitude of the forces associated with combing or brushing of the hair. Benefits of hair conditioner: It causes the hair to feel softer and more moisturized. It reduce flyaway hair It makes the hair more manageable and easier to comb increase in hair shine

Conditioners key ingredients Cationic surfactants quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are the most widely used eg. stearalkonium chloride. positive charge on the bind to negative sites on the hair surface forming hydrophobic coating that render the hair softer and easier to comb and reduce static charge

Conditioners key ingredients Lipophilic Conditioners Fatty acohol sush as cetyl and stearyl alcohols are added to boost the conditioning effects of the quaternary compounds Other lipids found in conditioners include glycol distearate, triglycerides, fatty esters, waxes of triglycerides, liquid paraffin, etc.

Conditioners key ingredients Polymers quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose polymer and copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone improved wet combing and reduced static charge. Silicones the most widely used silicones is dimethicone. Some silicones are soluble in water and therefore may not be as effective in rinse-off products It forms a hydrophobic film that render the hair smooth, soft without greasiness.

Evaluation of Shampoos

Evaluation of Shampoos Important areas for evaluation: Performance properties. Product characteristics.

Performance characteristics Foam and foam stability: The Ross-Miles foam column test is a method for measuring foam height and stability. In this test, 200ml of a surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50ml of the same solution. Foam generated is measured immediately and again after specified time interval.

Performance characteristics Detergency and cleaning action. Barnet and power method is used: 5gm of soiled human hair is placed at 35ºC in 200 cc water + 1 gm shampoo the flask is shaken 50 times/min for 4 mins. Then washed dried and weighed. The amount of soil removed is calculated Rinsing Conditioning action. Microbiological assay Evaluation of eye irritancy Viscosity

Product characteristics. Fragrance Color. Consistency. Package

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